Suburban :: Engine Stutters And Sometime Stalls Only In 3rd And 4th Gear
Apr 16, 2013
I have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.
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2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
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I have a Puzzler-worthy issue going on with my 2002 Jeep Liberty (LTD, 4WD, V6). A few weeks ago, it started to stutter when slowing down to a stop, and then -- after a few times of doing that -- began the bigger problem of completely stalling out/shutting off once at a stop (in traffic, at a light/stop sign). It starts up fine and idles fine from a stopped position; it's only when I drive and slow down and come to a complete stop that it has the issue. The shop I go to is a great Jeep-based shop, and they've:
1) serviced the (quality, few-year-old Interstate brand) battery. Initially, it was a bit drained, but they charged it up and made sure nothing else was draining it. I went to drive it home but it had the issue, so brought it back.
2) cleaned the idle control sensor. They found it was a bit gummed up, affecting airflow under 10MPH. Said that did the trick for them with multiple test drives but then I went to drive it home last night and it did some stuttering on the way home when I started coming to a stop. I tried not to get frustrated; "Maybe it's going to stutter a wee bit now and then," I thought. "No complete stall-outs = good." But this morning driving to work it stalled out nearly every time I came to a stop. I took it back in and they're going to keep investigating.
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Just started doing it last week some time and only happens when I am launching it from stop or grabbing gears hard.
This is a little idea on whats happening.. At stop light next to some random ricer.. maintaining 2500 rpms on tach
drop (stage 4) clutch on green
Car squeaks and dies out like a stall and dash lights flash as well as lights on controll/radio area (around abs light) radio shuts off like a stall.
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So I leave town Friday with the wife's car for a golf tournament that is 4 hours away. I left her with my 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 5.4L. She calls as I am starting my practice round on Friday stating that the truck had died on her in the local Dillons parking lot. She had driven to the east side of Wichita, then drove all the way back to the west side before swinging into Dillons to get some chinese food for lunch. When she gets in the truck to leave, she starts it and it runs rough.
She gave it gas and it ran fine for a few seconds, she put it in drive, and then it started running rough again. She stopped the truck in the parking stall ahead of her, turned it off, and restarted it. Same thing...runs rough. She tried giving it gas, but it would not go above 1500 rpm. Then it just died on her. She then tried cranking it, but it would not turn over. She let it sit overnight and got a ride from a friend (it was 102 degrees out), went back the next morning to try again. Same thing, just cranks. So I get back last night and go up with my scanner. No codes, no SES/CEL.
So, I am now thinking it is the fuel pump. I crawled underneath the truck and had her turn the key so I could see if I can hear the fuel pump. Nothing. I went ahead and disconnected the battery to let it sit overnight.
I am about to head up there and see what I can do. So far, here is my list of things I need to check:
1. Fuel pump relay #301
2. Fuel pump fuse #18
3. Check for the theft light
4. Check "inertia switch" on the passenger side kick panel
5. OPEN gas cap and listen for the fuel pump (had never heard of that one)
6. Hit the gas tank a few times with a rubber mallet to "jar" the fuel pump (again, never heard of that one).
My question to all of you is: Am I missing anything else? Alos, with it running perfect, then running rough and suddenly dying, would is necessarily be the fuel pump? I had read something about a "Fuel Pump Module" located near the spare tire. Is that something I should check into with it running rough (well, not running at all now) like this?
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Owned care for just 1 year. Always seemed to "search" for 2nd gear, now "stammers" and "stutters" into 2nd and starting to do same into 3rd. Dealer says that care "needs to get to know me and how I drive." I say: it must know me by now, so assume it just doesn't like me? Have heard horror stories about being abandoned, etc. My question: do I continue to try to get dealer to fix? or just trade car.
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On my way to pick up my stranded wife and child, don't know all the details yet. Idles fine, no warning lights but front wheels lock up when she tried to drive it. I did the brakes 2 weeks ago, so I hope it's not due to that. She said tge car would drive then lock up the front right wheel. Then go, then skid, etc...
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After driving through high water (only 12"-18" deep), my 2002 Suburban stalled. It restarted but runs rough, doesn't idle well, and still stalls and sputters under acceleration. A week later (it's been dry and I've driven it 70 or so miles since the water), it's still stalling and sputtering. Under braking, I must keep the accelerator down enough to keep the RPMs slightly above 1000 or it will stall. Obviously something got wet that shouldn't have gotten wet.
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I have just swapped a new Vortec V-8 engine into my 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 4*4, now when I start the truck and put it into reverse (foot still on brake pedal), I let off of the brake and the next time I step on the brake pedal the truck stalls. What would be causing this? I have no error codes on the computer, my fuel pressure is good, I just replaced the fuel pump. I think that it might be a sensor somewhere, but I am not sure where to look.
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A week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
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My 2000 Honda CRV starts when cold, however I must continue to give it gas and it will die when I shift into Reverse or Drive. If I rev the engine, I can keep it running and it will run OK once warmed up. When I get it going, the engine will stall if I attempt to let it idle. All problems resolve themselves once the engine is warm. Several mechanics have seen the problem, but cannot determine a solution other than to let the engine warm up. I live in Boston and the combination of having to work my way out of a parking space and the enginge continously stalling when I shift into R or D is making life difficult?
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So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
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My grandson keep his 93 GMC K1500 w/5.7L auto running till he gets out of college. The problem is the engine stalls (sometimes) when put into gear (D or R) and more often when the lights and heater blower are turned on. There were two codes in the pcm (42 & 43) both referring to ignition problems. We did a tune up and erased the codes. After driving the truck for a week the pcm has no codes but the engine still stalls. We cleaned the IAC pintel and seat thinking there might be an air control problem, no luck. The repair manual mentioned ignition advance as a problem particularly the ESC. The manual says this part is on the side of the throttle body but we can not find it.
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I have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
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I have a 94 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera, (3.1L V6 GM3100 engine). When I start the engine it idles very rough and usually stalls if I put it in gear. Eventually once it warms up I can drive it, but when I do drive it's extremely sluggish on accelerations and acts like its about to die. At constant speeds it runs mostly ok. We figured it was a vacuum leak, but we've tried every test we can think of to find it and talked to a couple mechanics and tried their tests and it passed all of them. Supposing it isn't a vacuum leak, then what it might be?
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23,800 miles. Cruising up Hwy. When EPC and Check Engine light both come on for about 1 second, car stutters, then it's back to normal. Never happened before.
Check for codes with VAG-COM and nothing registered. I did notice a strange like-a-clock-ticking sound coming from the center console area as I had the key in the ignition while checking my ECU with VAG-COM. Didn't sound horrible, but it was a sound that I don't recall ever hearing before.
Could this be the start of something that is about to get worse?
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My Passat stutters on start-up and the engine light comes on.... took it to a vw dealer they ran tests and said nothing was wrong with the car, yesterday the engine light was off all day it was fine then some days like today it comes back on.... its a 2001 b5.5 1.8 T with 59,500 miles, manual tranny? I mean i get the oil changed every 3k miles, using synthetic oil, air/fuel/oil filters i always change every 3k miles with the oil change, i also got a tune-up at 45k miles and get the tranny flushed and new tranny oil every 15k miles, I dunno whats up with my passat...
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99, 1.8T, 215K:: Drove 10 minutes fine, turned off, turned back on, stumbling to get an idle...stays steady at 900RPM (normal enough), but engine shutters, hard to accelerate (slow pickup), a bit louder... (limp-home mode)
I am thinking Air mass meter based off of old SAAB Turbo experience, and am going to get it plugged in to check codes.
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I have a 98 Suburban with a 4l60e rebuilt 13 months ago, less than 15000 miles since. I have no second gear at all, but still no apparent slip at all in fourth. R,1,3 are fine. The fluid is a bit dark red, smells normal. There was a bit of the grey paste on the magnet but no obvious trauma. I did find a very small copper wire in there. It's about a 22 gauge, looks like it could have been a 3/8" ring or retainer.
I've replaced the servo, and of course fluid and filter. I pulled off the housing for the 1-2 piston but didn't have the right part to replace. I did not see anything cracked or cocked, it came out and went in fine. The main o ring did look fairly warn, but seemed all-right.
A transmission tester showed second gear being called for on a test drive. I did get a P1870 slippage code a couples weeks ago, I have since cleared it and it has not returned. Could the copper 'ring' be a retainer for something related? I'm guessing the solenoid, but I believe it also applies to 4th gear.
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1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
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I have a 01 Hyundai Accent, 1.5L, stick shift. My CEL came on and I had it read. Mechanic told me it was P1128 (Fuel Lean) or something like that. Looked it up on line and everything said to check for air leaks and then look at the MAF Sensor. I checked and saw no leaks. Took out MAF Sensor and cleaned it with MAF Cleaner. Disco'd battery to reset computer. CEL went out for maybe 30 minutes and then back on. Didn't do anything with it for about 4 months, now car stutters sometimes.
So, I finally broke down and bought MAF Sensor and replaced myself. Disco'd battery to reset computer. Started up and engine was not smooth at first(30 seconds) then smoothed up. But CEL still on. Drove home (25 minutes) and checked again this morning. CEL is off! Only problem is that the car stutters a little at acceleration. Smooth when at cruising RPM and speed. Just stutters a little at start of acceleration and when switching gears until at cruising speed. Is this going to go away? Is the computer just getting set up after changing MAF Sensor?
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