Suzuki - Samurai :: 1986 - No Output From Alternator
May 11, 2016
I have a 86 Suzuki samurai that I have just swapped a vw 1.9 turbo diesel into with a gm 3 wire 10si 110amp alternator.
Wire number 2 is looped back onto the 12v post and has 12v at all times
Wire number 1 is hooked into my dash light.
Key on engine off it reads 0v with the dash light on, key on engine on it reads just below battery voltage and dash light is off. The 12v post is hooked into my stock wiring connected to my brand new battery. Today I had my battery and my alternator bench tested and they both came back functioning normally.
My issue is I'm never reading above battery voltage with the engine on (either from the post on the alternator or my battery). I grabbed a used alternator locally and I was having the same issue. However with that one if I pulled the positive lead from the battery with the engine running it would read 14.3v until I would hook it back to the battery where it would drop back to battery voltage. I was able to repeat that behaviour mutlitple times until I ended up killing the alternator. My other alternator is new and I don't wish to damage it pulling the positive lead but I'm betting it's functioning the same way.
What in my system could be causing this? The truck is pretty old and doesn't have a ecm or much of any electrical and I just can't figure out what's going on. Its like some kind of feedback is shutting down the alternator when it gets hooked up to the battery.
So far I've tried temporarily adding grounds with jumper cables :
Measured 0.2ohm resistance between my ground cable and the alternator housing
Measured 0.0ohm resistance between my positive lead and the 12v post on alternator
I've also tried pulling all the relays and accessories I've added to the positive lead with no change. Camping weather is quickly approaching and I need my truck back on the road!
View 18 Replies
Advertisement
What difficulties might I run into on switching in the HO alternator. Is it that hard to get the stock alt out/putting the serpentine belt back on once i get the HO alt in?
Any pictures or videos to make this job easier? The stock alt almost looks impossible to get out unless i remove the entire radiator.. Should I just bring it to a shop and have them install it?
View 5 Replies
I decided to change out my alternator to a high output. After researching I've decided to go with a DC Power...I'm planning more lights and a power inverter. Any recommendation on which one? I don't care what it cost just don't want to over do it, can too many amps hurt anything? Also, on my previous EX I did the big 3 upgrade. Is it the same on a 2 battery setup?
View 14 Replies
Bought a Powermaster 250amp alternator for my '05 V10. Says I need to upgrade my power and ground wires to 4 gauge with fuse on power cable. I don't really run too many accessories other than HID heads and fogs and 2 DVD screens for the boys.
Do do I really need to upgrade my wiring? Can't imagine I'm pulling much more amperage than stock (130amp on my truck).
View 6 Replies
2001 ranger with 4.0, alternator failed and new alternator is also not charging, showing very little output. i've installed 2 new ones with no fix. the regulator is in the alternator, correct? I'm stumped and not sure where to go with this.
View 14 Replies
We've got a 2012 F550 6.7 with 138k. It recently got a battery light. The batteries are right around 12 volts with the truck running or off. I also tested the output on the alternator and its not charging. I put a new alternator in it and still no charge. All the connections are tight and clean. The batteries load test ok. Where to look next?
View 4 Replies
86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
View 9 Replies
A co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
View 3 Replies
Everything was fine yesterday. Get in the car today and no output from the speakers. Everything looks fine with the unit, it shows the volume changing with the knob, but no sound.
View 3 Replies
So today I was pulling the stereo head unit out of my dub to see if it had a sub woofer output...turns out it doesn't and in the process i broke the head unit. Now I have to put in a new head unit and install the sub, I am completely lost. What kind of head unit do i get to match the cords already installed?? How do i know it will fit??
View 4 Replies
When I start my car the air doesn't go on. After driving awhile, it goes on. If I shut car off, it doesn't go on until I drive for a while. ??? I checked the fuse (a/c) but it looks o.k. (not split).
View 1 Replies
I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
View 1 Replies
Recently installed 35w Canbus Slim Ballast 6000k HIDs into my 2014.5 Camry SE projector headlights (black bezel). For some reason it seems like the Halogens lit up better. I get very poor lighting, and when I drive on the highway at night it barely lights up the signs. I don't know if I need to adjust the angle of the projector because the beams seem kind of low or if I need to upgrade the ballast to a 55w. Also not sure if the housing or the stock wiring can handle the 55w without causing damage.
View 14 Replies
The light output from these headlights has always been less that other cars on the road. I polished the lenses with the latest stuff. They look nice and clear, but the lights are not brighter. I put in new bulbs. No difference. I have a solution. Since I seldom use the brights, I want to drive with the brights on all the time and aim the lights so they are not blinding to oncoming drivers or drivers that I am following. How do I accomplish this?
View 9 Replies
I would like to know if it is possible to put biger tyers in width not size. On my Suzuki??
View 1 Replies
Has issue with Forenza idling at very high RPM after start up? I've got a Forenza Wagon with a 5-speed that occasionally will idle at 3100 rpm for 2 or three minutes or a mile or so after starting. The other morning, it was stuck at 3100 for 15 minutes and about 8 miles. Manual transmissions will be more evident since the high revs occur when the clutch is pushed in.
View 30 Replies
The air conditioner works fine. Auxillary heat works fine. Heat won't switch from cold to hot in the front of the car. What would cause this?
View 1 Replies
We bought a 2007 XL7 two weeks ago. The second day we had the car the battery was dead. Had it replaced and then the charging system was not reading over 12.3 volts while running. Replaced the alternator but the car still ranges from 12.3 to 14.2 volts while running or idling. Last Saturday the front control stopped working. Could not change the radio, a/c or any other centrally located controls. We had a 2004 XL7 and it was great. Our vehicle was manufactured Nov of 2006 so it was one of the first out, I almost forgot that the speakers pop like something is grounding out every time we open the doors. I ran a Suzuki Motorcycle dealership for almost 10 years and have never seen anything this random in the powersports world. The dealer said he has replaced batteries in 3 other new XL7's. Did I get the only XL7 with Gremlins?
View 30 Replies
I just got my SX4 on tuesday and it has a shimmy in the front while going down the road. They balanced the tires but I still have the problem.
View 30 Replies
I've had my 2002 Suzuki XL7 for 7 years and about 3 months ago, I noticed that as I go past 55 mph, my car creates this vibration that almost makes me think that it is trying hard to run.
Took it to the mechanic and they diagnosed after test driving and lifting it up that the wheels needed replacement. As it turns out when the car was running while lifted, the rear driver's wheel wobbled. The tires were fairly new, about 3 years old. They suspected some cord separation inside. I went and had all four wheels replaced but the vibration was still there. I took it back and they think rear differential is the problem, either the bearings need to be replaced or the whole differential axle.
The mechanic drained the differential fluid and showed me how it was almost metallic in color. The cost of replacing the bearings is $1100; to replace the whole differential with a used 88K miles, no warranty is $1400 and $1700 with warranty. What do you think is another possible diagnosis for it. I just did not want this to be another wheel incident where it didn't solve the problem. I heard that since it's a 4WD that it may be the drive train also.
View 2 Replies
My wife drives a Suzuki XL7 from 2007 with approximately 70000 miles on board. While driving the engine hesitates and the revs drop suddenly, not much but it is visible on the dash and the car shakes. I have changed the spark plugs, air filter is fine, and it is still doing it. I was thinking about changing the fuel filter however the filter is not serviceable in this car, it is part of the fuel pump assembly. A mechanic checked the fuel pressure and it appears it is fine. There are no warning light on the dash, no check engine light on and the car accelerates just fine if you give it gas. It has no problem starting and I have not noticed doing the same thing while idling, though this issue is intermittent. My wife stated that the problem happens regardless if the engine is cold or hot.
View 11 Replies