Suzuki - Reno :: 2006 - Stumbles Intermittently / No CEL
Oct 2, 2015
My girlfriend has a 2006 Suzuki Reno which is the hatchback version of the much more common Forenza. Mechanically they are the same car. I began to look into this car soon after I began dating her and realized it was simply a rebadged Daewoo product. I attacked the timing belt replacement early on as she had no idea when it was last changed. The old belt was all cracked up and in dire need of replacement when I did the job.
Since then it has just been a lot of small stuff, all things these cars or known for. We are now getting a new symptom. The car sometimes hesitates/stumbles when trying to maintain or gain speed at highway speeds, especially going uphill. There are no check engine lights and I have checked for pending codes. There are none. I figured a misfire would show up but no codes of any kind are present. There was an issue a while back with the evap system purge valve which I cleaned and reinstalled. I don't know if this could be the issue but it isn't throwing the P0496 code anymore like it was before I cleaned it.
These symptoms are very intermittent. She used to always put like 3 gallons of gas in the tank when it got near empty and never fill it up. I got frustrated and told her to fill it to the top at least every once in a while. The first time she did this these symptoms started. I wondered if she busted some varnish loose inside the tank that had not been in contact with fuel for some time. We put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank and it cleared up for a while but returned a few tanks later. It seemed to start as she was nearing the end of a tank and continued for a bit after the fill up.
I am getting the feeling this might be a fuel related issue and not the ignition system. I already looked to see if her fuel filter was replaceable and it is not. It is an in tank one that requires the tank be removed. I would do the fuel pump if I had to do this. My other thought is maybe the fuel pump is getting iffy. I am going to do a loaner tool on a fuel pressure gauge if this happens again as I am wondering about that. Also, I haven't looked into a fuel pressure regulator but that might be something to look into.
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I have a 2006 F-150 SuperCrew King Ranch. The 4R75E automatic transmission has some sort of fault. In overdrive...intermittently...it stumbles or shudders for a second or two. By feathering the throttle...it calms down. If the overdrive is cancelled, the shifting from 1 to 3 is fine. The fluids and filter have been changed.
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2001-F150 5.4 Eng. bucking/stumble. I think my problem is slightly different than what I am reading about. Here is what I get (125k miles):
* Engine only bucks/stumbles intermittently and not at idle or at harder acceleration (this bucking is really harsh and makes the truck feel like a learner trying to drive a manual transmission and it is jumping down the street). The engine stumble is not a regular timing such as a cylinder going out and staying out for a period of time. It is quite a random pattern to the jumping
* Originally thought it was humidity related, but now I realize it happens in any climate
* No stumble in neutral at any rpm... only at a stop if I put it in a power brake load.
* When the stumble shows up, it seems like the throttle is around 10-25% (my best guess)
* Sometimes goes days without issue, but sometimes every ride and virtually every acceleration.
* Normally no stumbling at highway speeds, unless going up a hill.
* Every time it stumbles, it can be eliminated by either backing off on the accelerator some, or hitting the accelerator harder.
* No engine codes or CEL has ever come on
* Fuel mileage appears to be the same before and after the trouble started
Here is what I have done to try to correct it:
-> Fuel related (bad gas)... tried to run the tank as close to empty and fill it with fuel from different stations... when this didn't work, I have added HEET to it to dry up any water in tank.
-> Fuel delivery... replaced the fuel filter... seemed to work for one day, but then the gremlins came back.
-> Fuel delivery... ran multiple injector cleaners through tanks of gas.
-> Intake... replaced the filter.
-> Electrical... I don't believe this is related, but my battery died... parts store tested the system and stated the alternator was bad... replaced it, and took the old one to the parts store for bench testing and it was 100% OK... even thought the old showed OK, I left in the new one as a precaution. Only other item was a set of plug changes around 30k miles ago... I think I put in the super duper Bosch plugs with a lifetime warranty.
Current thinking and items I don't understand:
A) The bucking is so severe, it appears to be a random harsh loss of either fuel or ignition. A component that has failed electrically should give me a fault code with this level of severity. No trouble codes or indicators to electrically sense this disturbance...
B) For the fuel path, the most likely item is bad gas and I emptied my tank by running it as close to empty as possible and then used different gas and HEET to eliminate water. THIS MIGHT STILL BE THE CAUSE???
C) Another one for the fuel path is an intermittent fuel pump electrical connection or a weak pump from a pressure point. But if this is the cause, then why does it dissappear upon harder acceleration?
D) One last fuel thought is injectors... perhaps one or more have a range of delivery that they don't work properly... but this doesn't make much sense as at idle and harder accels are fine
E) From an ignition standpoint, perhaps I have failing COP's. I have not just gone out an replaced them due to my limited budget and the difficulty I read about changing them. Again, if one of these is failing in an either open or short condition, the computer should set a code for a misfire for the related cylinders. I get nothing. Hence my hesitation in making this change so far.
One thing i don't understand from the various posts is that the cops can fail under loading. what makes this happen as electrically, i don't think they can detect a load or not? it is hard for me to also understand why my truck would allow me to back off on the throttle or hit it harder and the issue disappears.
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My '07 seems to stumble when it's shifting from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. At first I thought it was me as I spent the last six - seven years babying the tranny in my old Ford by 'lift shifting' but I've found it still does it somewhat when I'm accelerating and not letting off to let the car shift. Is this typical for the automatic in the Accent? I had the tranny serviced not 1,200 miles ago in June or July at Firestone and they assured me and showed me their fluid was compatible with SP III.
This happens especially when the car's cold or just warmed up. Seems to mostly but not completely go away after driving for a good half hour or so.
I've only got about a week or two left on the warranty but I also don't want to dump money into diagnostic fees if this is how these modern transmissions behave.
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I'm trying to diagnose a stumbling condition in a Hyundai Elantra 2008 with 84,000 miles. Occasionally when driving between 25-40 MPH, the car will shudder/stumble - almost like the engine is trying to shut off. However, it keeps on driving after a few seconds.
I cleaned the throttle body - it was quite dirty - but the problem continues to occur.
I didn't see anything related on several searches.
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Happened in the last few days of Feb/early March last year. Start the car, it coughs, stumbles, and throws a flashing and then steady MIL. This time I shut the car off, counted 10, and ran just fine for the rest of the day. Last year I replaced the battery, but it was ~6 years old anyway.
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After almost an entire year of trouble-free running (with the exception of replacing a ground strap), my 2009 accent decided to start bucking and shuddering again. It only does this when warmed up, runs perfect cold. In the last 16 months, I've replaced the plugs, coils, battery, PCV valve, and ground strap. Car starts with zero hesitation.
Strong battery and starter, consistent output from alternator. After @5 miles, the car stumbles on acceleration, and idles sporadically. While looking at it tonight, I noticed a few exhaust brackets under the car had broken, and the flex section of the intermediate pipe had torn open. Could this presumed exhaust leak be causing the crap running performance?
My "exhausted" brain thought it could cause the O2 sensor to misinform the ECM, resulting in the P0300 code I pulled...
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I have a 2006 Suzuki Grand Vitara with a manual gear box. When I start the car in the morning it tends to shake a bit, especially if I touch the accelerator. Just after starting, I can change up through the gears up to 3rd gear without touching the accelerator. After a while when it warms up, it is fine.
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It will start only in cold days and it does not have the check engine light. The dealership clear some codes, but they were not sure that the code had something to do with it. I have replace Spark plugs and wires. But that wasn't it. And it just winter just start it here in minnesota.
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I have a 2006 Suzuki Forenza with original battery, so it's been about 9.5 years now. Yesterday, I couldn't start the car, and it made a few rapid clicks on trying to start it. I didn't have time to deal with it so took a spare car to work. Came home to check/try the car and it had so little charge that dashboard lights, automatic door locks, etc. didn't work, the warning indicator lights that light up on turning power on barely lit up. Seems like the battery was nearly discharged. I'm attempting to have it charged with an external charger right now to check on the car later (and try to check for parasitic drain), have the battery tested, and bring the car to mechanic for a more thorough inspection (I'm not a car person).
I was just wondering though in the meantime: did I get lucky to get nearly 10 years of life out of a car's factory installed battery? and that it's likely time for a new battery regardless of whether the battery still holds charge? The car was working fine the previous day, I never had to jump start the car. Although I had trouble starting car once or twice in the past, but that just required waiting a bit and attempting to start car again - may have been warm weather related. It just failed yesterday, and I don't recall leaving headlights on or things like that. I'm just wondering had my car been parasitically draining already and just hit a critical point yesterday (slow drain before but faster drain at some point like yesterday), or can parasitic drain just happen all of a sudden like fine one day, then some drain/short the next that kills the battery.
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I recently hear some light noise from AC/heater fan at lowest setting (1) - its like the faint motor noise you might hear in spinning motors (sort of like ticking but not quite). I don't recall hearing it before. At higher speeds like 2+ you hear air blowing out which overpowers any faint noise you might hear. Noticed this while using for heat setting. Haven't tried for AC as its winter now.
So I was wondering if this faint noise is anything to be alert/concerned about in terms of operation of my AC/heat fan. Would hate for it to die on me one day when I need heat/AC.
Car model is Suzuki Forenza 2006, not that it matters I assume.
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I've got 120,000 on my 08 manual Accent. Recently I've been getting white smoke after running it hard. It happens like this. I slow down from 70mph or so with the clutch engaged to about 40mph, then upon acceleration the engine stumbles and white smoke pours from the tailpipe. My guess is a leaky head gasket.
I had the dealer go through it. They pressure tested the cylinders and put a scope in them. They claim nothing is wrong with the engine.
I mentioned since they can vouch for the engine now, I'd like to get an estimate on trade in value. I don't think I want to keep it much longer.
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This new discussion is for owners of 2006 Grand Vitara 4x4 SUV with the automatic transmission. Experiencing a vibration while accelerating between 45-60 MPH. This is an on-going problem for many of us and we need to make sure that Suzuki of America hears us loud and clear, and develops a solution.
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My 06 azera will not crank or start some times. I put the Key in and nothing happens. The lights and radio all the bells and whistles work but the car wont start or crank. I turn the key and nothing, just silence. I take the key out and wait for 2 to 5 minutes at most then the car starts. I have taken it to the dealer and because the problem will not replicate itself for them, they can not fix it.
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Over the last half of the summer my A/C stopped working on three separate occasions. Surprisingly none during the day (~100 at the time) all happened at night. I would drive somewhere with the A/C on with no issue, however when I would get back in my car 5-30 minutes later nothing would come on. The A/C and recirculate light would come on as usual, but no air at all from the vents. I tried restarting the car, checked the fuses, nothing. Then maybe an hour or two later it would come back on. So far this has happened 4 times, with the most recent being a week ago. I took it to a dealer when it first started happening and they could not find anything out of the ordinary. The last time it happened, I drove straight to the dealer, only to have my A/C come on 50 ft from the dealer. Another odd symptom I have seen is when I switch the A/C to the off position occasionally it will come back on for two seconds and shut off. (electrical maybe?) At fan speed two it makes a quiet ticking noise that it didn't make when I first bought the car (though my '01 Accent made the same noise).
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About 2 years ago I had this issue with my ABS and ESC off light would come on intermittently. I took it to the local Hyundai dealer and they did something to correct it. I was under my 5yr/60k when they worked on it. Since then I have not had it light up until today after driving the car thru a car wash. I noticed it after i vacuumed and dried the car that these lights came back on. So down the road i pulled in the fill the gas tank and when i restarted the car the ABS and ESC off light did not come on..
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I have a 2007 Elantra. Sometimes it starts, sometimes not. We've had it to the dealership and a local mechanic. No luck. No one seems to know what the problem is.
The fuel pump has been replaced, a new battery, the relay (?).
When you turn the key it either starts or.... Tries to start and it doesn't' seem electrical because if you pump the gas petal (and you get lucky) it might start after a few times of doing this.
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The ESC OFF light comes on on my 2006 Sonata V6 only when I am driving on a smooth road at highway speeds. It does not happen for weeks in local city driving. The vehicle had the brake light recall work performed, so I don't know why this is happening and I suppose I'll have to go to the dealer to find out. It is now out of warranty, so I'm reluctant to take it there right now.
(This car has had a throttle position sensor replaced, accelerator position sensor replaced, an ignition coil failure,so I'm starting not to trust its reliability. It's not a lemon, but it has forced me to drive in the "limp home" mode at least every 18 months or so...)
I just want to like my Sonata again... What could be causing ESC OFF light?
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My turbos shut down intermittently, after several hours of highway driving and after shutting the ignition off. Upon re-start, the check engine light illuminates and I have no turbos. Letting the car sit (turned off) for several hours will re-set them back into operation. Three visits to the shop have not solved the problem and the technicians have no clues. I don't think the turbos themselves are to blame. More likely the computer is getting a signal from somewhere that is prompting it to set a trouble code and disable the turbos. Is this what is called "limp mode"?
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My partner's SEL (not Premium) with 2.5L sometimes stumbles/"hiccups" from a stop with the air conditioner on. For example, starting off at a traffic light. My partner now says it happens usually while sitting stopped with the ac on.. It's just a momentary hiccup-type thing, but the engine doesn't stop. I have to say, I've ridden in the car with him quite a bit in traffic and it hasn't done that while I've been in the car.
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After having finally taking the mod bait and flashing to stage 1 with no hardware changes a few weeks ago, I'm generally enjoying the newfound urgency that the car possesses, but I'm curious if some low rpm stumbling generally comes along for the ride? It is relatively minor and mostly occurs before the car is warmed up. Seems to be more prevalent in moderate throttle conditions between 2500-3000 rpm.
I have around 400 miles since the tune and wondering if this is something others have noticed as well. Do I perhaps need to give it a bit more time to "learn" or is this the way it is? I initially thought it was at least partly just more of a contrast showing up with the bigger power above 3k, but it is clearly a stumble some of the time, as if the car is choking a bit.
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