Suburban :: Front Blower Motor Stopped Working On All Speeds
Mar 2, 2013
I own a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7. The front blower motor stopped working on all speeds so I replaced the resistor, it still did not work. I then replaced the speed selector switch and it started working fine. Three days later I smelled a slight electrical burning smell and the fan stopped working again. I plan on replacing the switch again to see if that is what went bad. Whats causing this to happen? Maybe the motor is going bad and causing the switch to short?
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Turning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
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I have a Full Size 93, 5.8L Van. The blower motor has stopped working. I have checked the fuzes, ok. I have checked the Power Distrubution Box, ok. I do have power to my Aux (rear) blower. I have hot wired my blower motor, it works. I have no power to the blower motor, thermal limiter, or to the fan control switch on the dash. (Like I said, the Aux on the dash works). What else is there?
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My blower motor in my Jetta recently stopped working. When I turn on the blower it works for 10 seconds or so then slows down and dies. Is this a blower motor or resistor problem?
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Got a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
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The air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
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My air conditioning has stopped working and the dealer tells me the blower motor has frozen up. This car only has 73k on it. Is this common to the 2005 Touareg or ?????
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I've read quite a few threads on this subject and came across the resistor, fuses, and relays. I have some fundamental testing procedure questions.
1. To test the resistor, it says to back probe the brown/orange wire to check for voltage. So I'm assuming I would hook up my positive lead, here?
Do I really need to hook up the black lead all the way to the negative terminal on the battery? Just with a long extension? Or is there somewhere else I can hook the black lead to? (I know, how dumb!)
2. I downloaded owners manual, but I can't seem to find a fuse or relay specifically for the blower, so what fuse and what relay is it?
3. In the Haynes manual, it says locate the blower motor relay, in the relay box under the center dash panel, where the hell is that?
4. Do I need to remove the glove box to access the resistor and blower hosting.
5. Anything else I should know?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Suddenly the blower-motor stopped working. I looked at the under-hood fuse panel and noticed a few of the fuses in the fuse bus-bar were blown, however I'm not sure how the bus-bar is removed. Is this most likely my blower-motor problem? If so, how do I replace those fuses?
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Well, let me rephrase that, the AC works but blower motor doesn't. When you put your hand up to the vents, they're cold.
Long story short, I ran my AC on MAX on way home from work, driving time of approx. 35 minutes. I got home, showered, and got back into car to go downtown to store. It was then I discovered that the AC wasn't coming on, and it was still on max. I shut it off and turned it back on, but to no avail. I checked all related fuses, or at least what I think is related and checked my "Taurus Bible" the chilton manual. I swapped out a blower motor relay and it didn't work, but i'm not sure that relay was or was not good, it was out of a '96 E-250 at work.
So now I get out my test light. I pulled the connection from blower motor, connect it and turn on AC and light comes on. Vents are getting cooler. So I get my tool and pull the radio and climate control assembly. I pull the plug to the actual fan connection, the part that connects to the fan switch that controld fan speed. I'm getting nothing there.
Is there a relay I don't know of? I know the AC still works because vents are still getting cold, but I can't get air to move. A LONG time ago it did this but "corrected" itself. What is my next step? I'm not sure what to check next and my repair manual is leaving me in a boat with no oars.
More details of car:
1996 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6 Vulcan motor, 8th VIN is UAUTO188,000 miles
White 4 door gray interior 3 car seats
GoodYear Tires inflated to : 33lbs LF34lbs RF36lbs RR35lbs LR
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Recently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
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First bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
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I have a 2001 GMC Jimmy and I am having an issue with the blower motor. Speeds 1 and 2 do not seem to work. Speeds 3 and 4 work fine. This is the manual climate control not the automatic. I searched and it seems everyone usually has a problem with the high speeds & not the low speeds...
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2004 Prius, 135,000 miles.
About a month ago, the blower motor stopped coming on all the time. A quick whack under the glove box fixed it when it didn't start. Then about a week after that, I felt like the AC wasn't really warming when needed. This may have been true earlier, but it hasn't been that cold around here, so I wouldn't have noticed, perhaps.
About a week ago, I start hearing what I might describe as a rattling kind of noise I had never heard before sometimes under hard acceleration. Not always. Didn't hear the noise tonight, for example. Of course, then, tonight, on the interstate, the warning light pops up for just long enough for the temperature indicator to flash up. It quickly disappeared, but in the remaining two minutes I was driving, it flashed up briefly twice more.
Now, in digging around on this topic, I've read about issues with the inverter coolant pump, and that there was a recall. How could I find some information on this recall? I don't remember ever having it changed, so I'm just curious what I might need to say to get that swapped out under a recall if appropriate.
Also, based on what I've said, does it seem likely that the issue is with that pump? It sure seems to fit the bill, but who knows. I'll be bringing the car in ASAP but I'd naturally like to be armed with as much information as possible.
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I have a 2008 mountaineer that the blower motor runs on full blast no matter what. The switch bars go up and down but blower motor does not change speeds. also upon opening the hood I found 2 large mouse nests ,1 on passenger side fender and 1 center of engine towards the back. Are these related or could it be a switch issue. How to remove switch and test it.
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Several weeks ago, the blower motor in my 2010 stopped blowing. It came on within a day or so, but failed again, so I replaced it with a new part from Rock Auto: TYC 700249.
The new fan just stopped again. I plugged the harness in and out several times and it did briefly come on a few times, but clearly something else is going on.
I don't know if it's relevant, but after I took out the OEM fan, I experimented by removing the plate from its back that has wires and capacitors (actually, I don't know what I'm talking about) and connected the main prongs directly to a 12V battery. It came on right away. I installed the new fan anyway, figuring it was the plate/wires assembly portion that was bad. The "resistor?"
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My HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
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My a/c has not been working so we added R134a yesterday and it fixed the problem just like it did last summer. Once I was finished I left the a/c on high when I shut my car off. This morning when I left for work it was too cold so I turned it to the "off" position. On my drive I decided to turn the a/c on and make sure it was still getting cold at which point nothing happened, absolutely no air (hot or cold) was blowing out. I kept turning it on and off and at one point the a/c did start working again at which point I turned the fan speed to low. A few minutes later the blower completely quit working again. Nothing works at any speed, any position regardless of heat or a/c. Absolutely nothing is blowing out of my vents. I can hear something that sounds like opening and closing when I change the position/type of a/c/heat but the other than that the only sound is a "shhhhhhh" when I turn it to the off position. Where to start on diagnosing and fixing this issue?
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I got a new resistor since my last one was in a puddle of water and installed that today and still have no heater blower motor. I checked all the fuses and have power. I sent power to the blower itself and it spins good. So somewhere between the fuse and the blower it isn't working. I need to take the controls out and test for power there. Didn't have time to do that today. What wires to check or where to start trouble shooting?
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Blower motor has stopped working on my 2008 jetta 2.0. Motor works fine and I have traced the issue back to the fan switch connector which is not getting power. Seems like it should be a fuse issue, but they all seem to check out fine. Not sure where else to look. Is there a relay upstream that could be bad? I have owned since new and it has never been apart.
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A few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
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