Suburban :: On Braking ABS Often Activates When Nearly Stopped
Dec 6, 2007
My 1999 suburban has some braking issues. When braking the abs often activates when I am nearly stopped. It is like it is not seeing a sensor or something. It only does it at slow speed.
How does the abs work? What conditions have to exist to activate the abs motor? Brake pedal actuated and missed sensor signal (locked wheel)? What does the sensor pick up on the front wheels? rear wheels?
I intent on replacing pads and shoes (rotors and drums if nec) but I am afraid that this may not even be part of the problem.
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The ABS is acting up sometimes. It activates when I am not braking, or it resets itself from time to time, or I can hear it making some noise (d d d d d d d d ....) from time to time. And the brake light doesn't come up.
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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When turning right, it seems as if my brakes don't want to work. There is somewhat of a grinding sound and what I can only describe as a "shutter" from the pedal. They work great going straight or turning left. I should also mention that the steering locks up when turning sharply, haven't noticed if it's only when turning a certain way. This happens mostly when backing up. Also, the ABS light is on occasionally. I drive a '96 GMC Suburban.
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My engine revs up no matter if the thing is hot or cold when I come to a stop at a red light, SOMETIMES. Other times it will idle at 100 and then wants to idle around 1000 and has idled as high as 1200. I've been told EGR, TPS, Idle Control Motor, or Intake gaskets. I did have a code 22 which occurred after a friend unplugged the TPS and reconnected it, but no other codes or check engine lights. Tuned engine 2 weeks ago, but problem still persists. Where do I start and what equipment do I need. I am a professional diesel tech, but not so much with gas.
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I own a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7. The front blower motor stopped working on all speeds so I replaced the resistor, it still did not work. I then replaced the speed selector switch and it started working fine. Three days later I smelled a slight electrical burning smell and the fan stopped working again. I plan on replacing the switch again to see if that is what went bad. Whats causing this to happen? Maybe the motor is going bad and causing the switch to short?
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Not sure it is a problem. In fact i don't think it is, but I noticed it the other day when I felt a slight jerkiness when reversing.
The ECO quickly blinks whenever I hold the break down while not moving, but when I let off the break it doesn't flash. Normal?
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Is there a way to resume cruise control once it is stopped by braking or hitting the cruise button? My other vehicle saves it so that it can be resumed but I don't see this option in the Azera and have to set it up again every time.
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Do any (specifically a 2001.5 1.8T) Passats have a fuel cutoff switch that activates during a crash? Someone I know was telling me about such a device in new cars. He was telling me that is why when you see an accident where someone should be able to drive to the side of the road (like the spin out we saw today when someone biffed the concrete barrier) they lust sit there waiting for a tow. He said there is usually a secret button somewhere in the car to reset the pump. I thought it would be good to know if my car had one, just in case.
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I get these weird days when the Alarm system on the Phaeton would go off by itself. The car was locked and in my driveway when it decided to go crazy on me.
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i have an 04 Phaeton and I've replaced the battery in the keyfob and now my car won't crank. The first message said the battery was empty and now it say system fault workshop with a key symbol.
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I have two simultaneous problems with my 2005 Elantra (automatic transmission). I don't know if the problems are related or not, or if they are alarming or not.
Background on the car: timing belt and water pump replaced in 2010; four tires new in 2010; oil changes every 5000 km.
The first is that my engine is making this 'whirring' sound when I approach 80km/hr. It's not high-pitched, but more of a droning noise. Having read around the forums, I see that Elantras commonly make funny engine noise, but this is fairly new to my car (145,000 kms) and definitely not there at all when idling or at low, city-street speeds.
Additionally, I have a weird vibrating noise coming from the front left of the car only when I am dead stopped and the brakes are fully depressed. It doesn't make this sound in park, and I don't hear it until the car has come to a complete stop; there is no odd noise while slowing down.
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Two weeks ago I had to brake suddenly while driving in town and my A/C immediately stopped cooling although the fan continued to work. I drove it home and the next morning when I started my car the A/C worked fine. It was working fine until yesterday when I was driving and again had to brake suddenly to pull over after taking a wrong turn. The A/C immediately went out again. Only this time the A/C didn't ever start working correctly again.
2003 Honda Accord EX - A/C problem related to hard and sudden braking?
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We moved to a new home two months ago.My 2009 elantra alarm randomly goes off only between 9:30pm and 8:30 am and only when in my garage or driveway. Dealer "adjusted hood sensor" and it still activates. Seems the issue must be in my garage as didn't happen prior to moving and happens no where else. I disconnected the garage remote wireless sensor tonight to see if that could be culprit.
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I have a 1999 ranger 4x4 , when I'm going to a slow final stop the abs kicks in ,doesn't do it every time , there's no abs warning light , took it to the ford dealer they scanned it and said it was the left front hub & bearing assembly, said the sensor wasn't reading the back of the bearing assembly. I can't understand way the abs light isn't on, is there anyway to clean that they want to replace the hub & bearing, Is a use hub & bearing replacement a good way to go? They told me I could pull the fuse and kill the abs, but I find three fuses I pull aII three and got a speed sensor check engine code. I hate to replace that hub & bearing when there's no problem with the bearing ,Is there any way to deactivate the abs, by the way it's 4 wheel abs.
1999 FORD RANGER 4X4 4.0......
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While driving in 2H, my tow/haul feature comes on (light on gear shift glows)
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I just had the rear air compressor suspension replaced, but when it activates it sounds pretty noisy. It doesn't sound normal. What the heck is going on?
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I have a 2000 Chevy Impala and it seems that every now and then when I try to start the car the security feature activates and I have to wait 10 mins to try to start it again. On some occasions when the 10 mins are up and I try to start it the feature reactivates and I wait another 10 mins. This actually happened on a ferry ride and I held up the offloading of vehicles. My question is, Will a remote starter installation alleviate this issue? If not. What can I do?
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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Our 2015 Prius 4 with 8,900 miles just suddenly stopped chirping and turning the lights off upon locking. The courtesy lights also no longer work (the lights worked last night as I approached the car but not tonight. The locking chirp/beep worked 3 hours ago but not now. Also headlights no longer go out after double clicking lock on either of the 2 fob.)
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I've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
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