Taurus :: 2000 Ford - Heavy Jerking After Being Driven For About 5 Minutes
Jul 11, 2012
I have a 2000 Ford Taurus SES that jerks heavily after being driven for about 5 mins. She starts right up, idles well, runs well in the beginning but then suddenly will start jerking when pressing on the accelerator. I'll pull to the side, put the car on neutral and rev the engine a little to see if any hesitation - NONE. Then once I put it in drive again and step on the gas, it feels like the tranny or something is jerking and about to fall off. If I park it and turn the car off for a while, then return to it, start it and drive it, it'll run fine for a few minutes and then the problem will start again.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
I recently took my 1990 Ford Taurus to a garage. Driving it is unpleasant, or more accurately, steering it. Something going on in the steering wheel. Odd internal movements. The garage said there were worn parts. They replaced the rack and pinion, both outer tie rod ends, the subframe bushings, and the subframe itself. Still has the same problems. But, the steering itself is stable. I do not understand this. I took it on the Interstate, got it up to 75mph. Removed my hands from the wheel and car continued travelling in a straight line requiring only very slight pressure at intervals to correct for small drift - and that was despite high wind gusts.
So, what is with the sensation in the steering wheel? It feels like it is jerking at intervals. No noise associated. End result is that I do steering correction that isn't always needed.
What is going on? I don't drive this car much, but it used to handle very nicely. Certainly got a big enough repair bill that didn't seem to address the problem.
View 4 Replies
This issue has been stumping the mechanics. My wife's HHR has 113,000 miles on it and has been trouble free up to now. The last two months it will suddenly not want to start after being driven for 20 - 30 minutes and then sitting for an hour to 75 minutes. It turns over but won't start. Even more strange if you then wait for a full hour it will start right up. Mechanics are stumped as they cannot duplicate the problem.
View 3 Replies
Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
View 6 Replies
We own a 2010 Honda CRV and at 25,000 miles the TPMS light started coming on every time the car was driven for thirty minutes on the highway. It has been to the dealership four times now and it is still not fixed. They first relearned the system and then they replaced the component that the sensors communicate with and the light continued to come on every time. They then replaced all four sensors as well as the radio. The light still came on again after thirty minutes into a long drive at high speed. The air conditioner panel was swapped with another and problem still not solved. They replaced two more brand new sensors on rear tires for new ones because the rear tires still showed faulty sensors.
For some reason they decided to take the tires off and replace with tires from another CRV they had on their lot which had alloy wheels and not steel and they test drove it and claimed the TPMS light did not come on. This was a waste of time because they just put the original tires back on anyway. Every time the car was taken in they claimed they fixed it and test drove it to make sure. After four visits to the dealership and the last time they had it for over a week, the car is not fixed and the TPMS light still comes on.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1997 Ford Taurus LX v6 DOHC. The car has almost 150000 miles. After driving the car for about 30 - 45 mins, I turn it off. About 20 mins later, I go to turn on the car and it has trouble starting and stay running. I turn the key to start it and it begins to sputter and then cuts off. When this happens, the RPM goes up and down and never gets to 700 - 800 RPM. After waiting for about 10 mins, the car finally starts but I have to push on the gas pedal to get it started and kept running. Once started, it runs fine. The car has enough gas, the fuel pump kicks on, and the oil level is full.
View 1 Replies
I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 engine dohc about 150000 miles..when i start the car about 5 mins the car dies..so i start it back up then it dies again.. So I start it back up then i keep my foot on gas the car stays running as soon i take my foot off gas it dies. I did have a new fuel pump in..
View 12 Replies
I have a 1996 ford taurus lx 3.0 v6 dohc.. Every time I start the car up it rev up to about 1500 rpm then goes back down to 800 rpm then goes back up..i will do that for about 5 minutes till car warms up some..here is what i replace so far..new coil''new plugs and wires.tps''maf'iacv.pcv'.. I clean throttle body out good..new air filter..and there is no check engine light..i did take it to 5 mechanic shop and they can't fine anything wrong with car ...
View 19 Replies
I own an old 95 Ford Taurus and have been having problems with it over heating. We have replaced head gaskets, there was a small crack got that repaired. We also replaced the radiator cap. I just replaced the whole radiator. Has new radiator hose too. The needle reaches all the way to the top line right before reaching the red zone within like 5-10 minutes of driving. It will eventually go back down but maybe just to between the o and r the gauge is vertical. I don't know what else it could be and can't afford to get another car at the moment. When i get home the reservoir is full and radiator is hot. After maybe 15-20 minutes of having the car shut off the water is sucked back in to the radiator.
View 13 Replies
My 2009 Sonata 2.4L GLS is jerking at around 20mph when I slow down for the first 10 minutes that I start driving. I have taken it to the dealership 2 times. The first time, they updated the computer module for the transmission, however the problem was still there afterwards. The next time, I did a transmission fluid flush and fill, but yet I still have the same jerking problem.
View 12 Replies
A few months ago, my van started jerking after about 45 minutes on the freeway. When it started jerking, the check engine light came on and the windshield wipers would come on just once. If I ignored it and kept driving, the jerking would become more frequent and violent until I pulled off the road and turned the car off, then back on. After turning it back on, everything would be normal again, sometimes until I finished my commute to work, sometimes it happened every 5-10 miles. Never any problem in town.
A few weeks later, and in addition to the previous stuff, when driving in town, the windshield wipers would come on just once when braking. That would happen a few times a day, with no check engine light and no other issues. Now, when you hit the brakes, in addition to the wipers coming on, sometimes the RPMs will drop until the engine dies. Today, it died 4 times in 10 minutes.
I've changed the very corroded ground strap from the block to the firewall, cleaned up the battery posts and cable connectors (dirty, but no corrosion), checked for corrosion in the wiring harness underneath the battery and I'm not finding anything.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
View 6 Replies
I have a bucking and jerking 6.0 right now. It will buck and then won't go above 2000 rpm or it will lurch or if I hold the pedal down lose power unless I drop it below 2000rpm. If I put the pedal down the truck wont go above 2000 rpm and will go up on speed. the erg was deleted but its trowing crazy amount of white smoke from the exhaust. When the truck starts up some white smoke comes out but eventually clears up when you keep it under 2000 rpm.
When on idle you can step down the pedal and hear the truck failing on revs like an injector issue but i checked and they arent the problem. the problem got fixed for a couple of weeks when i changed the Y pipe because the other was ruptured but the problem came back and its even worse now i can use the truck for nothing.
View 6 Replies
I just bought this car from a estate has a hundred and ten thousand miles. I'm a postal the mechanic that works mail trucks and have not worked on any issues like this before.
After driving when I park it in the garage. it sounds like it's hot but there is no smell there is a sound every few seconds until something cools down. at least I think this is what the noise is. dual overhead cam engine.
View 7 Replies
Recently my car has been sputtering a bit after I start it. It starts fine, but it sputters like it is going to run out of gas, but it's always at least 1/2 full.
To get it to stop I have had to pull over, turn it off, and restart it after a few minutes of running, then I haven't noticed anything again until the next morning when I start it again.
One time it turned off by itself when I stopped it and put it in park.
If at all possible we'd like to repair it ourselves, but we are not sure what could be wrong.
Our thoughts are: clogging/clogged fuel filter or spark plug issues. What could be causing this sputtering?
Again, it is not constant, as after restarting I continue to drive almost 60 miles to work, then back home in the evening with no issues yet. It has stopped once, but never while moving.
View 3 Replies
2000 Ford Taurus left outside mirror with electrical adjustment has come loose. How does one get it tight?How much should this cost for parts? How difficult is the work? What tools does one need? What would be a reliable $$ wag be to have a dealer/independent shop do the work?
View 1 Replies
I am wondering why my 2000 Ford Taurus experiences gas line freeze on a handful of occasions each winter, when our other vehicles never have this problem during our winters. It doesn't get extremely cold here, I live 50 mi south of Indianapolis, IN. Last winter I had this problem on a few occasions, and basically just waited for the temp to warm up above freezing, and the car started. Now it has happened again this year, with temps down in the high teens/low 20's. Car is parked under a carport at night - my battery is cranking strong, my fuel pump is doing it's humming noise when the key is turned 'on', tank was filled a day or two before this happened, and our other vehicles are starting just fine. We do use Heet in our gas tanks during the winter, but I hadn't gotten around to adding any to my tank before this incident. I have lived in northern Wisconsin and the Chicago area, and never had this happen to my old beaters back in those days....what is the big problem with the Taurus?
View 19 Replies
2000 Ford Taurus w/ 233,000 miles. Yep, it's been good to me, and I've been good to it! However, the romance may be over now. There is a not so pleasing sound of rocks in a rock tumbler when the car is in idle, or in drive waiting at stop lights. Doesn't matter if I just started the vehicle or it's been running awhile. Noise is definitely coming from the engine and not at the rear of the vehicle (just had the muffler replaced - noise was present before and after). I'm also burning through oil. No tell tale puddles under the car though.
View 19 Replies
So, I'm minding my own business pulling out of Starbucks with my gingerbread latte, making a nice and easy right turn when I hear "clunk" ("pop" maybe??). I hear a scraping/whirring sound on deceleration only (once I get past say 30-40 miles per hour). NOT brake related at all, occurs only when I let up on the accelerator. My baby is a 2000 Ford Taurus with 238,000 (yep, you read that right). I'm thinking transmission (and, I really want to be wrong). I've had the transmission flushed every 30,000 miles and serviced at 150,000 per Ford's maintenance schedule. I have taken very good care of my vehicle, but I do put a lot of miles on it every day as I drive 120 miles round trip to work 5 days a week.
View 8 Replies
My 2000 ford Taurus which has 120,543 miles needs an outer tie rod end. I went to sts for an oil change and asked them about an alignment after I did the tie rod and they told me I need to change my struts. If I only change the front struts could I get an alignment or am I going to need to change the rear also? Also, i know I have to get new tires in the front because they are getting bad from the alignment being off so I would have to get tires also.
View 6 Replies
It seems like a sudden transmission, happens JUST a MOMENT after I start to go forward from stopped, like at a light. It might be worse if I did a jackrabbit start, but I don't.
It's a pretty hefty "jerk" and I would think the car is already in first (automatic) but it feels like a crappy shift on a manual trans.
View 3 Replies
