Tacoma :: 1999 Truck Quits At Idle After Revving High
Feb 25, 2010
I have a 99 tacoma with a 3.4 L automatic with 160,000 miles. For the past year my truck will idle rough and quit after revving high. After driving around for a few min its fine until I accelerate hard and get it up to about 4 to 5 thousand rpms. I recently changed the timing belt and accidentally got it about two teeth off. While it was like that, it didnt have much power and it was very loud, but it didnt have the problem. Once I fixed it and got it timed right it started having the problem again.
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1995 Tacoma with 2.7 EFI engine has high idle speed. When cranked cold idles at 800 rpm but as it warms up idle speed increases up around 1600 rpm. Does not idle down when clutch is fanned, have checked for vacuum leaks and have also checked most sensors. The exhaust manifold is cracked and I am not sure if this might be part of the problem. I am not convinced issue is not vacuum related but not sure of a definite way to resolve this question or issue.
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I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
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I've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
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The problem with my truck is not that its regen'ing too often, the problem is that its STUCK in regen cycle. For the past 4-5 days my truck has been going into regen about 1-2 min after i start driving it, every single time i start her up. If i start my truck in the morning and let it warm up for a few min, i come out and my truck is idling higher then normal and has an increased exhaust smell, but when i aply the brake the idle goes back to normal. Then i start driving up the street and BAM "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up and the and immediately the sound of the exhaust and induction changes and it sounds like sputtering/knocking.
Sometimes the the engine will flutter in decel or shutdown. HORRIBLE gas mileage, Reduced engine response and power, and white smoke is cooler temps. Basically all of the normal signs of a regen cycle, am i wrong? Im pretty sure its either a dpf sensor or possibly something wrong with the DPF? I haven't had one problem with my 2010 besides an egr valve and she has 167k miles and is completely stock and im very happy with my truck! 2010 6.4L
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup, 5 speed stick 4 cylinder. When I first start it up it runs at a lower idle than it should. But as soon as it warms up just a bit the idle goes to about 12-15K rpm. Also, when it sits during the day and it's warm outside it will start up with the fast idle.
I don't know if this is coincidence or not but, I found a rabbit sleeping under the hood during the winter (this has been going on for a while). The rabbit chewed through a vacuum hose and a spark plug wire. The vacuum hose was split right by the fitting so I just cut off the 1 1/2" of tubing and re-attached it. The spark plug wire I didn't know was damaged until I drove it for about 5 miles or so when I finally got out to see why it was still running bad. I then had to drive another 5 or so miles to the auto parts store to replace it. I have replaced all the spark plug wires just to be sure. What this would be?
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Had a tune-up and a mechanic also looked at the accelerator pedalfor some reason, but no report regarding the fuel injection or regulatory components which I suppose should have signaled an issue when the computer diagnostic was run if I am to understand the mechanic's position.
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My 2000 7.3 2wd is making a knocking sound while accelerating. It speeds up as I accel and when I let off the gas it gets louder. It slows down all the way to a stop when the truck slows to a stop. I can feel it in the floor board a bit as well.
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Just a hour ago, driving along about 45, then I hear a loud bang and my truck quits. I get off the road and it won't even turn over. I had a friend tow it back to the barracks and put a socket and breaker bar on the crank and can't move it. All the fluids are fine. Possible seized up? The thing was running great as always then boom. Nothing! It's a 06' F150, 5.4, 97K on it.
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I have A '06 f 150 4x4 with codes p303 and 307. I have changed plugs, coils, and injectors on all cylinders. Still nothing. It runs rough for a while and clears out for a mile or so and back to running bad. When it stumbles the a/c quits blowing cold and the truck shakes like crazy. The check engine light is on and blinks when it stumbles. Tired of just having parts changed. What else could it be?
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A friend of mine is having issues with her 03 Tacoma. Last night her alarm went off so she went down to check it out. Turned the alarm off and re-activated the alarm. About 20 seconds later the alarm went off again. She said she unlocked it, climbed in and started the truck. The warning lights (check engine etc.) are now flashing even with the truck off and no alarm activated.
My best guess is water, at least a little moisture (it rained last night), somehow got into the ECU or some other component of the alarm. Or possible corrosion on a wire or connection. Does that sound like the right direction to go with trouble shooting this issue? I downloaded a manual for the alarm.. I am assuming it's an RS3000.
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Recently, when I start my Golf 2.5 DSG it has been revving a little loud or rough. It usually revs at under 1k at idle, but when starting up it revs at around 1500 until I put it in drive and release the footbrake.
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Driving home today the truck's radio quit, then the power windows would not work. Dome light would not come on and truck started running poorly. Over a period of ten miles it went from running normal to creeping along just above idle (1200 rpm or so). Then it quit completely. Did not have enough juice to start. Checked battery voltage ~13volts. About an hour after it quit it started and act like nothing was wrong. What do you all think might have caused this?
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The truck has 230,000 miles and has a squeal that sounds like a belt but it's not. I have put the truck in neutral coasted with the engine off and the noise is still there. The noise only happens when the weather is cold and only when the truck is coasting. Under acceleration the sound goes away.
Toyota Tacoma Prerunner 2003 (2.7)...
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I've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?
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I have a 2007 Passat with >120k miles on it. For the last month or so, occasionally when I start the car up, the EPC (I think it stands for Electronic Power Control) light and the Check Engine (the engine sign) light comes on. When I hit the gas, it barely goes past 20 and seems to be revving really high (almost redlining) before it finally accelerates. Needless to say, this is not a good thing; especially when it happens on the freeway.
I called around to a few mechanics but they all want to see the car and run the computer codes on it before they even tell me what's wrong with it; which I am loathe to do just yet because I don't want them to charge me an extra $100 for a diagnostic for a repair I may not even get done with that mechanic. Meanwhile I'm driving around feeling like I should put my feet on the ground like Fred Flintstone to gain speed.
In the research I've done online, I've seen that it may be an issue with the throttle wire or some other wiring issue.
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1998 Honda CRV ... Replaced the AC compressor. AC is cold only when the engine is revving above certain rpm. When at a stop, the air is warm...but if I put it into neutral and rev the engine to, let's say, 2000+ rpm, AC gets colder....or when I am driving, obviously. I know everyone is gonna say something about the condenser fan but would it be the fan given above circumstances?
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I just brought my 2011 Prius to the dealership today after the check engine light came on. Last night, the car was intermittently revving at a high level, but otherwise the car as running fine. The service technician was saying it was the VSV valve that was intermittently sticking. I was told that there was a software update on this valve that might take care of the problem; I asked about the lifespan for the valve, but he had no information about that. I told him to just do the software update, but now I'm wondering if I should also replace the valve.
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I have a 2008 Subaru Forester that I bought used. It has 37,000 miles on it. When I drive at high altitudes, the rpms rev up, the car slows down, sounds terrible. Why is this and what can be done?
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i did have the mech recall done a while back. lately, on several occasions, when i've hit the pedal to the floor "fast", i would get a high rev to 3-4k with the car not moving any faster and then after the revs come back to 1-2k the car would take off like it should. the perfect example of this would be when i wanted to change lanes or pass someone on the freeway.
the car accelerates normally when i am depressing the pedal incrementally and i haven't seen the same type of thing during any other situation. i've had the car for a year and hadn't really noticed this prior to recent driving.
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I have a 89 f250 4x4 351W FI C6 Auto, recently I was having problems with the trans it was revving up real high before it went into 2nd. I dropped the pan and the valve body to make sure their were no shavings or any other debris. Everything ok.
So I replaced the valve modulator and the line that goes to the intake, replaced the MLPS and adjusted the intermediate band. I put it all back together and NOW it won't even go in gear. Did I hook up the valve body wrong? If so what is the proper way of doing it?
I only unbolted the valve body from the trans I didn't take it apart. I was also wondering whats up with the color strips on the modulator I have purple right now was i suppose to have different color? Could the pin for the modulator not be in place? I added 3 quarts is that to much or not enough?
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