Taurus :: 1999 Shows No Power When Tried To Start
May 13, 2014
Have a 1999 Taurus that has absolutely no power when you try to start. No interior lights no radio no dash lights nothing. This happened a few months ago but the alternator battery and ignition were all bad then. Replaced all those and for 3 months car has been fine. Yesterday stopped at gas station filled up and when i turned key . Nothing! Now if i turn headlights on and wiggle relay box under hood on occasion i can get power back and start the car.
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My 2012 got it's first "500 miles to empty...." DEF alarm yesterday. I added 2.5 gallons and the same alarm keeps showing up each time I start the engine. Is there some kind of other reset required? Do I need to fill the tank up completely to reset it? I'm concerned the engine will shut down after 500 miles even though the DEF tank is about 1/2 full.
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2005 PSD Ex. 4x4.
Drove it a few nights ago and it felt really gutless. Next morning, no start. Well, it tried, but it sounded like it was run out of fuel (had half a tank)and I turned it off. Changed both fuel filters, key on / key off to purge system about 2 dozen times. Still no start.
I have all eight injectors with "injector Circuit Low" code, a P0401 - Exhaust Gas ReCir Flow Insufficient Detected, and P0672 - Glow Plug #2 (which it has had for a few months).
I thought with all of the injectors, it might be the FICM, checked the FICM voltage with Torque during a start and it showed 47V the whole time.
Harness? I did not think running with the glow plug error would be a big deal especially during the summer in So Cal.
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I have a 99 Taurus. Had the car about 2 and a half years. When I bought it the previous owner said he had the transmission rebuilt a year before,(he did have the repair receipt). Some times, not all, after you've you had to accelerate hard (like getting in a highway),or after a long drive, the car starts to shift hard. It also seems to go from first then neutral then second when taking off from a stop. A quick hesitation,rpm's go up a little,then shifts. I can park,turn the car off, sit a few minutes and it goes back to normal shifting. What this issue is? I thought about changing the filter and fluid,but I've known a few people that have done this while having issues, and the transmission went out soon after! I can't afford a rebuild! What to do? What to do?
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I have a 1999 ford taurus (3L,automatic) which I use here on the farm. A fluid leak in the return line from the cooler needed to be repaired last summer now after a couple of months a new problem occurred. When you stop and turn off the engine power steering fluid explodes out the filler cap. The fluid is foamy with air. I replaced the pump with a good used pump, then replaced the rack with a remanufactured unit and checked all the lines. I can't detect any evidence of a leak, (The old rack did appear to leak). I suspect that this is caused by an air leak in the return circuit causing air in the fluid which is compressed until the pump stops then expanding back through the pump into the reservoir.
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On occasion, on the power generation screen, I see just the motor applying power to the wheels. this only lasts about 2-3 seconds and I can't see any pattern to it (speed, going down grade, cold, warm etc). Is this normal?
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My '06 only shows 1 blue bar when I start up. Is this a bad indication as to its' longevity? Got me a little worried......126K on the car.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with a 2010 crate 5.7 hemi in it.
Recently, I would go to start the truck, and it would just crank and not start, and the ETC light would come on. I'm able to cycle the key to off, then start it again when I give it gas. I try to clean the throttle body regularly, but it was clean today when I checked it. Sometimes it will start, and immediately the ETC light will come on, and the engine will miss very badly. If I plug a scanner into the truck when the light comes on, no codes are present. What may be causing this?
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So I'm not new to fixing this car but I'm now stuck. It is not the inhibitor switch, I had that replaced, and the car cranks so it is not the problem. In addition, the "P" shows up on the dash. Since the car cranks, its not the battery, it is showing 12.25V.
I am afraid it is the fuel pump. Looking for the specs for the fuel pump such as resistances/ voltages? Sometimes when it cranks, I believe it ignites for half a second and then dies. Then it cranks with no ignition, then it sounds like its dying, then it ignites every once in a while.
Similar to this: [URL] ..... but without the nastiness at 0:08 where they turn off the car mid crank.
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I tried installing a backup camera today. big mistake. When I start the car the yellow triangle shows up. and warning says check hybrid system. I try and put the car in reverse and I hear a snap, it slips to neutral and a warning appears that says put into P position. The only wire I tapped into was the red reverse light camera. I even tried undoing the install and I get the same messages.
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Went to the market, and my 2010 Prius II with 56K miles won't start.
Display works with the "Hybrid System Warning" message, but nothing else works.
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So I went to Target with my wife yesterday and after about 30 mins of shopping, left the store and tried to start the Ex and will not start. The engine tuned over slowly like the battery did not have enough juice to start the truck. So I had it jumped and it started right up. So I went to autozone and the battery and alternator tested and both and in good working order.
Today it happened again. After stopping at a fast food joint to grab a quick bite, same thing it did not start. But before I started the truck the voltmeter showed about 12.6 volts. When I tried to start it, the engine turned really slow and did not start. By that time the volt meter showed about only 6.5 volts. So trying to start it just drained the battery. I had it jumped and it started right up. Went back to Autozone and had the battery and alternator tested and both are fine.
Once the truck is running, the volt meter shows ~13.5 - 14 v volts. No other electrical issues while driving. What's happening? What should I check for? The battery is about 3 years old. I will charge the battery over night and see what happens tomorrow.
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On 2 occasions in the last week or so my GPS screen says "loading" on power up. It says not to turn power off as a status bar moves across screen. Never happened in the year Ive owned it, until now. A lot of personal settings get reset, including the time zone?
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I have strange electrical problems my 2006 Prius has recently developed.
It started off this past weekend when I went to shut off the vehicle after about a 5 mile drive. The car wouldn't power down, though, regardless of how many times I pressed the Power button. I then noticed that the wheels on the MFD were still turning, despite the car being stopped and in park. I shifted to drive, drove a few feet, shifted to reverse, drove a few feet, then back to park. Same problem. (Note that I was able to shift gears without any problems despite the wheels on the MFD continuing to turn.) I finally ended up leaving the car powered on for about 20 minutes, and when I returned the wheels on the MFD had stopped turning and I was able to successfully shut the car down.
I drove it several times with no problems, but then experienced the same problem again yesterday. Also, I noticed that the bar graph of mpg seems to be showing about half of what the car is actually getting. I was on a long trip, and the car seemed to be getting about its usual 50mpg, but the bar graph consistently showed ~25mpg. The "instant" bar on the far right of the graph was correct, as was the overall average displayed on the other page, but the graph itself was clearly wrong.
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I am working on this 99 Nissan and the issue is that the gauge shows the truck is over heating ,so we changed the thermostat ,the temp sending unit and that other thing next to that,and flushed the coolant system and bleed the system with new antifreeze and fresh water for the correct mixture..The truck still says its over heating ,the top hose hot and the bottom hose not anything more then it is when the truck hasn't been running.The truck starts right up and seems to run very well,then the gauge maxes right out and then wait for it to cool according to the temp gauge and drive a bit more,with in a mile its over heating again according to the gauge..I checked the oil and its perfectly fine and normal !I am so lost here,the radiator is like new and the clutch fan works right ,checked all the hoses and they are not collapsing ,water pump replaced a year ago...
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2005 f350 6.0, parked in my shop and the batteries were dead after 2 weeks on vacation, (I left a few items plugged into 12vdc ports charging) charged it up and started right up. Next day cruising down the road about 75 the wrench icon showed up, strange. I reviewed my scan gauge and only thing not correct was my boost, it was 20lbs plus, idles at 14lbs. dash gauge appears normal.
Next morning I turned on the key, turned on my scan gauge engine is not running and the reading show 14.4lbs on my scan gauge. so..... adding the 14.4 to the scan gauge reading thru the drive cycle. so my computer thinks it is seeing 20-30 boost during acceleration. A bad sensor......... but don't know which one.
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I have replaced the battery, spark plugs and wires and also replaced the starter in the last 8 months. also I have replaced some fuses and the fuel filter and changed the oil. My car won't start sometimes. it cranks but will not turn over. The fuel pressure is good and it sounds like it is firing but it will not start. Sometimes it will start right up after a try or two.
Also wanted to mention that when we replaced the battery less than a month ago, we bought some ethanol for fuel system and bought some starter fluid to put into it. once we did all this, it ran GREAT for about 2 and a half weeks. it started up every time on the first try. Then a few days ago it started doing what it use to do, start when it wanted to and not a minute sooner.
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I have a 1991 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 and when we go to start it, the thing tries to keep starting(turning over). Even after the key is turned off and removed. The starter just keeps going. Have to remove positive battery cable to stop it. While it was doing that the neg wire started to smoke. If I just touch the battery cable back on it tries to start. If it sits for a bit we can hook it back up and it works ok. I just had the starter and the starter solenoid replaced.
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192,852 miles. I pushed down on the wiring harness when reattaching the (now) somewhat shorter "H" hose. Thought this could be a problem, so I then ran the "H" hose UNDER the harness (which seemed better). Any chance I could've broken a wire in the harness? I didn't move it very much at all, but those wires have been drying out for 13 years now. The car started right up afterward repairing the hose, but suddenly stopped after idling for about 5-7 minutes ... then it wouldn't start again for at least 15 minutes when it "caught" and idled for about 1 minute. Hasn't started again since. Besides the usual P0430 and P1131 codes, I noticed two other codes: P1744 and P0340.
Don't know if they just showed up today or if they've been there a while. My guess is it's the latter because I once saw P1744 about 7+ years ago and it was due to the cooling system not cooling the tranny fluid sufficiently (which is what has been happening again lately with the coolant leaking out of the "H" hose ... and the Degas tank before that). Temp gauge has been running past mid-scale at idle ... an indication of low fluid, and I've been filling as needed to prevent overheating until this weekend when I finally installed a new "T" on the "H" hose (it was leaking at the molded "T"). P0340 I saw pop up about a year ago during very cold weather. I wouldn't doubt that the damn magnet on the sensor has once again fallen into the synchro like it did 8+ years ago, but would this cause a no-start condition? I wouldn't think so... The car cranks plenty strong. Just won't "catch" and start. Up until today and the hose job, it had been running fine. Even drove it this morning about 10 miles. Could I have a coincidental fuel pump failure? Seems TOO coincidental, doesn't it?
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My parents' car is a '99 Ford Taurus. The first time they go to start it in the morning, it either won't start or has some trouble starting. If it doesn't start, they can go back out a little later and it starts fine. Either way, once it does start, it runs fine for the rest of the day, and can be started with no trouble at all. Then the next morning the cycle begins again. It's been to the mechanic twice for this problem, but he can find nothing wrong with it. Btw, this problem has been happening in May and June, so cold weather is not responsible, it has been warm.
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My Taurus has developed a problem where it refuses to start. When I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over. I keep trying till the battery starts getting weak. I charge up the battery and then try it again with no luck. A neighbor suggested I get a piece of lumber and gently pound on the gas tank suggesting it might be a stuck fuel pump problem [whatever that means!]. Actually it worked once but after I drove the car all day doing errands the next morning was the same problem. That was three weeks ago.
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