Taurus :: 2000 - Rear Hatch Electrical Malfunctioning?
Sep 23, 2015
I was given a Taurus wagon a 2000, Taurus wagon and it has some electrical problems.
The rear hatch is a mess, the center tail light left, right hatch brake lights and backup lights, and automatic lock all seem to be out.
I pulled the two panels off the pillars and the first connection inside the car look nice and connected. inside the hatch it appears as if all wires are connected.
is there a central point where all of these lights and locks meet that can be disconnected.
Everything else in the car seems to work.
oops forgot rear speakers are not working either.
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So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
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I'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
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I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE four-door sedan, which I purchased new. In May 2008, at 39,556 miles I had to replace the alternator. In January 2011, at 45,201 miles (+5,645 miles) I had to replace the alternator again. Now, in December 2013 at 49,630 miles (+4,429 miles) I have to replace the alternator for the third time. It just doesn’t make since that the less I drive, the more often I have to replace the alternator. The replacement alternators were remanufactured and not purchased from a Nissan dealer. Do you know what would be causing the alternators to fail? Do you think purchasing a new alternator from Nissan dealer would solve the problem?
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Well, I am approaching 80k miles and the ride in my 04 GX470 had gotten very bouncy. So I had a mechanic friend run a diagnostic check and the right rear sensor was malfunctioning. My friend recommended to replace both rear sensors but my wife is "frugal" so we only replaced the malfunctioning unit. Well a month or two later we are back to the bumpy ride. I haven't had my friend check it out yet but I'm guessing either the other sensor or both are malfunctioning now. Now I don't want to get into a fix part "a" of suspension and part "b" malfunctions soon after.
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Both left and right tail lights don't work but brake lights and reverse work fine. Fuses look good and bulbs are fine. Could it be related to the 'circuit board' type housing that the bulbs are in? If it is, are they in series meaning if one goes bad the other side won't work either?
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My 1996 Taurus has 202,000 miles on it. One day a while back I was headed home from work. I had the AC on and fan on HIGH. I all of a sudden started smelling something hot. I threw my sunglasses into the passenger seat and saw a gray haze in my interior and slammed on the brakes and pulled over thinking my car was on fire. I got out quickly and looked under the car and then under the hood. I then followed the HOT ELECTRICAL smell to passenger side floorboard under dash. Blower motor part so I changed it. The weather got cool again so i didn't need AC for a couple of weeks. Now, ANYTIME I try to put the fan on HIGH I get that hot electrical smell. The fan has 4 settings, on the first three it's fine, but as soon as you put it on high it smells very hot. My AC isn't as cold as it used to be but it was like that before the fan motor gave trouble. I think I just need to charge the system. Why my fan motor gets/smells hot on high setting. No fuses has blown. I definitely don't want to burn this motor up. I got new fan motor that has the same electrical connection so I didn't have to splice anything. Is something overloading??
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Car has been having a myriad of problems that seem to be related to the electrical system. First warning sign that something was wrong was the car wouldn't start up immediately after turning the car off. We had to wait between 5 and 20 minutes before the car would start up again. It was also revving up briefly at idle. Brought it into the mechanic, they replaced the power steering pump. We told them about the issues with turning the car on, they said they didn't see anything.
Car worked fine for a couple of weeks, then when we were driving a longer distance (more than an hour drive) the tire pressure alert light went on. We were close to our destination, so we drove and parked, and the tire pressure was a little low. We were asked to move the car to a different spot in this lot, and it wouldn't turn on. When we came back to the car (this was after flying out of down for four days) the car started up fine, and we filled the tires with air.
Next time we went on a longer drive, the tire pressure alert light went on again, but we checked the pressure and the tires were fine. This light turning on issue has continued, without seeming to be related to the tires actually losing pressure at all.
A couple of other problems that may be related. One, the car completely stalled out once at an intersection, and the battery warning light went on. I turned the car off, waited 60 seconds, then turned it on again and drove home just fine. Also, the right turn signal is flashing at double speed on the dashboard, but there aren't any issues with the headlights or taillights themselves that would cause the light to flash at double speed. The left turn signal and the light on the dash flash normally.
I'm worried that this may be indicative of a larger problem in the electrical system, and since the mechanic told us the first time that they didn't see any issues I wanted to get a second opinion before I brought the car in again. I also don't really have a lot of money to spend, so I need to know if this is a critical issue or just something I can ignore until I get a new car early next year.
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I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
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Car started losing electrical power on the way home from work last week. Dim lights, blower stopped, wipers stop, almost stalled out when getting off the interstate. Barely made it home. 30 minutes later went out to troubleshoot and it started right up. Ran for about 2 minutes and stalled out from lack of electricity. Put voltmeter to alternator and it seemed to only be putting out 8.5v. Took to store to have tested. Replaced alternator and it didn't work. Reman alternator still seemed to only be putting out 8.5v or so.
Checked fuses and cleaned battery terminal and verified good block ground and good body ground. Still having problem. 1996 Taurus. What next? Battery is exactly 2 yrs old and was putting out 11.6 when the problem first started last week. Due to cold and this existing issue, battery is only at 6.5v right now. Can jump the car, but then after removing jumper cables car dies in 30 seconds. Should I have the battery tested? What else could/should I be looking at?
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While the owner of 2 Ford Trucks, I also have a 2004 Ford Taurus with 28K on it. For a while now the vehicle is hard starting, cranks but acts like it is not getting fuel, however, I can hear the pump come on. Other times it starts right up, but a clicking sound can be heard coming from the firewall area. At times the gauges will not immediately respond when the Vehicle is started and then all at once they will begin to work. Now, my check engine light is on, but my hand held obd will not read it. All the terminal pins look great, obd tester works on my other two vehicles, cigar lighter working, the fuses i checked are good. Vehicle runs great. Can this all be related to a bad module?
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This is a simple post: Rear hatch won't open from outside; latch seems to be toasted. It can be released from inside, and will open then, as you imagine this is very inconvenient.
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Having problem with the rear hatch on their 2007 2.0T Wagon rear hatch opening by itself? I have had it happen twice now, once in the garage and this am I woke up and it was open in the driveway.
I also seem to be having an issue with the passenger window when I close it, it sometimes gets to the top and then starts to go down again.
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How the rear hatch opens up fully with a click on the remote, but closing it is another matter. Manual says to grab the handle inside and swing down but I can't seem to close it without having to push down on the outer hatch. Is there a trick ???
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The problem: dead battery, hatch is locked (although 4 doors unlocked), little plastic cover at base of hatch removed, reached inside, but try as I may I am unable to unlatch hatch. How/what to do to manipulate mechanism. Also looking for instructions on how to jump-start engine from engine compartment.
Notes: My owners manual resides with spare tire for safe keeping and is therefore unavailable. Perhaps too safe! What was Toyota thinking to leave doors unlocked when battery dies, but to lock (default mode?) the rear hatch and deny easy access to the battery? I believe it was unlocked when I parked the car.
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I just picked up a 2000 GTI VR6 and it's got a few issues but what's bugging me the most is the hatch won't open, I've tried everything I can think of but no luck. what should I do next?
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So I bought a 2005 accent a while back, and one thing that's been bothering me is the hatch light won't turn on. It's not an issue with the bulb, and I'm not sure how to fix this.
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Actually its inconsistent. Many times with the car running and in park, I jump out to access the rear hatch. Sometimes it will open and sometimes it will not. When it doesn't open, I have to turn off the car and then the hatch opens.
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I tried to open my rear hatch yesterday, and it was a bit sticky. I think the plastic was just weak (cold & uv exposure?)
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04 V8 Touareg. The switch for both the fuel hatch and rear hatch dont work. They worked the other day. I checked all the fuses and everything looks good there. I had disassemble the right rear interior panel to remove the CD changer to get at the manual release lever for the fuel hatch.
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