Tacoma :: 2007 - Electronic Hubs Always Locked In?
Feb 6, 2012
I have a 2007 Tacoma 4x4 and until recently everything was fine. I even got almost 75000 miles out of the stock tires. About a month after the new tires the battery died so I replaced it. Since then the front seems to have a slight vibration and a slight noise. Kinda sounds like when you hear a 4x4 with big mudder tires on pavement. Both the vibration and sound are so slight that others cannot hear or feel it, I just notice having driven it for over 5 years, mostly highway.
When rotating my tires I noticed the front "axles" (don't know the proper name) turn with the tires. With the wheel off I tried holding the "axle" while turning the disk brake but it was as if the hub was locked in. A neighbor who seemed to think he'd heard of it before asked if I'd changed out the batter or had to disconnect it which of course I had. He said that maybe the electronic hubs were not unlocking. The tires still spin freely as the transfer case is not engaged but both of the axles coming from it spin with the tires.
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I get a very bad vibration when my hubs are locked in. If i unlock the hubs it goes right away. It don't matter if the transfer case is engaged or not.
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A relative's '04 EX Limited is having an odd problem. He put it in "4x4 Low" to back a trailer into a barn and after the task was complete the transfer case wouldn't shift out of low range. He tried multiple times and after about 5 minutes of fiddling around with it, it shifted into 4-Hi but wouldn't go back to 2-Hi. The hubs are in the "auto" position and will not manually unlock (the selector turns). 4x4 indicator on dash is not lit. Could the dash switch be bad? Why would the transfer case and hubs act up at the same time?
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I have been recently told that it is bad to drive my F350 with the manual hubs locked when I do not have it in 4 wheel drive mode. There are times when plowing snow that the roads are cleared but I am still plowing driveways. I do not want to travel with 4 wheel engaged in the scenario. So I would just disengage 4 wheel and travel to next stop. Is this a bad procedure?
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I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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Warn Premiums, installed them and now the 4x4 is engaging, but still have a grinding issue. When the hubs are locked and the switch is in 2 wheel drive, the frond end is grinding, if I switch it to 4 hi, the grinding goes away.
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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I have an 04 F150 (4.6, auto, 4x4, SCrew) with 300,000 miles. Any success modifying existing 4X4 IWE actuators so they are always locked in?
My last set of actuators didn't last long My vacuum is too low under hard acceleration... Actuators partially engage leading to early failure.
I'd like to take an actuator apart, modify it so it's always locked in. Some loss of mileage? Other ramifications?
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Well long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
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Is it ok to keep my front hubs locked in and the switch in the 2wd position for everyday driving? Only reason I do it is because in auto it doesn't always go into 4wd.
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But on my 2000 SD V10 the hubs are worn I just cant find which way to turn them to auto ?
I'm getting popping and such so I think I'm locked while turning.
Also.... IS there a way to check the COPS with a multimeter? I think I got a bad one.
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Had to make a sharp circular turn last night in a parking lot, with the steering turned to full-lock...noticed a very audible clunking or clicking noise during the turn...went away after full-lock turning was released. My hubs are locked in...but I was told there was no issue with leaving them locked in, even during the summer. And there shouldn't be...4x4 disengaged, of course. Must have been the u-joints clicking / clunking? Problem?
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Just got done with a ball joint replacement on my 2003 F550, everything went together great, just as it should. Until I got to the drivers side hub lock.
I have Mile Marker 449s/s manual hubs. Turn from free to lock and theres this loud clicking sound about halfway to LOCK (passenger side doesn't do this). Hub will stay locked for about 2 rotations, then it unlocks and makes a clicking sound. You cannot turn the hub back to FREE, it gets halfway and stops. I tried forcing it and broke the spring fingers inside. Have a new set on order.
Is this a locking hub issue or an assembly error? I was going to take these steps.
- Take passenger side hub lock off and see if it operates normally or same on drivers side.
- If same, remove axle and re-seat/re-assemble everything again
Anything to specifically check? All the parts went back in, washers were in correct order, outer snap ring is in groove.
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Ok so some one locked my hubs and put the truck in 4x4 4low i assume my aunt was driving it, truck wouldn't shift from 2 to 3rd is this normal since its in 4low. The shifter also seems pretty stiff and 4wheel isn't used much if there a way to know if 3rd gear toon a crap? Trans fluid seems fine not dirty or burnt...
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2008 F350 hubs wont stay locked in when in auto position. everything stays locked while in manual and 4x4 works fine, but in auto the hubs wont stay locked while spinning. I was trying to find the problem when i noticed that one hub stays locked all the time and the other locks and unlocks as it should but it wont stay locked while spinning. My question is do I have two bad hubs or is their a leak that wont let the hub stay locked? Also on the hub that wont unlock is this a leak problem as well or a internal problem?
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Having an issue w/ my 00 550. When I lock in the hubs there is instantly a noise, More of a squealing then a grinding. The truck goes in and out of 4x4 no problem and the noise is there locked in 4x4 and not locked in, as long as the hubs are locked in. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the 4x4 driveshaft but there is no noticeable play in the u-joints or the u-joints in the front axle. I did notice when I spin the 4x4 shaft by hand the passenger side joint spins slower then the driver, not sure if that's normal or could be the problem.
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Got in my 2007 LS460 and it wouldn't start. No power, no clicking, nothing. I checked the battery terminals and noticed they has some corrosion so I cleaned them and reattached. Nothing. I found that if I jiggled the positive cable the power would light up my dashboard with every light / radio, but it still wouldn't start....and I had to disconnect the cable in order to turn the power off. I had the car towed to a trusted Toyota/Lexus repair shop I've used for 15 years. They connected the cables to the battery and it started right up....but the power steering is out. They tried multiple things to get it working with no success. The only option now is to replace the electronic power steering unit.
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I have a chronic problem with my 2007 Prius. Whenever the temperatures get colder outside, the electronic dashboard disappears. It never happens during Spring and Summer.
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The EPS on my 07 Elantra has failed, the steering is very stiff and the EPS light is on. On occasion in the past, the EPS light has come on but started working again after restarting the vehicle. Now the light comes on as soon as I turn the key.
How should I proceed? I don't mind spending a few hundred on a fix that may not work. Is it likely to be a torque sensor / input sensor problem similar to the EPS recall on 2008-2010 Elantras? Are there other electrical issues that could cause this?
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I get a very annoying high pitched electronic whine on an AM radio station that I like. It occurs all the time. Its like a grounding problem. It is so bad I can't listen to the station in my 2009 LS. Only one station, AM 810, has the issue. I don't have ML. Just a regular radio. No other radio issues.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
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