Suburban :: Power Window Will Work For 5-10 Seconds Upon Initial Startup
Mar 18, 2012
I have a '94 Chevy Suburban with a driver's side power window problem. The window will work for 5-10 seconds upon initial startup but once I stop and try to restart, the window won't do anything. If I pull up on the window while pressing the window switch it will start working again whereas I can let go of the window and keep the button depressed until I reach the desired level I want the window to be. At times I get nothing up or down by pressing the switch leading me to believe it's the motor. It seems to have the most trouble going up rather than down. I am not sure what the problem is, i.e. regulator, motor, electrical relay.
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From time to time I get this high vibration on start-up of the car. It almost seems like more of the engine noise and vibration is coming through to the cabin. It only lasts about 5 seconds from initial start up and the rpm does not change and stays constant. This only happens maybe once every other week or once a month. What or why this could be happening?
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First bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
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When I start my truck up initially and it's somewhat cold, like even if it hasn't run for just a few hours, it seems to gargle when I get on it. I'm not slamming it while it's cold but even just trying to accelerate. Code is egr flow insufficient, the truck isn't egr deleted, I've had it for 150,000 it's got 211 now. I just clean out the egr every 15-20k and it's been great until now. Once it warms up it sounds and runs perfect.
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My 06 6.0 is blowing a fair amount of blueish, whitish smoke only on initial startup, then continues to blow smoke slightly for around 10 min until it's warmed up. It seems to be getting a little worse as time goes on, only on startup though. truck has no other issues otherwise, has an egr delete, and some old edge tuner. I don't think it's head gaskets, no other symptoms.
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I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
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What causes elevated engine idle when cold or initial startup? Asking another way, what would cause it not to have the elevated idle on start up?
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My front passenger window switch seems to have died. Where is the easiest/cheapest place to get one right away?
1996 1500LT, window works fine when I use the driver door switches.
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I've dreaded the day I would receive the Red Triangle. It occurred upon initial start up this morning.Could this be brake system related as 3 weeks ago I got my front brakepads/ rotors replaced. Since then the front brakes have been grabbing to the point that my wife will ask me about the noise when she's in my car.
The hybrid battery indicator is always many blue bars and green with no wild flucuations. I'm getting between 48-51 mpg's. For general maintenance I installed the Optima Yellow top about 4 weeks ago. Oil is full, coolant inverter reservoir is full with tuburlant motion and was replaced under recall 2 years ago. The transaxle fluid was changed 20k miles ago.
So back to the brakes. I have the Red Triangle with !, VSC.
2008 Prius, 184K. Well maintained, 85% highway miles
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I have a 1977 GMC Suburban with a power rear window in the tailgate.It has become very hard for the motor to open or close the window and it makes a screeching sound when being operated. Does the interior window frame need lubricated or is it rubbing on something?. I know there is a access plate on the inside of the tailgate but the window denies access to the inside of the tailgate. Is there a way to open the window when the tailgate is open so I can access the interior of the tailgate?.
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Noticed a water sloshing sound coming from under the dash on initial start up when the ice engine comes on? I found a few things from searching, but nothing really conclusive. I didn't think much of it at first. Like maybe water was just coming up into the heater core or something. It doesn't do it all the time, but often enough that I'm starting to wonder if I should get it checked out.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry with only 56,000 miles on it and I have noticed that the engine has been very sluggish on start-up first thing in the morning. This happens only when the weather gets cooler and is worst in winter. Warm weather, no problem. After I back out the driveway, I have to step on the accelerator 2-3 times before the car will go forward. The engine sounds like it's straining. After initial start-up, no problem. Now, lately I have begun seeing blue smoke coming from the exhaust . . . again only on initial start-up in the morning.
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New owner of a 2014 Sonata SE and wondering about the initial navigation "drive safely" warning that comes up every time I start the car. It requires I acknowledge it, is there any way to make that go away?
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Today I decided to do some maintenance on the truck as it needed an oil change and some other unrelated misc stuff.
1. I seafoamed the engine thoroughly. I bought two cans of this stuff, half of a can went into the fuel, another half can in through the brake booster vacuum hose, and I dumped a full can of into the oil. Took it for a 30 minute drive, let the ol' gal smoke as it usually does on a seafoam, and then changed the oil. No noises, I noticed immediately improvement in acceleration.
2. Upon intial startup after the oil change, I thought the motor was coming apart. It was only for about two seconds, (i was counting to make sure) if it didn't have oil pressure and no noise by 3, I was shutting it off. It hasn't done it since.
Is it possible I just knocked some crap loose in the heads causing the oil drain a lot faster into the pan than I expected? I'll try it again in a few hours after everything has cooled off and oil has drained back into the pan, but I wanna make sure I didn't damage anything. Still drives good, no problems, no noises since.
The last oil change I did, I didn't do a Seafoam, but I figured with winter coming it's a good idea to get her running in top form. I used Pennzoil Platinum 5w20, with a Motorcraft oil filter for those wondering.
Truck has 133K on the clock, and it's had the slight cam phaser tick since I've purchased it, no other problems. I bought it almost a year ago.
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I have the 1.8L engine with automatic transmission and when I start my car, it has a loud grinding sound that lasts about 3-5 seconds. The Initial rpm after you start the car also idles around 1800-2200 rpm for almost 10 seconds before it goes back to 1000rpm.
The high idling also stops if you shift it into Drive (D) or Reverse (R) but in Neutral (N) it will jump back up to the high idle.
This started occuring november of last year. At first I took it to dealership but they could not diagnose it because they never heard the sound. It ONLY happened when it was cold below 30 F, but recently it has been becoming MORE and MORE frequent and now almost happens everytime I start the car. But it won't happen if the outdoor temperature is above 60 degrees or if I start the car shortly after I shut the engine off (like a 2-3 hour break in between).
I thought it might be a loose flywheel, bad torque convertor, or a faulty electronic throttle control system. I do NOT think it is the starter because it starts everytime even on the coldest of days just that the grinding sound is annoying.
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My drivers side power window does not work as if its getting no electricity. I bought a new regulator, plugged it in and it still does not work. I bought the 4 switch console, replaced it and still it does not work. The 3 other windows work though.
I checked the fuse, its fine. I am wondering where the electrical current could be stopped. Also, where could I get a schematic of the window pins so I can check the voltages and what each pin does?
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Just my luck, bought a brand new 2015 plug in and realized after 1 day the driver's windows doesn't roll down on auto, and the passenger side roll down doesn't work at all. Car only had 6 miles on it when I drove off the lot.
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I found one fuse is blown. It's located under the driver side labeled "gauge." However, if I replace with good one (10A), it will be blown again once I turn on the power.
The gas indicator and back lights will work in the combination meter. The rests (turn-on check up indicators, coolant temp, odometer) won't work. The moonroof and power window don't work, either. Radio/CD does work. Engine has no problem to start.
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I have a 04 explorer I have been trouble shooting and the master switch works all but the passenger window wont work it at all but all the others work fine, its not the switches replaced both, the passenger window switch will roll the window down but not back up. I checked for power there is power to the switch in the passenger side, the ground is good. I can pull the plug off the motor and hook a jumper ground up and the switch will make it go back up. I have been working in body shops for 40 years and now this is the first one to stump me
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My work horse is singing me the blues. It will idle correctly for 1 - 2 sec., then approach death, then idle correctly again for 1 - 2 seconds. It responds as expected when the throttled of opened for 1 - 2 seconds, any longer it will begin to die. This is what I have done so far.
1. Changed the fuel filter. Did not check to see of water was in the filter as I only purchase gas from name brand gas stations. Did not think I could get bad gas from them.
2. Check MAP sensor, voltage signals were close. Changed it out any way. No change.
3. Checked the Engine Coolant Sensor, it is sending the correct voltage.
4. Checked the Idle Air Control Valve. The impedance is as called for in the Chilton repair manual.
5. Checked the Throttle Position Sensor. It appears to be sending the correct voltage as the throttle is opened and closed.
6. Overhauled the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Replaced the spring, diaphragm, and gaskets.
7. Overhauled the Throttle Body. Removed the injector, cleaned all passages with solvent and compressed air. Did not soak the injectors.
In my mind, all that is left is the fuel pump or maybe I did get bad gas.
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My vehicle does not lock the rear window glass on the left gate. All other locks work fine. The rear lift gate glass just slams and nothing.
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