My truck shows check engine when i drive it cold but after i reset the battery, start and warm it up for few minutes i don't get the error codes
1. It says evaporative emission control system malfunction for the p0440
2. EECS incorrect purge flow for p0441
3. EECS Vent Control Circuit malfunction for p0446
I have 3 error codes and I don't know where to start?
2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
View 1 RepliesThe 2007 Prius starts and runs fine with no problem. However, the 12v battery check with a multimeter shows 9.9v reading. Does this mean that the 12v Battery is coming to end of life and needs to be replaced.
View 13 RepliesThe truck has 230,000 miles and has a squeal that sounds like a belt but it's not. I have put the truck in neutral coasted with the engine off and the noise is still there. The noise only happens when the weather is cold and only when the truck is coasting. Under acceleration the sound goes away.
Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2003 (2.7)...
I was driving home on the highway, and my 2006 Elantra did the following things in this exact order:
-Heater started to blow out ice cold air
-Temperature gauge rose, dropped down, and then rose right back up to the red area and stayed
-As I was slowing down to pull over, my tachometer dropped to 0rpm
-My "Check Engine" and "Battery" lights came on
-The car completely died and came to a rolling stop on the shoulder
I am trying to find answers as to what has happened to my car.
Auto Zone checked for engine light and said I needed new gas cap. Have driven for over 75 miles and with at least a dozen start-stops with new cap and light is still on. I have a Tacoma 2002. What do I do next
View 9 RepliesMy 4 cylinder Tacoma vibrates a lot when it is idling, especially sitting in "drive" at traffic lights. My regular mechanic has tried various things to remedy it but none has really worked. He suggested the valves may need to be adjusted. Is this plausible? Or is he off-base? And is it really expensive?
View 4 RepliesI replaced my fuel filter on my 2003 2.4L tacoma 2wd. 65k miles. At the same time I checked the valves. No valve adjustment needed. Now I hear 4 to 6 rapid metallic clicks when i start the engine cold. Once it happened when it was warm. This fuel filter is not original equipment.
View 1 RepliesMy 2010 Prius with 72k miles on it. I bought a OBDII scanner and read P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The check engine light comes on for few days, then go away for few weeks and then come back again. It's been doing the exact same thing (Come on for few days and then go away) in last few months. But I do not feel any different in terms of driving.
View 9 RepliesI bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
View 13 Replies2000 Tacoma v6 has has always ran good, but has check engine light code P300 & P306. cly 3 & cly 6 missfire, lean bank 1. Vacuum test showed no problems.
I've changed plugs & wires, switched coils around cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked timing. Ran Seafoam through intake, and gas tank. Check engine light went out for about three miles, then came back on. What else can I do to keep that blinking check engine light off?
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma that has a knock or ticking in cold weather. The problem starts sometimes immediately after I start and other times it is only when I press on the gas in the cold mornings after a few min warm up. The noise goes away after 10 min. The question I am wondering is this:
1: could it be worn piston rings and the pistons are slapping the cylinder wall
2: is it an oil pump problem or a oil restriction issue
3: is it a valve guide issue
4: with the history of the 2.7 having exhaust manifold issues (poor manufacturing) could a cracked manifold be the issue
I change the oil myself, the oil filters have been OEM toyota, the noise has been going on since 60,000 miles, the truck is at 230,000 miles.
My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
View 19 RepliesMy '03 Tacoma Prerunner V6 has 116K miles and recently lit up its Check Engine light, returning a code for a failed up-stream air/fuel sensor. I recently drove across country, using many different fuel formulations ranging from CA gas to midwest ethanol to whatever they put in the gas here in the NY-NJ area (a mystery ingredient that seems to turn motorists irate and confuse their horn as a turn signal.)Anyway- age, or fuel, what killed the sensor? If fuel, will it happen again by time I get back west?
View 2 RepliesI tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
View 19 RepliesMy wife started her 2010 Camry (4 cylinder) this morning and the Oil Pressure, Check Engine, and Check Battery lights were all on.
She turned the car off, waited and started it back on and the same thing.
I rushed our kid to day care and her to work before coming to work myself, I haven't had a chance to check anything.
I replaced the air filter and cabin air filter over the weekend and the oil was changed at the dealer 2 weeks ago.
I have a 2007 with the red triangle & yellow ((!)) on, the symbols return after 1 minute of resetting aux battery", where I should start ?
View 7 RepliesI think the 12v agm battery is starting to go on our 03 prius. It wouldn't start after 4 days no use but did after 2. What is a healthy resetting voltage (with nothing turned on) for this agm battery as I'll check it with a multimeter? What is considered an unhealthy voltage?
View 1 RepliesI just changed out the battery in a separate issue I'm having with the car being dead every time after being left overnight. After changing the battery I had a new problem. The power windows wont work from the drivers side master panel. They worked fine before I changed the battery. There are a million posts online about resetting each window and that's great except for one problem. It doesn't work.
After the battery is unhooked the window switches all blink twice with a long pause. So, I follow the procedure and put the key in the ON position and roll each window down half way (reset and tried it rolling down all the way too) and then roll it back up continuing to hold the window switch in the up position for 1 full second after the window goes all the way up(some methods online variously say to hold it up for 12 seconds or 20 seconds. I tried them all). The blinking light goes out and the auto up/down feature works as expected from that specific window but no dice from the drivers master control.
One other oddity is that the window lock doesn't function anymore. On or off, each window will continue to operate from its own switch.
Maybe I haven't read through user manual carefully enough, but I haven't yet figured out a way to show gears in (Drive mode. Moving into Sports), or manual mode or flip paddle shifter does the job, (Replacing "D" in dashboard is totally fine).
View 2 RepliesI am working on this 99 Nissan and the issue is that the gauge shows the truck is over heating ,so we changed the thermostat ,the temp sending unit and that other thing next to that,and flushed the coolant system and bleed the system with new antifreeze and fresh water for the correct mixture..The truck still says its over heating ,the top hose hot and the bottom hose not anything more then it is when the truck hasn't been running.The truck starts right up and seems to run very well,then the gauge maxes right out and then wait for it to cool according to the temp gauge and drive a bit more,with in a mile its over heating again according to the gauge..I checked the oil and its perfectly fine and normal !I am so lost here,the radiator is like new and the clutch fan works right ,checked all the hoses and they are not collapsing ,water pump replaced a year ago...
View 1 Replies