Suzuki - Aerio :: Rattle Over Bumps And Faint Clunk On Driver Side When Turning
Dec 9, 2015
The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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2001 chev s-10 pick up with 3rd door.driver's side door[s] rattle over bumps and whatnot, the doors seem to work perfect and hinges are tight,the door alignment is good, and its not a door panel or loose item...its the door[s].
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Minor rattle when going over bumps! It sounds like drivers side rear... I have had a chance to check of anything in the car was loose (spare tire tools etc...). Found my problem, now I just have to confirm its the rear driver seat belt not resting correctly.
1. Intermittent rattle behind driver
-check rear seat belts that they are actually resting on the cushion loop.
-check rear passenger window switch.
-check door strikers
2. Bass rattle front doors
-check with dealer
3. Rattle at rear of car
-check spare wheel and tool compartment.
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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I have a 2007 ES 350, the driver's door doesn't seem to be a snug as it ought to be. Hitting even small bumps seems to cause a jarring of the door. How to snug it up?
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I have a klunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they repleced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there
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I have a klunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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My 03 Camry LE has a weird clunk/rattle in the rear driver side only. This happens when i go over bad portion of road, not like potholes just uneven bad road. When the suspension moves quickly. Car has no weight in back. It sounds like something metal is loose in that side, the other side is tight and makes no noise. The struts were replaced in january by previous owner, someone told me it was the rear links which i replaced and still same issue, checked sway bar bushings and those are good.
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Some time late last year a branch or something managed to rip my filter off my cold air intake.. the check engine light came on and I ignored it, simply thinking I had not tightened the gas cap.
So last week, I went to get my 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX, with 160K miles inspected, and they told me it was through a code that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. Later they find out my filter is just missing.. the clamp and a section of the rubber was still on the tip.. but the rest of long gone.
So I have been driving, 4 or 5K miles with no filter. I buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner, spray it and now my car idles at just under 2K RPM but slowly creeps up to around 3K RPM. It drives fine, but when I pop it out of gear or hold the clutch down. it starts to go nuts.
I put a brand new K&N filter on, I didn't add any oil to it as it didn't say it needed any and it wasn't dry, but not soaked either.
Now when I went to remove my Mass Airflow Sensor, I did remove a couple other parts first by mistake. I fiddled with the temperature sensor inside my cold air intake, but I couldn't get it out due to the rubber ring around it holding it in and sealing it. I also removed the Fuel Injection Manifold Pressure Sensor but I am pretty sure I put it back on fine. and I did remove the Throttle Position Sensor.. so maybe thats my issue?
what should I do to troubleshoot it?
I sprayed wd40 on the throttle above the engine, not sure if it was it or not but my engine was idling at a lower 1800 rmp for a while, still high but not as bad, I took it for a ride around the block and when I got back it was at 3K again, it did run at a steady 20 mph in second gear with my foot off the gass completely.
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Weird problem I've had for some time... The car makes a noise that sounds like a slipping belt and only does so at a speed of 15 mph or more. Its a manual and I know it can't be a belt because I've done a little testing while driving. I'm going down a hill, put it in neutral, turn the engine off completely and coast down the hill and the noise is still there. So nothing in the engine is turning at this point, I'm just rolling. So what is moving at this point that could make such a noise?
It also makes the noise when the engine is running and what's weird is I can almost make it go away (the cycles of the noise become less and less frequent if that makes sense) while in gear if I apply the gas just a touch to a point where I am neither accelerating or decelerating. What this noise might be?
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i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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I have a clunk/rattle in the drivers side front end when I go over a small bump at a slow speed. The dealer said it was the struts - they replaced them along with the upper support thing. Noise still there, next they said it was a worn motor mount - noise still there --
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I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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OK, so I have a 2009 Elantra and have noticed that in the last 2 weeks, there is a severe rattle/clunk when I hit bumps that sounds like it is coming from the back right tire. At times it also sounds like it is coming from the seats. I just can't tell. It has been to 3 different dealers. One said they heard it and suggested it was a loose spoiler....tightened and no change. The dealer I bought it from claims they hear nothing (it is SO noisy!). I went to a dealer today who drove with me and said it may be a defect with struts, etc. They definitely heard it.
So I ask new Elantra owners..could it just be that the Elantra is noisy over bumps? Sounds like my shocks are gone. Super loud when going over bumps. My car is only 6 months old.
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2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
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My driver door is just loose enough to rattle on bumps and it's quite annoying. I've loosened the striker and tapped it in as far as it'll go with the hammer and it is still not tight enough. I need about 1/4 inch more and that's about how worn my striker is. Obviously I need to buy new a new striker based on the wear, but am I the only one with strikers wearing too much to be adjusted and causing rattles ?
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