Suburban :: Shakiness While Accelerating In Passing Gear At Highway Speed
Jul 14, 2012
I just had four new LT E rated tires installed (balanced). Alignment is good and did not require adjustment. Tires are correct size for the vehicle. I noticed during an extended highway trip yesterday that the truck (94 K1500 Suburban) seemed to shake or rather bump slightly when I was accelerating to pass in the sixty-five to seventy-five mph range. Almost seemed like driving on a fine washboard. I looked at the balancing weights which on three of the wheels appear to be nearly the same size. Then I noticed the right front weight is obviously larger than the other three. Could this be the problem?
There's a bit of a story here. (Isn't there always?) I bought the tires from one source (whom I would never trust to do any repairs) and had a shop I deal with regularly close to home install them. The morning after the install I went to check the pressure cold and discovered that the right front tire was a standard tire while the others were the LTs which the bill showed I had paid for. So I missed this when I bought them (they threw them in the back of the truck after assuring me all four were the same) and my mechanic missed it when they were installed. Now the tires do look almost identical but the lettering on the standard tire was black both sides while the LTs were white on one side. Of course the standard tire has a lower maximum psi rating.
I went to the mechanic first and he admitted to noticing this but I guess it just didn't register with him to double check to see if it was actually a different tire before mounting it?! I should say I am having second thoughts about using this shop in future, especially after they under inflated the tires at 30psi as well. When I told him I was running 45psi he looked at me like I was from Mars but then, upon checking his Mitchell Manual he says that yes, this truck should have 45 to 65 psi. Anyway, the guys who sold me the wrong tire made good on the problem however they installed and balanced it and I'm wondering if they got this part wrong hence the vibration I'm getting at around seventy-five.
The work order from the guys who installed the tires also states I need two upper ball joints, pitman's arm and left outer tie rod and alignment (which I understand is standard when doing this job). Now I had them show me this and while I'm no mechanic I could see the play in the ball joints was extremely minimal and pitman arm almost negligible (the mechanic had a lot of trouble showing me this had any play at all and admitted he had seen much worse). The boot on the left outer CV joint is also split and missing its grease. I'm not saying the suspension is perfect but I think they are on a fishing expedition here and I am skeptical this is what is causing the vibration at high speed because I never noticed it until the new skins were applied.
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I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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Had the front end axle replaced due to a boot that was ripped on the CV joint. Three months later the front end is vibrating while increasing speed and passing. The shop is telling me its my transmission?! Doesn't sound right to me. So i take it to another shop and they say its the axle. Okay its under warrenty but the other shop says its the transmission.
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So when I try to kick into 'passing gear' in this '01 f250 5.4l, i get no tranny shift. Whether I'm in tow/haul mode or not.
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When I "step on it" on the freeway or even a moderately inclined freeway ramp, it bogs down and actually takes a few moments to cover. Sometimes will leave me crawling at about 20mph for a few minutes. Engine revs just fine in neutral. If I very slowly build up speed I can cruise at 75mph, but forget passing. Also, this came along at the same time a severe shaking/shuddering spell started. Not always, but often it is shaking the entire body and certainly through the steering wheel. Was so bad the first time I stopped to see if I had a flat. Usually lasts until I slow way down and ease my speed back up. Had the front end steering structure replaced about two years ago, so I don't think it is that. What is the cause of the bog down and could the shaking be related? This truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time and then I drive for about 50 miles and park it again. Can Michigan gasoline go bad that quickly?
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I have a 04, f-250, with a 6.0 liter engine. I have had the Cat removed and in the last couple months it has developed a sneeze like hesitation just before it down shifts to Passing gear, If I push my foot into the fuel it jumps right down thru the sneezing into passing gear. I have changed fuel filter and grade A cleaned my EGR valve. the only Codes it throws is P0403 and P0405.
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On cruise control, engine went dead immediately after passing gear kicked in. After 2 days on the side of the road got a pull to the house. Then after having a charger on it over night the electric seems to be messed up. Switched on, the dash lights light full strength for a fraction of a second before appearing as thought the battery is real low. Also the doorlocks act crazy. I think maybe I blew out the BB on the high oil pressure pump.
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When passing or going up small inclines on freeway, my F250 seems to make the shift to the passing gear but then almost a complete loss of power. Jerks around for a few seconds and finally provides enough power to at least get back to the original speed. (It feels kind of like the lurching, etc. I used to get when those stinking GM diesel injectors would act up in the 1990's.)
It also stays in first/second as I punch it while entering the freeway and doesn't want to make the shift. I can put it in neutral and race the engine, so I don't think it is an engine problem, unless the transmission is electronically controlled. I have a lot of computer dashboard gauge resets after falling to zero and sometimes have to set and release the parking brake to get the auto door locks and windows to work. (That started after a car break in where the door electronics were apparently pinched, but that was a couple of years ago.)
Does it sound like the transmission or electronics? In the old days replacing an automatic transmission filter seemed to fix a lot of transmission issues. Not an option now, but would I expect to see any results doing a transmission flush and fluid change? It's probably been about 60000 since I had that done. (157000 now).
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I have a 4r100 on in a 99 7.3 4x4. The shifting problem I have appears to be intermittant. it seems loose after warm up especially at the 4th shift overdrive and passing gear. possibly due to low presures ? sometimes (lately more often than not) hunts back and forth between 4th and o.d when passing or hill climbing. Under normal driving it shifts somewhat firm with 4th being an exeption.I have changed my crank position sensor filters and fluids which had turned dark and improved slightly. When I pulled the pan and replaced the filter the pan was spotless. No residue or signs of plates or debris. There is about 100,000 miles on the tranny and 350,000 on the truck. Questions: Is there a tcm for this transmission and if so could it cause these problems? I'm considering a purchase of an unlocked 1705 superchip to change the shifting but unsure if this will work for my issues...
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Ok so this is something I can't quite wrap my head around. I have a 1999 K1500 Suburban, 5.7L. I have only owned it a few months. The thing is, shortly after I got the truck, we took it out of town, where it died after a little over an hour of driving at highway speeds. I had punched the odometer to watch the gas mileage, and we had run it about 70 miles when it died. We got it to our friend's house, where we were headed anyway, and stayed over, planning to look at it in the morning because it was later than part stores stay open in our rural area. Thing is, in the morning it fired right up. So we headed home, and once again, after about another 70 miles, it shut down and refused to crank.
This time it happened as we were coming back into town, and on a hunch I said that something must be overheating for the problem not to be present until after an hour of road time. So we pushed it a safe distance off the road, and went and grabbed something to eat. After about an hour we made it back to the truck and success! It cranked back up and we made it the rest of the way home. Since I have driven it to town and back, and to my parents a few times, but never more than thirty or forty miles away. It never hesitates to crank, and sounds ok running. Although I will say, I have not owned a truck before or a V8, but it seems to not have the power it should (my thunderbird with a 3.8L had more punch), and I did noticed both times this happened that that problem seemed more pronounced right before it died. But I don't know if I just feel that way just because I am used to driving cars, and the truck is heavier. When it dies, you hear the starter relay click, and that's it.
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My 1999 GMC Suburban just started "catching" when accelerating uphill and going 50+ mph. Does not occur any other time.
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I have a 1997 Oldsmobile 88 (174K miles, owned only by my father-in-law and then me) with which I am experiencing a hesitation problem from time to time at highway speed. My mechanic has taken the car on several highway test drives throughout the last two days, and he has been unable to reproduce the problem. Furthermore, he has done a full diagnostic test and found no problems with the fuel system, ignition system, or anything else.
Here are the conditions under which the problem occurs:
---Attempting to accelerate gradually at highway speed (usually from 50-60 mph), but WITHOUT pushing the gas pedal down so far as to cause the transmission to downshift
---Engine fully warmed up (temp gauge at 200 F or just below)
---Occurs more often when I have been driving for at least 1-2 hours
The condition is as follows:
---Car lurches/surges noticeably and does not accelerate
---Speedometer needle reflects the lurching by fluctuating up and down about 1 to 2 mph
---Accelerates well if I step down hard enough to cause the transmission to downshift, or stops surging if I lift off the gas pedal
---NO Check Engine light at any time
Some history on the car and corrective actions taken:
---June 2009: My mother-in-law was driving the car about 6 hours into our trip and it consistently hesitated between 50 and 55 mph with the Check Engine light on for the last 30 miles or so of our trip. The next day, we took the car to the dealer where my in-laws had their cars serviced (note the past tense here), where they told us that "there's probably something wrong inside the transmission" and suggested that we replace the transmission with a new one. This transmission is the second new one the car has had (replaced the first time at 95K miles), meaning that this transmission had less than 80K miles at the time. We took the car to a local shop at the referral of a friend, and this mechanic suggested we try flushing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter to see if that would fix the problem before we started talking about replacing the whole transmission. This worked, and we were glad that we did not have to get rid of the car. Did not notice any more problems with this for over a year.
---May 2010: Experienced engine misfire, had spark plug wires replaced. Problem solved.
---March 2011: First noticed my current problem. Had fuel filter replaced (it was probably a little overdue) and had the mechanics do a fuel system cleaning.
---April 2011: Problem still occurs.
---Had throttle body thoroughly cleaned, which fixed a slight sticking in the gas pedal.
---Replaced spark plugs myself. Car running more smoothly overall, but the hesitation still occurs.
---Inspected all three ignition coil packs myself. Top coil pack had some rust on the poles, which caused the resistance to measure as zero. Cleaned most of the rust off the poles, after which all three packs bench tested at 6.23 (with 20000 ohm setting on multimeter). Car runs even more smoothly overall, but hesitation persists.
At this point, my mechanic and I are both stumped as to what could be causing the hesitation problem. My only thought right now is to try replacing the one coil pack that had rust on it, since a pack with a fault I can see may have others inside that I can't see, and maybe something like this is flaking out on an intermittent basis.
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I need figuring out the speed sensor on my 96 ,k1500 series,5.7,4*4,automatic.. Where is it located...
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I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
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2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
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I have a 1995 Chevrolet Suburban that the a/c fan speed works on every position except high. I have replaced the resistor and the fan speed switch. Neither of those things fixed the problem. With the connector off the blower motor and a test light attached, power is present in all positions except high. When switched to the high speed position power is not present in the lead.
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I have a 98 Suburban with a 4l60e rebuilt 13 months ago, less than 15000 miles since. I have no second gear at all, but still no apparent slip at all in fourth. R,1,3 are fine. The fluid is a bit dark red, smells normal. There was a bit of the grey paste on the magnet but no obvious trauma. I did find a very small copper wire in there. It's about a 22 gauge, looks like it could have been a 3/8" ring or retainer.
I've replaced the servo, and of course fluid and filter. I pulled off the housing for the 1-2 piston but didn't have the right part to replace. I did not see anything cracked or cocked, it came out and went in fine. The main o ring did look fairly warn, but seemed all-right.
A transmission tester showed second gear being called for on a test drive. I did get a P1870 slippage code a couples weeks ago, I have since cleared it and it has not returned. Could the copper 'ring' be a retainer for something related? I'm guessing the solenoid, but I believe it also applies to 4th gear.
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1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
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