Suzuki - XL7 :: 2007 - Getting Error Turn Off Engine / Oil Pressure Is Low?
Dec 15, 2014
I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7 that's sending me messages whenever the car demons feel the need. From time to time, a message will come up on my console display saying, "TURN OFF ENGINE; OIL PRESSURE LOW." I shut off the engine and then it stops. Along with the message there is a continuous tone similar to when a door is open. The tone gets loud, then soft, repeat. I find it hard to believe that the oil pressure would equalize after the engine being shut down for about 30 seconds. Could I possible have an electrical problem? I ask this because, as I mentioned before, the tone is loud initially and then soft. When I use the turn signal, the same thing happens.
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2007 Suzuki XL7 luxury 6 cyl 3.6l - Error code reads p0122 and the computer in the dash reads Engine Hot- A/C off. It turned over earlier but Car wont start now. Battery is new, all fluid levels, fuses ok. So... looking for
1) PART NUMBER to search for to replace the TPS? or
2) SIMPLE STEP BY STEP instruction on how to ADJUST it?
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My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
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Suddenly got the "check tire pressure system" error (not the tire pressure one) so I tried the only procedure I could find, turning ignition on and holding reset tpms button below steering colum. Got the tpms resetting message but the previous message came back. How can I fix that issue? Never had that before.
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How to reset and remove the error code on the tire pressure monitoring system?
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I had a Check Engine Light a couple months ago, and I took the car to the garage to have it checked out. They told me they got a Fuel Pressure Sensor malfunction code, and that the sensor had to be replaced. I did so myself, an it is ridiculously easy, and the car worked fine. I noticed the Check Engine Light blinked a couple of times while I was driving, but never got steady. A couple of days ago, it did. Out of a bad gut-feeling, I purchased a ODBII scanner, and I scanned the car myself. I got the same error code as the garage did, but the sensor should be fine.
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I have a 2011 F-550 XL truck, I had a problem with an open injector4 and was forced to replace the engine, later, I had a problem while installing an OLEP kit, misplaced the hose and killed the engine (...i know... ) so, I changed 3/4 of the engine, just mechanical parts and reused the wires and cables, now the check engine light is ON with an oil pressure error, replaced the sensor and the error remains, replaced the computer and guess what ...again, the same error. What might be going on?...
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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I have a 2000 Suzuki Esteem and I live in Minnesota (just in case the cold affects it). This morning my ignition won't turn at all. I have tried wiggling the wheels to unlock the ignition, but nothing is working.
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Neighbor bought a 91 tracker. We put a new battery and alternator in it. We have to jump the vehicle to get it to start. While running with the light on, the lights are extremely dim. Sometimes the vehicle will start again, but most times it won't. What I mean by it won't start is nothing happens when you turn the key. No clicking starter does not engage. Sometime the car will not stay running with out charger attached. Then again sometimes everything is fine.
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I have an 07 Camry with a hard to turn steering wheel. I had to replace the high pressure hose from the rack due to a leak. After that I basically bled the system as one would do under normal circumstances. With the cars front wheels off the ground I turned the wheel hard left and right. The wheel did give a bit but not to the point of perfection. After many turns I put the vehicle on the ground and repeated the process. The fluid no longer leaked but the stiffness was still there.
The hose was replaced at 110,000 miles. It's currently at 112,000 miles
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Last night I went to the bowling lanes with some work friends (didn't do so hot). When I went to leave and start the car... well, the R wouldn't start. There was plenty of power and I could tell it wanted to go, but the engine just wouldn't turn over. After a few tries the monitor gave a "STOP! Oil pressure Engine off!" display. I'm not sure what the deal is. The car just turned 10k miles and there is plenty of oil in the engine.
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I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
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When the computer says the life of the oil is over, the engine begins to run poorly - skipping, stuttering. The oil level is fine … I know it needs changing, but why such a dramatic problem. Can't start it now to get to service. Last time thisoccurred, it was running very rough, had the oil changed and it ran like new. What's up?!
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While my wife was re-parking my 2007 S60 this morning (currently at 73,143 miles), the error message "Reduced engine performance" came up.
She had switched-off the engine before calling me on the phone to report it, else i would have told her to rev the engine to see how far the rpm gauge could go.
While checking through the error on google, noticed there were several complaints on this in the past but could not see any inferences on what was done to resolve this except for guys who mentioned repeated visit to dealership.
When she switched-on the engine again, the error message didn't come up and she could rev the engine up to 6500rpm, i intend using the car for a long journey next week and do not want any breakdowns.
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So, I have a 2007 Suzuki SX4, about 172,000 miles on it. Great little car. Love it. It's the AWD Hatchback model.
I recently noticed that it's been squeaking a bit. But only right at start up. In fact, it's summer where I live, and A/C is required just about anytime you go anywhere, day OR night... so, it may have been going on a while without me noticing it. Certainly sometime since the last oil change (almost ready for a new one).
Tonight was typical..... Start the car. Back out. Drive half a block to where there's a stop sign. I hear squeaking when I step on the brakes. Take my foot off the brakes (just to test it) and I still hear squeaking.
I turn left from my side street onto a busier street, hear a bit of squeaking. It goes away. Then I go two more blocks, make a left turn onto an even busier street, where it squeaks LOUDLY while turning left. By the time I drive another six blocks, the noise is gone. Completely.
At first I wondered about the summer heat and the serpentine belt.
The squeaking while turning left made me wonder if it's a stuck caliper.
The fact that it goes away after about a mile of driving makes me scratch my head.
Tonight, I did experiment a little. The car DOES pull -- EVER SO SLIGHTLY -- to the left. But I mean.... just barely to the left. And that could've been because the particular road I was on (when I "over corrected" a little and aimed the steering wheel a lot more to the right, it started to drift right). Alignment was last done a little over a year ago. Maybe year and a half.
So...... I know I should get this checked out. Just looking at what this might be. The fact that ALL squeaking goes away after about a mile of driving.... that seems odd to me... (unless of course it's the belt).
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2 error codes? Car runs fine - nothing seems wrong - the check engine light went on, so I pulled out the scanner which came up with the 2 codes: P0021 and P0022.
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Less than 30 days ago, replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump, Front Arm Bushings, and Power Steering High Pressure Hose on my 2007 Honda Odyssey.
Today, my wife noticed the engine was noisier than usual, then suddenly became stranded on the roadside when the power steering went out; at the same time a "Check Charging System" error displayed on the panel. The van was within walking distance of home. I got it home and checked the engine, finding the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir to be nearly empty (far lower than the minimum line).
My questions - am I right to think Honda blew it? Does the above scenario sound like they simply forgot to refill the fluid after their repair? Or other? If negligence, what sort of damage may have resulted that I should be on the lookout for? Finally, why is the "Check Charging System" light coming on as a result of this?
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The engine light and Stop Engine low oil pressure light came on in my 2007 Passat. I had it towed to the dealer where it went through inspection for CPO certification. I purchased and had maint. and repairs completed at the dealership. I am at 84,000m. It is less than two years from date of purchase--however I am 12,000m outside of the limited warranty.
Dealership has said that there is factory based engine failure. To my knowledge, a diagnostic (1 Camshaft Position (Bank 1) Timing over advanced or system performance intermittent) and seeing metal near filter led to the conclusion that I can pay to take apart the engine--but most likely will need to replace the engine.
Outside mechanic has pointed out that the 2.0 engine tends to have some metal in the oil. How much or how big could signal internal damage. Small amounts can be "normal".
Looking for steps that could be taken before taking apart the engine? As it is less than 2 yrs. Passat 2007 (2.0 engine) ....
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So I bought my first VW as a used car. It's a 2011 GTI and already running into some problems. During the test drive at the dealership, the problem didn't occur. The car was sold as "as-is".
So on the way home from the dealership, the car threw an error about low oil pressure (I'm not sure what the wording was exactly at this time). I drove normally. I did not hit red-line or do any hard cornering on the way home. I got freaked out so I stopped, turned engine off and checked oil level. It's at the proper level.
I looked around the engine bay but nothing was obvious. I started the car up again and the code was gone so I made it all the way home. I drove around some more and now it's showing up about every 15-20 mins. Goes away and then comes back on later. The error now is "Low oil pressure. Turn engine off immediately".
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I'm not sure what is the correct term to describe the engine behavior. Maybe backfire, knocking, but it doesn't sound like the youtube videos I see online. I just know that under certain conditions, the engine shutters with an exploding feel to it like it needed to "pass some gas" for a human.
This happens when braking quickly from high speed to slow speed or a quick stop. Also happens when accelerating then stopping a bit and resuming acceleration (an interrupted acceleration as rush hour traffic not allow for a nice acceleration - you know how people stop and go speeding up then having to break and repeat, affecting you and when you misgauge the best optimal acceleration speed, you have to stop acceleration a bit then resume).
I drive automatic transmission. Are many auto tranny cars affected by this type of thing? I seem to notice it with the cars I've driven. Or maybe I drive crappy cars. I think I noticed it once in a friends manual shift car. This expected normal behavior of cars?
Car drives fine except for the mentioned behavior for the drastic speed changes. The car is a 2006 Suzuki Forenza, automatic transmission. Currently 80k miles.
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