Tacoma :: 1996 Won't Start Up - All Dash Lights Came On
May 26, 2004
I have a 1996 2.7L 4x4 Tacoma. About a month ago I had a problem pop up. I went to start my truck and nothing happened. All the dash lights came on(i.e. e-brake indicator, airbag light, check engine light) like they were suppose to when you turn on the key. I heard the fuel pump come on and the starter relay click, but the starter did not activate. My first thought was bad battery because it had the original from when I bought it used. So I replaced it. Thought problem was fixed, but it reappeared. Checked all the starter wires and alternator wiring and they all appear to be fine. Truck started fine for a week after I had inspected the wiring. Then the problem came back.Then I replaced the starter thinking maybe the solenoid was bad. Once again the truck started fine for a day or two then the problem resurfaced. I thought maybe the starter relay had a bad contact in it so I replaced that, with no luck. Then I replaced the ignition switch thinking maybe that had a bad contact in it. Once again no resolution to the problem. The final piece to the puzzle is that sometimes if you keep turning the key over and over the thing will start and other times it refuses.
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I have my My brother-in-law's blazer in my garage after a 60 mile tow. This is a TBI model with distributor. The dash lights went out, and it cranks fine but does not fire, even with starting fluid sprayed int the throttle body. Below are the details of what has been done so
far:
- Checked all fuses, none are blown.
- Could not get a spark from the coil wire when next to block while turning it over
- with ignition on we are only getting .11 volts from the connector that goes to the coil, should this be 12 volts?
- Ignition module tested ok (out of the vehicle at an auto zone and they said it was fine)
- can hear the fuel pump run at startup, (was replaced with a delphi pump last winter, but we could not get the fuel filter off at the time and he never replaced it)
- Did not check fuel pressure, but it sprayed out at test port when I pushed the valve.
PCM failure? What else?
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My 96 mercedes c280 will not start in the winter. I moved from florida to ohio and when it gets close to freezing or below my car will not start. The lights on rear view mirror (immobilizer lights) blink for 30 sec. I have to wait any where from 5-30 min. to start car depending on how cold it is, otherwise car runs great.
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1996 lincoln towncar wont start intermittently. Started doing this yesterday, was troubleshooting and my friend jumped the starter to check it and he said it was good. I messed with a few fuses wires and it started up fine. Drove today with no problem, parked and it won't start again... same as yesterday... turn key and all u get is a clicking sound from the inside sounds like under the glovebox in the dash...
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My 96 Tacoma has recently developed an issue where the starter doesn't engage when I turn the key. If I let out the clutch/break and start over, it typically works.
The weird part is that I never had this issue until I had the clutch replaced. The day after I got it back was the first time I had any issues. It is intermittent and doesn't happen anywhere close to all the time. I took it back to the shop that did my clutch and they told me I needed to replace my starter but I'm wondering if there is any other explanation for what's happening that would make sense given the timing of the whole thing. Could work they did replacing the clutch be causing this?
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I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 5 speed manual pickup.
Occasionally I use the air conditioner. I'll be driving along and it's working fine but then it stops putting out cold air. I pulled into the mechanic one day and confirmed that when it is not putting out cold air, the compressor still seems to be running.
If I go into a store for about 15 minutes and then come out again, it works again. What might be happening?
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This is a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 2WD, 2.4L. When I apply the brakes I get a very heavy vibration in the front end, almost like a wobble. The vehicle otherwise stops fine. No noises. The vibration occurs at pretty much any speed over 20 mph. The frequency does not seem tied to the actual speed but it's hard to tell for sure. It does not do it when I apply the emergency brake only.
I replaced the front disk brake pads, with new clips and shims. There were worn down pretty far and needed replacing. Unfortunately that did not make any difference in the vibration. Rotor runout and minumum thickness were checked while changing the disk brake pads and both were within specs. I did a quick inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends by trying to move the tire and everything seems tight enough.
I'm not very proficient on suspension issues. What else can I look for.
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I have a 1996 E350 7.3 pstd and it hasn't started since April... Van ran great but had bad bearings in the steering column. I changed out the bearings around the steering stem and it hasn't started since but turns over just fine. The main symptom is the dash loses power when key is rotating from the last run position to the spring back crank position. Basically halfway between run and start the the dash drops power. You can see the problem very well in this video I'm attaching.
I filmed this moths ago so the dash is in disarray and I'm using a screw driver to activate the ignition switch. The screw driver bypasses the key cylinder which I thought was the problem but it's not. Parts I've replaced include new glow plug relay, new ignition switch, alternator rebuilt, 2 brand new batteries, new cps sensor, and also a new pcm. All fuses and relays have been checked and most have been tested, pcm gets power in run position as well. Gotta get this thing figured out it's been sitting for 6 months
Watch the video : [URL] ....
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I recently purchased 96 Toyota Tacoma 108 K miles. I discovered that it is totally missing all the front fender liners on both sides. Looking for info as to the number of parts needed for each side. No need to include the clips because they are bought by the 10 pack. Maybe how many 10 packs.
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This is a great little truck we only use occasionally. It has 145,000 miles and runs great, but the a/c temperature is very sporadic, and this week it is 100 degrees! One day it will work fine, and the next day it will only blow hot air. Sometimes the air starts out cold, but after 5 min of driving, it turns hot. I have had the freon checked and my mechanic said part of the compressor (forget what he called it) was probably getting stuck at times, and he would have to pull it all out and possibly replace...
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All the gauges on the dash will die for a second and the engine cuts out and the car jerks then it will come back on and everything is fine. Sometimes the gauges turn off completely and the car will die and will not start for several minutes. I will try to start the engine but it will not start until the dash lights come back on. The first time this happened to me I changed the air filter and the car ran fine for a month. So when it happened again I took my air filter out put it back in and again the car worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now, It doesn't work to mess with the air filter at all. The car is cutting out more and more.
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I going crazy over this mad squeak in the bottom and back portions of my driver's seat. Several squeaks happen during regular driving and cornering. I weigh 215, but come on!!
Also the dash rattles, especially in the morning. It's right on top, in the middle, above the controls. I can push down and make it stop. I figure, I gotta pull off the dash plates and look underneath, but I'll take easier alternatives.
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I started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had a problem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in November of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would work but nothing so far. Could it be the ignition switch?!
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No brake lights or dash lights radio,headlights etc. Nothing.. Horn works and the emergency lights. A little red one at the start button is on sometimes. Tried jumping under the hood [+ tab} and checked the 12v battery and it checks good.
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I got into my car and pressed the start button. All the lights on the dash came on but nothing happened. I tried to jump start the battery. Nothing. I got a volt meter from someone at the club and found that the battery was fine. I called the Lexus dealer close to me. They told me it was the in the key. Just hold the key close to the start button and it will start. Did this and nothing. I did not get the indicator light that the car cannot find the key. Every time I press the start button, I hear on click from the engine then nothing. I think maybe the starter. I had the car toed to the Lexus dealer since I have the extended warranty. I changed the battery about two months ago after the car was dead late one Sat. night in a parking garage. But I jump started it and drove it home. Replaced battery and everything was fine until today.
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My R ran just fine two days ago. I went out to start it this morning and I get all crank. No turn over not even a pop. Now, it is 3 degrees outside right now. I've started my car many times in the cold with no issue. Weird thing is all of the lights on the gauge cluster all flash at the same time. I have a code for a secondary o2 but that obviously is not the case. And yes the fuel pump did prime when I opened the door.
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My 2014 camry won't start. I put my key in the ignition and the dash lights come on and blinks once and won't start. The brake pedal won't depress and the steering wheel stays stiff.
I was messing with my sound system the day before and now the car won't start. I've check the battery and it's good and has juice. I've checked all the fuses and relays seem to be fine. Everything work on the car it just won't start.
These cars have a main relay or something with the ignition switch?
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My 1985 Ford F-150 6 cyl. manual with overdrive would not start when I turned on the key, moved moved the key to start... It suddenly did nothing and all the dash light went out. I assumed the battery was run down and then tried to start it with my 2010 Ford car.
It still would not start and all dash lights went out. I then put my battery charger on the battery and charged fully charged the battery. I then turned the key off and back on and the dash light went on, tried to start again and the same thing happened. After about 10/15 minutes, I tried again and still did not start. I waited another few minutes, turned the key on and jumped from the battery positive to the starter cable after the starter solenoid and the engine started.
I ran it for a few minutes, and the backed it into the garage. The next day I again tried to start it and again, there was no power to the vehicle... no headlights, brake lights, dash light...nothing. I assumed the starter solenoid was burned out and replaced it. Still did the same thing. I replaced the fusible link on a yellow wire attached to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Still no power.
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What is the problem need to fix have limited fundage....
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this is the second time this has happened to me: I stopped at a beach access to relax & look at the ocean, turned car off but left key in as was staying in car. When I decided to leave car would not start, dash lights would come on but that was all. Hit power button again lights went off but could not get key out of ignition. After several tries I call AAA, they charged something under the hood & said I needed a new battery. The first time this happened was several months ago & I never replaced the battery. When I got home I did the self check of the voltage & it was 12.8 & car is starting fine. Is this some kind of a computer glitch?
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My dash lights flash on and off. Happens every time I start the car and always within a 1/2 mile - almost as if it is tied to the odometer somehow.
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