Suzuki - Aerio :: 2004 - Loud Popping Or Knocking Sound Coming From Front Of Car When Driving
Jun 9, 2012
I have an '04 Suzuki Aerio, and there is a loud popping or knocking sound coming from the front of the car when I drive it. I don't seem to hear it when the car is inert (i.e. idling or traveling in a straight at a constant speed). I hear it intermittently when I accelerate/decelerate or turn. I hear it in drive and reverse. The strange thing is that it seems to go away completely when it is raining, and then come back when it stops raining and things dry out. It has been happening for a month or two. I think it has been gradually getting a bit louder. What could cause this?
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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We just purchased an Aerio for my teenage son. We all just love the car. It is the base sedan with 5-spd. There is one problem we did not notice on the test drive. It seems that when the front windshield was made, there is a slight "wavy pattern" that you can see. While it does not inhibit your vision, it is a little irritating.
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My 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
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I'm wondering, is there a way to disconnect AWD and have my GF's 2003 Aerio SX be driven only by RW or FW drive train?
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While driving our car I heard a loud popping sound and had to call roadside assistance. I was informed that the frame had cracked which probably caused the axle to drop. The car is part of a class action suit for corrosion of the frame. Customer service says that they will cover any damages to the car as a result of problems with the frame. If the local Hyundai asks for payment, Should I have the car fixed and submit the bill to the main office for reimbursement?
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I've noticed that when I've driven, park the car in the garage, turn off the engine, trans in park, a loud popping sound coming from the transmission (?) It sounds as if the car is clicking, popping into gear, although it's in Park. The garage is level and the car is not being moved in any kind of way. I sometimes sit in the car to finish a song or a phone call and I noticed this yesterday.
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Some time late last year a branch or something managed to rip my filter off my cold air intake.. the check engine light came on and I ignored it, simply thinking I had not tightened the gas cap.
So last week, I went to get my 2003 Suzuki Aerio SX, with 160K miles inspected, and they told me it was through a code that the mass air flow sensor was bad.. Later they find out my filter is just missing.. the clamp and a section of the rubber was still on the tip.. but the rest of long gone.
So I have been driving, 4 or 5K miles with no filter. I buy some mass air flow sensor cleaner, spray it and now my car idles at just under 2K RPM but slowly creeps up to around 3K RPM. It drives fine, but when I pop it out of gear or hold the clutch down. it starts to go nuts.
I put a brand new K&N filter on, I didn't add any oil to it as it didn't say it needed any and it wasn't dry, but not soaked either.
Now when I went to remove my Mass Airflow Sensor, I did remove a couple other parts first by mistake. I fiddled with the temperature sensor inside my cold air intake, but I couldn't get it out due to the rubber ring around it holding it in and sealing it. I also removed the Fuel Injection Manifold Pressure Sensor but I am pretty sure I put it back on fine. and I did remove the Throttle Position Sensor.. so maybe thats my issue?
what should I do to troubleshoot it?
I sprayed wd40 on the throttle above the engine, not sure if it was it or not but my engine was idling at a lower 1800 rmp for a while, still high but not as bad, I took it for a ride around the block and when I got back it was at 3K again, it did run at a steady 20 mph in second gear with my foot off the gass completely.
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I do not know much about cars. I tried to consult my owners manual, but no luck. The problem is this. I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with about 73,000 miles on it. When I have my blower on (regardless if hot or cold, ambient, defrost, or AC) and I turn left, my car starts making a "shoof" noise kind of like a large stack of paper falling over. Just today I noticed that the floor of my front passenger area was wet and discovered that there is also a leak or leaks coming down from behind my glovebox when I make these left turns. If I don't have the blower on, there is no noise and (presumably) no leak. The contents of my glovebox are completely dry. I am at a loss as to what is causing this.
What this is, whether it is serious, and can I fix this myself or do I have to take it in? And if I have to take it in to get fixed, how should this problem be described in order to get it fixed properly? I had brought it in to a Midas a few weeks ago about the noise (before I discovered the leak and the air-dependence of the problem) and the guys there said that they heard the noise but thought it was just my wheel rubbing against the wheel well when making sharp turns and that it wasn't that big of a problem.
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Weird problem I've had for some time... The car makes a noise that sounds like a slipping belt and only does so at a speed of 15 mph or more. Its a manual and I know it can't be a belt because I've done a little testing while driving. I'm going down a hill, put it in neutral, turn the engine off completely and coast down the hill and the noise is still there. So nothing in the engine is turning at this point, I'm just rolling. So what is moving at this point that could make such a noise?
It also makes the noise when the engine is running and what's weird is I can almost make it go away (the cycles of the noise become less and less frequent if that makes sense) while in gear if I apply the gas just a touch to a point where I am neither accelerating or decelerating. What this noise might be?
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i just recently went to a mechanic check out my wife's car cause it was vibrating really bad, and a pulley was making a lot of noise... they told me that the alternator bearings were shot, and i needed 4 motor mounts, long story short i changed the alternator.... it wasn't the problem... had them check it again, they said power steering.... i didn't want to waist a couple hours of work again, i checked it myself like i should have done in the first place... and found out it was the tensioner pulley.... so can i get any pointers on how to change the tensioner pulley, cause i tried and i lacked about 1/4" of space to get the bolt out... do i need to drop the engine or raise it? if so how.. 2005 suzuki aerio 2.3L .....
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The car is a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with 68k miles on it. I've owned the car since 25k miles, and performed all maintenance on time. The car was also maintained well before we owned it (receipts). I've taken it to our garage 5 times now, for the same noise. Here is the timeline of events:
1) Two months ago started making two noises (rattle over bumps and a faint clunk on driver's side when turning). Garage replaced control arm assembly on both sides.
2) Took it back a week later because it was still making clunk (It got worse over this week, and then stayed at this level. I can feel it under the driver's side floor board. Sounds like a clunk/cracking noise) and was making a new rattle. Garage said their air wrench was messing up the first day and a heat shield came loose.
3) Another week later, still making clunk and making yet another weird rattle/grinding noise over bumps. Garage said this time that it's another loose bolt on the control arm assembly. Tightened and double checked everything. They seemed apologetic and embarrassed about the loose bolts.
4) Another two weeks later, still making the clunking noise. I take it back and take our mechanic for a ride. He hears it. I call back later that day and they say they can't find anything wrong with it (checked struts, front suspension, and cv joint). I speak with a different mechanic and he tells me "we don't do any fancy hard turning when we take the cars for test drives. We drive them like most people with old cars drive them." This seems to infer, to me, that it's only making this noise because I drive my car hard. Fyi, I drive reasonably. They say they had my mechanic, the other mechanic, the shop owner (who was on vacation that week), and ANOTHER mechanic from a different garage looking at it, and they can't find what's wrong. Bring it back next week.
5) Yesterday, they say they looked everything over and couldn't find anything wrong. Said they would have to diagnose it by feel. I have to work, but my husband picks it up and says they said it's play in the drive shaft causing this noise, and that they didn't seem worried about it. I only paid for the first visit.
Does this sound reasonable? Should I take it somewhere else for a second opinion? It does it on turns weather I'm on the gas or not. I like this car and I'm hoping to keep it for at least a few more years.
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I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
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Experienced a loud "knocking" sound coming from the Passat's front end? It doesn't happen very often, but when it does, it sounds like it's originating from the front axle area. I haven't pinpointed a pattern yet, but it seems to happen when there's additional weight being put on the front end--i.e. at the point of going down a hill to flat, or when initially going up a hill from flat. And no, I'm not bottoming out. Basically, the knock sound is so random/loud/alarming.
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I have been experiencing loud popping and static/feedback sound from my front left speaker or tweeter. I replaced the jbl speaker with used jbl speaker. But it seems that my tweeter is done for as well. No sound comes out of it. Is it best just to replace it with a new jbl tweeter or are there better options that fit with not a lot of work.
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Alright I have this popping sound that sounds like its coming from the front left. It only happens sometimes and at speeds 0 to 20mph ....
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Like the title says... Do any lowered mkvi's have any noises or popping sounds coming from your car's front suspension? The reason I ask is on my MKV R32 I had H&R springs on stock shocks and at low speed full lock turns I had a slight poping noise. Everything on the R was installed right and it only had ~3-4k miles on it when the springs were installed. After doing research it seemed like a fair amount of lowered MKV's had this noise and it was thought to have something to do with the strut bearing.
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My 2008 F-150 recently started making a funny noise from what seems like the front right wheel.
The weird thing is that it will only make the noise while accelerating. The second i take my foot off the it stops. Also, the sound stops if i put it into 4WD and does not happen at all in 4WD.
It has nothing to do with turning or breaking. It only makes the sound in 2WD while my foot is on the gas.
The sound is kind of weird. It sounds like something is loose, and it sounds similar to tin vibrating on metal.
At first i thought it may have been heat shielding rubbing on something, I checked under the truck and found nothing loose.
It's weird that it only happen in 2wd yet in the front end.
Someone had mentioned that it may have something to do with the fact that there is no torque on the front wheels in 2wd and when i put it into 4wd it put torque on it, whatever might be loose then becomes tight.
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I have recently started hearing a knocking sound coming from the front of the car when i am turning. It does not happen with every single turn, but i notice it mainly when i am at a standstill and go to make a relatively sharp turn and give it a good amount of gas. Now I am not trying to do a burnout or fly off the line, but its not a grandma start either. slightly more enthusiasm than your normal daily drive start.
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The last issue I have to tackle with the GS450h is a knocking sound coming from what seems the front wheels and mostly the right wheel. This is when driving over a ditch or uneven road like a cobblestone road.
This issue was present before the RSR down sus springs were installed (i.e. in factory setup) but has since gotten more obvious, probably due to the more rigid suspension. Initially I thought it may have been the brake pads, however when braking harder (beyond regenerative braking system) it remains present. So I think the brakes can be ruled out.
The suspension and wheel setup have been checked by the Lexus dealer three times now and by a suspension specialist. None of them could find a thing wrong with it. What it may be?
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When you turn the interior ac temperature from cool to warm there is a loud knocking noise coming from under the dash. I am new to working on explorers but it seem like its coming from the black box nearest the firewall above the transmission tunnel. When you turn it to cold the noise almost completely goes away. The noise gets even louder when you mess with the selector for "max ac" "head and feet" "feet" etc.
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