Tacoma :: Multiple Fuses Would Blow Continually Now Power Windows Won't Work


Dec 5, 2015

On a 2001 tacoma, 6 cyl ext cab. I had an issue where multiple fuses would blow continually. That issue stopped, went away on its own. But now the power windows won't work and that fuse is fine, changed it just to be sure anyways. Dealer tells me it needs an ecu and harness (since you can't buy JUST the ecu).

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Driving home today the truck's radio quit, then the power windows would not work. Dome light would not come on and truck started running poorly. Over a period of ten miles it went from running normal to creeping along just above idle (1200 rpm or so). Then it quit completely. Did not have enough juice to start. Checked battery voltage ~13volts. About an hour after it quit it started and act like nothing was wrong. What do you all think might have caused this?

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Are there any fuses or relays that I could look for besides what the owners manual calls out? Haynes manual is useless w/this problem also. Everything else seems to work fine. Haven't tried the AC or heat, but my gauges, pwr locks and mirrors are all fine. I'm stuck w/the windows down and no tunes.

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The issues are related to the air conditioning and door locks...very very strange. I did a DATC diagnostic and the only code I got was 12 65.

Here is the issue... When the car is started and AC is on, it will blow cold air for a while. While driving, at some points the AC will start to blow hot air and the power windows will not operate...the door locks seem to be making a clicking sound, according to my father.

We have had the dealer check the car and all they did was replace a cooling wall or something for $500+....a complete waste and no fix. We have taken it back to the dealer twice and they cannot isolate the issue.

I did the DATC diagnostic twice this morning and reset the system (cold booted) by pressing the defrost button. Once completed the system rebooted and blew out a puff of air.....I did the diagnostic again and when done hit defrost...same puff of air. Again, the only code it threw out as 12 65 - which I am not sure is valid for this car.

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I have a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L ... After having some problems a week ago with the truck dieing at every stop sign or any time my foot wasn't on the gas. Eventually the truck would not start at all. I finally got a CEL that gave me P3040 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) So I changed out the sensor and the truck fired right up and ran for 3 days.. Now the truck does not start again and I am getting the same CEL code.

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It's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down...

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I am currently having a problem with the power windows on my 2001 Passat V6 4Motion. While driving the windows will barely work, go down or up a few millimeters at a time. This happens on all windows, fronts and rears. The odd thing is when the car is stopped there is no issue. I have replaced the window switch twice, and took out the CCM (Comfort Control Module) to see if it had gotten any water damage/ loose connections.

Here is a video i took earlier today. [URL] .... (apparently embedded videos wont work).

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I've had my 2010 for three years. It has 55K miles, generally is well kept with no problems or accidents. Early on, the windows would not roll down when it was below 40 degrees or so until the car had run for several minutes.

Recently, the windows have become much more cranky. Sometimes they will not roll down at all, sometimes they will not roll up at all, at all temperatures. The problem has always applied to all four windows. I've been careful to make sure the problem was not originating from the window lock. This will be a real problem some rainy day....

The car is a July 2009 production model.

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I have a 2010 Ford Escape. A few months ago, my power windows intermittently failed to work. The problem was most acute on the drivers window, but eventually spread. It's now reached a point where none of the windows work at all - neither from the drivers switches nor from the switch in each door. I replaced the fuse, but that's as far as I've gotten. My question is: what should I check next?

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I bought a 2004 Explorer a couple of years ago and at the time some ot the windows only work some of the time. Then the drivers side fron and rear passenger window stopped working. Now all but the front passenger side stopped working. I've changed the master switch and no change. I know that it is probably a broken wire between the drivers side door and cab but can't understand how the front passenger side would still work if that was the case. If it wasn't grounded or if a wire was broken wouldn't all of the windows stop working? Also the rear passenger power door lock has all of a sudden stopped.....

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So the car doesn't start. The engine doesn't make any noise. The headlights do come on. The dashboard lights that normally come on when you try to start it up (the check engine light, the airbag light etc., also do not come on at any point. I don't recall any particular clicking sounds when I turn the ignition. I do remember hearing these clicking noises (sort of a quick one time click for each key turn) when the car wouldn't start due to battery/alternator issues two months ago.

So I did a bit of research, and I think it's either the starter solenoid or the ignition switch. Am I far off base?

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I removed the fuse panel under the dash and have disassembled it to look for obvious clues, burnt wires/heat damage etc. but everything looks fine. Have pushed all of the fuses in to make sure they were seated properly. No joy.

I recently replaced one of the back windows in my truck and had to detach the rear dome light and I remember one of the wires sparking. Where to start diagnosing this problem?

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