Tacoma :: Cold Engine Start Clicking Noise?
Jan 24, 2016
I replaced my fuel filter on my 2003 2.4L tacoma 2wd. 65k miles. At the same time I checked the valves. No valve adjustment needed. Now I hear 4 to 6 rapid metallic clicks when i start the engine cold. Once it happened when it was warm. This fuel filter is not original equipment.
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I bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
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My 2013 Prius v made a really loud clicking noise this morning when starting the car from a cold start. It was less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The car has about 14K miles in it. Is this normal?
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Start truck cold, getting clicking noise...sounds like valve but runs great. Warms up and clicking goes away. Remove #1 spark plug and it shows build up of whitish carbon. Will remove the other spark plugs and check. Also starting to use half a can of oil a week. No leaks that I can see. Oil pressure gauge shows high...always has. Also, open door and get out after driving and smell oil. Wanted to make it to 400k but might not be able to with this issue.
Going to do a compression check to see what else is happening. Still have decent power. If cylinder pressure is good would it make since to do just a "top end" rebuild (if it is a valve issue? Should i pull it and do a complete rebuild? What does white build up on spark plug usually indicate?
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I have a Toyota Tacoma 4 wheel drive it has a v6 motor. here is whats going on...sometimes it starts just fine,other times i think when it gets cold i try and start it.... it will crank over just fine but does not start, then i turn the key off and try and start it again and it starts just fine,sometimes when its acting up i try starting it and after trying to start it after 3 tries ir runs rough for just a sec or too.
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Our 1997 850GL wagon with 160k miles has persisently noisy valves. At considerable cost, we replaced the hydraulic valve lifters with new ones from Volvo. Noise persists. Increased oil viscosity, now at a ridiculous 15W40. Also using an oil additive to further increase viscosity. Little if any noise when engine is cold but once warm, much valve clicking. We change oil religiously and keep oil topped up.
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The truck has 230,000 miles and has a squeal that sounds like a belt but it's not. I have put the truck in neutral coasted with the engine off and the noise is still there. The noise only happens when the weather is cold and only when the truck is coasting. Under acceleration the sound goes away.
Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2003 (2.7)...
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My truck shows check engine when i drive it cold but after i reset the battery, start and warm it up for few minutes i don't get the error codes
1. It says evaporative emission control system malfunction for the p0440
2. EECS incorrect purge flow for p0441
3. EECS Vent Control Circuit malfunction for p0446
I have 3 error codes and I don't know where to start?
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I have a 2008 FSI engine and I have a chirping noise when I start the car and the engine is cold. The noise goes away when the engine is warmed up. This noise has been like this for a very long time (more than two years) and I was not seriously concerned about this until I found the below video which has exactly the same noise.
The owner in the below video says that the timing belt and the belt tensioner had to be replaced and that his engine was only at 26K miles. I am at 46K miles right now but I definitely had this noise when I was around 20K miles as well.
[URL] .....
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I own a 2006 GS300 for 4 years and I have about 90k miles on it. Just suddenly today when I went to go turn the car on, I hear a rapid loud clicking noise and the engine will not start. I've done some googling and one possible solution is to disconnect the battery to let the car reset and then connect it back. What the cause is? I've replaced the spark plugs a few months ago, but I didn't replace the battery.
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I have used this forum to look up everything I've needed to since I bought my 05 F250 FX4 6.0 brand new. I was pulling our brand new camper in 100* heat. I began to hear a clicking from the truck from the engine compartment that would be right by the turbo. My engine started overheating, but I had no smoke (black or white). The engine cooled down after I was done climbing the hills, but I had feathering from by the air cleaner and the clicking/chirping was still present.
I pulled over to let the truck cool and checked my coolant reservoir. While pulling over, I lost accelerator pedal responsiveness. The turbo was also engaging a lot. I pulled over. Put the truck in park, but left it idling. As I was looking around under the hood, the truck died. I have not been able to start it. (This all happened Saturday). The truck is 20 miles from home, and I've been out tinkering every day. Here is what I know:
1) I have 48 volts to the FICM.
2) I have tried to start it early in the morning and in the evening when temperatures were low.
3) When I crank, I do get oil pressure from the instrument cluster.
4) The oil level is at the correct markings on the dip stick.
5) Using my scanguage II, I have verified an IPR reading of 14.8. As I crank, it goes up to 84.7. My ICP reading is all over the place. It always gets to above 500, yet it with the key off - engine off, I get a reading higher than zero. With the key-on I go from 300 to 500 and to over 1000 with out the think even hinting at starting.
6) I have oil in the oil filter housing.
7) I have fuel in the upper fuel filter housing bowl.
8)The batteries and alternator have all passed load testing.
9)I tried to start the truck with the ICP disconnected, and didn't have any luck.
10) I have no codes set or pending.
I am at a loss. I don't want to start throwing $$ at various parts.
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I just purchased a 2012 CC-R 2.0T Manual. One issue I'm having is during a cold start, the engine makes a very loud noise that doesn't resemble a higher rpm that usually comes with a warm up stage. It sounds like something is grinding, followed by a vacuum/sucking noise. It lasts about 20sec and then idles normally. It only happens during cold start.
[URL] ....
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Dealer over filled the oil and now during cold start ups I am getting a bad noise form the engine that sounds like bad tappets or clanking metal. this does go away after a few seconds. Should I be alarmed?
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What would cause a sputtering noise to come from the engine but only after a cold start meaning starting in the morning and after work but goes away after I drive for a min or two and doesn't come back until the next morning or after work. It sounds almost as if say you had a hole in your flange and drove it around. Its really weird it happens a few times a week for the psst 2 weeks but hasn't happens ever before that. Could it be the water pump in its way out? Oil levels fine fluid wise everything topped off.
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I have a 1999 BMW 3 series, 112K, 5 speed, immaculate condition, only full synthetic oil used. After a cold start - even today at 55 degrees - I get a strange noise from the engine compartment which gets louder according to RPMs. The BMW dealer replaced the oil separator for the motor ventilator and some of the respective hoses and valves associated with it. They also checked the oil pressure when the motor was hot and cold and advised it's fine; however, the noise is still there. (A different BMW dealer service advisor said, just after hearing it, it was an oil pump issue.)
On an unrelated note, when the motor is warm and I'm in stop and go traffic, the idle speed will sometimes go up and down (500 RPM - 900 RPM), and when it reaches 500 or so RPM, it dies. The car always starts back-up right away. Spark plugs are new and I used OEM BMW spark plugs. My thoughts are the idle air control valve.
Otherwise, the car is great; yesterday I took it on a 250 mile RT highway trip without any problems.
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We have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and has a whistling noise when starting up? We are in Wisconsin and its damn cold. It only does it when its cold out. Once the engine warms up it goes away. But my wife is freaking out about it. I am thinking it might be something with the air intake but not sure.
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I have the cold start up noise on my 2AZ-FE Camry. It is from the VVT gear.
I have found the Solenoid on the back side of the engine but can't locate the bolt that has the screen inside it.
Where the VVT oil screen is located on this engine?
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07 Santa Fe 3.3 with 155k miles has lifter noise all the time. Much more pronounced in cold weather upon start up when the engine is cold. These miles are mostly highway and I change oil every 5-6k with Citgo synthetic blend. Is this just normal wear or could the engine be getting gummed up? I was thinking about treating the engine with some Marvel or Rislone but I really don't like putting solvents in my crankcase.
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My Camry 2grfe now has almost 60k miles and it started making a squeaking/dry bearing noise but it goes away after about 2 minutes of running. I was going to replace the serpentine belt when I get a chance, its a tensioner or a pulley bearing? Can the bearings in the tensioner or pulleys be replaced instead?
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There is a loud ticking noise coming from an undetermined location in the engine compartment (sounds more like behind the motor). It starts on cold-start, lasts approximately a minute or so until the engine heats up. Driveability doesn't seem to be affected, and the engine doesn't have any additional weird symptoms. Some other VW owners have suggested changing the cam belt and tensioner to fix this problem, but the car has only just turned 45K miles and can't imagine that it would fail so quickly.
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