Tacoma :: Code P0770 - Transmission Fault Identification
Jan 16, 2013
I own an '02 Toyota Tacoma v6 3.4L 4-speed automatic. After a 2-hour highway drive (not too common, small town) the other day, I started to experience transmission issues (wouldn't always switch gears properly), and the check engine light came on. My scanner indicated P0770 (Shift Solenoid E Malfunction), a transmission fault.
I've spoken with my mechanic, and I've done some research online. My understanding is that it could be a shift solenoid, the valve body, the torque converter clutch, or even just low transmission fluid.
I have owned this truck since '05/28k miles. It now has 95k miles. At about 35k, the dealership installed a new transmission (maybe the former owner was a city-driver, or something), and I had basic dealer transmission service about 30k miles ago. I have an appointment to take it to a local shop (a Ford authorized service center, that also services other makes/models) in a few days.
Except for infrequent highway driving, I don't drive the vehicle "hard" at all. I have the vehicle fully serviced by the dealer at recommended intervals. I have been advised that if this fix requires more than basic transmission service, that I should take it to the dealership (factory tools, etc).
These are some observations about the malfunction:
1) The engine/transmission is still cold (just started the engine). I shift from P to R, to back out of my driveway. The transmission seems to be "stuck" in neutral/park. 5-10 seconds pass, finally transmission engages R gear. Switching from R to D, vehicle operates normally.
2) While driving normally, I accelerate steadily from 20-40mph. The transmission hesitates before switching from 2nd-3rd gear (peaking at 3k rpm, holding steady). When I take my foot off the accelerator slightly, then re-apply it, the vehicle shifts. (EDIT: Subsequent to this same post on another forum, I have been told that first gen Tacomas often have a cold tranny 2nd to 3rd shift hesitation, and I have seen it before, but it's arguably more noticeable since this recent problem developed.)
The transmission has only 60k relatively "easy" miles on it.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Camry V6. The warranty expired in Feb 2007. The car has only 67,000km.
The check engine light came on and the code is P0770, Solenoid E malfunction. The problem was first reported at 43,000km, when the car was still under warranty but only a transmission flush was performed and the code was reset.
I wrote Toyota and after almost two months they told me they do not cover it because is out of warranty and I do not qualify for the Goodwill program. I tried again to tell them that instead of fixing the root of the problem they temporarily covered it, but again I got a NO. No comments about the mileage, time, etc. Just the car is out of warranty and I'm out of luck.
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I am preparing to combat the old P0401, Insufficient flow issue. While looking at the steps in Alldatadiy the very first decision essentially forks on "EGR System Module" or "Others".
I am just guessing that, since the choice is there, some engines will have one and some will have the other. But I thought I'd come here and see if I could learn a little more about it.
How can I tell what my truck has? I'm sure there is some difference...
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Camry 2000 CE 102,xxx miles. My car died in Jan 14, after have P0770 for while, only Reverse gear work. The mechanics said the tranny need to re-build. I had him bring the tranny to tranny shop to re-build ($1650), then the code still pop up. Brought it back, they said the ECU needs to be reset. I had the car next day then that code pop up again!
They replaced the Solenoid E. The code is still there. Brought the car back, they took the tranny to rebuild it again. Drive the car for a day, the darn code pop up again, now they blamed on the ECU. Ok my mechanic guy replaced it at my own cost for part ($150) but the code is still there. This time they blamed on the high idle rpm approx. 1600-1800. My mechanic tried to fix the high idle speed so the tranny stop blaming other causes. He cleaned IAC valve, replace O-rings (I don't remember the location of them) then he said whenever he inserted the new ones, they start to crack!
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Last night while driving, my transmission made a pretty severe clunk, but then appeared to act normal. However, a check engine light came on so I pulled over immediately as I was literally at the entrance to a gas station.
I looked under the vehicle, under the hood, saw nothing leaking, nothing obviously broken etc. So got back in and started the engine, went to shift into reverse and the transmission clunks, same going from N into D.
I limped it home, but while driving noticed that it was not shifting but stuck in one gear.
This morning I scanned for codes and the only one showing is P0770 Shift Solenoid. I searched this forum though and get 0 results on that code, searching Google is also surprisingly vague. I believe (could be wrong though) that I have the 6R60 Transmission, it is a 2008 Explorer with the 4.6L V8.
Where to check first? When I get time I am going to check the fluid level, but could not last night as there is no dipstick!
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During low rpm cruise and light throttle acceleration below 2000rpm the transmission feels like its lagging or doesn't engage until after like a second or two after you press the gas pedal down. Been happening the past couple months and I would like to find a fix for it instead of buying a used trans or new trans.
Just picked up this code the other day as well.
P2757: Torque Converter Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Control Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
Recently changed the fluid over a year ago with Toyota ATF @ Longo Lexus. Car has 140k+ miles on it.
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I've searched for this and haven't come up with much other than the same error code for a bunch of other vehicles, and a bunch of different responses. My Tacoma is a 2000 PreRunner, 3.4 liter engine.
The exact code I get it is:
P1071
bank 1 system too lean
What this could be?
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So, I bought the truck used and everything about this truck is great minus the shifting difficulties in first. With the truck at a dead stop, the clutch depressed, and the shifter in neutral it can be near impossible to shift into 1st (it's possible with a lot - emphasis on a lot - of force). No grinding, clashing, knocking in the shift knob - it just wont go into gear. I can shift into 2nd-5th and reverse without too much difficulty. If the truck is in motion, once the vehicle gets between 2-5mph I can easily downshift into 1st. However, if I shift out of 1st and let the truck sit for, say, 5 seconds it is often very challenging to get the truck back into 1st.
I have tried to look up this problem online with limited success. What I found was it could be caused by:- something wrong with the clutch installation- a need to bleed the clutch (it's hydraulic and, although the reservoir is full, the fluid is a bit dirty)- perhaps a faulty clutch master cylinder- play in the clutch linkage- a broken spring in the pressure plate- a bearing that is starting to go out- worn synchros in 1st.
I am a machinist, not a mechanic, so it's hard for me to evaluate these ideas (beyond the cost associated with each). Given my limited knowledge of transmissions and my good mechanic friend's opinion, I think it's a broken spring in the pressure plate.
1990 Toyota Pickup 4x4 manual transmission. This is the original transmission in the truck, it has not been rebuilt (but has been maintained with regular fluid changes), and has a tad over 158,000 miles on it.
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I have coolant leaking from the bottom of this hose on my brothers car. I am not very familiar with the BEW's as I drive an ALH. Just looking for info about part number or name on this hose so I can get a new one. Has a part number MH3364 on it but that is not working anywhere.
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The car is hard to start - very hard, but once warm it manages to run ok. There vacuum hose way down low, on the back of the block and under the starter, impossible to see but if my fingers aren't lying it's very near the knock sensor? This hose is rotten and disconnected at the top - it's just laying there kinda under the throttle body.
For the life of me I cannot a) identify what the hose goes to and b) figure out where to plug it back in. There are no empty ports I can find anywhere within reach of the floppy end of the hose.
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2000 Tacoma v6 has has always ran good, but has check engine light code P300 & P306. cly 3 & cly 6 missfire, lean bank 1. Vacuum test showed no problems.
I've changed plugs & wires, switched coils around cleaned mass air flow sensor, checked timing. Ran Seafoam through intake, and gas tank. Check engine light went out for about three miles, then came back on. What else can I do to keep that blinking check engine light off?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L ... After having some problems a week ago with the truck dieing at every stop sign or any time my foot wasn't on the gas. Eventually the truck would not start at all. I finally got a CEL that gave me P3040 (Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) So I changed out the sensor and the truck fired right up and ran for 3 days.. Now the truck does not start again and I am getting the same CEL code.
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I did a search on the CEL P0770 and P0765 codes and I find plenty in regards to the light on but every post I have seen, says the tranny is working fine. Not the case with mine. Tranny is slipping, and if you let it sit for 30 minutes or so, it will run fine then start surging and slipping. Got to where I couldn't get it to move at all. It says B, D E trans shift solenoid for the codes. I don't want to put in this new solenoid and have not fix the issue. Is my tranny toast? Seems electrical since it will work fine once it sits for a bit. Plus, with the OD disengaged, it seemed to work fine, but even then it was acting up? I bought it used with 140k and don't know if tranny was serviced or not. I think it has due to lots of oil change receipts etc from the past 4 years..
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I have a 2001 Toyota Celica GT, automatic with 177,000 miles, it has been very well maintained. I started having a problem usually just after starting when it is still not completely warmed up. I try and shift it into reverse or drive, and the shifter says it is in those gears, but the car acts like it is in neutral. Once it gets a little warmer I can try it again and it will slowly shift into reverse or drive, usually though the rpm's seem to go a little higher than normal while it shifts. It seems to drive pretty well after this, shifting-wise, but not exactly perfect.
When it is completely warm though it usually drives really well - mostly I do a lot of highway driving. The transmission fluid is full, and looks perfect, nothing in it, not burnt. Previous owner had it changed a few years ago I believe. The check engine light is on and the codes are Speed Sensor A P0500, P0770 Shift solenoid E. My speedometer also works perfectly by the way. I don't have a lot of good shops around and I feel like the ones that are closest to me will see dollar signs in their eyes when they see that transmission code and will just try and replace the whole transmission right off the bat.
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