Got a problem with my reverse lights coming on when i hit the brakes. Also, both left and right brake lights come on when i signal to turn rt (along with white reverse lights). Left turn works fine. All bulbs are clear, no discoloration, and both rear light units were completely replace a few years ago.
View 4 RepliesI have a '98 Suburban 4WD, last week I started hearing a clicking noise when I go in reverse. Sounds like it is coming from the rear axle area. I don't hear the sound when going forward.
View 3 RepliesI just had a problem come up a few weeks ago where the check lights indicator comes on. We've narrowed down the problem to the white reverse lights not coming on when the car is in reverse.
I had my Phaeton mechanic look at it and he could not find the problem although apparently there is a resistance difference between the brake lights and reverse lights leading him to believe it may be the bulb holders (they are corroded).
The reverse lights connect to many modules so it could be anything.
When I look back into the rear view the top brake light isn't a solid light, it keeps blinking but sometimes it won't blink and just have a solid light. Also, my friend pointed out to me that both of my reverse lights arenot even coming on. I suspect a loose wire somewhere. Where should I look? Or something else?
View 5 RepliesWe have a 2002 Malibu with 216,000 miles. Car in excellent condition and always garage kept. We have used the same mechanic for many years until this year when he closed his shop. We do plan to replace the car next year, but it's just not necessary to do so just yet.
A couple of month ago someone rear ended me and the body shop replaced the trunk weather stripping, rear bumper, light assemblies, repainted the trunk/bumper/rear side panels.
Several weeks ago, while hubby was pulling the car out of the garage I noticed every time the brake is pressed the backup lights come on too. I then checked turn signals, all other lights, etc. Everything else appears normal except this oddity.
I took it back to the body shop and told them what was happening and said it had to be something done during the repair work. He checked and said everything was hooked up correctly and I needed to take it to a mechanic because it wasn't anything they did.
I have researched and researched and found several other people with this problem. One answer was that the new light assembly was after market and the "pins" were not compatible with the original wiring harness. Another was that the wiring harness coming from the trunk was somehow damaged.
So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
View 16 RepliesI have just swapped a new Vortec V-8 engine into my 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 4*4, now when I start the truck and put it into reverse (foot still on brake pedal), I let off of the brake and the next time I step on the brake pedal the truck stalls. What would be causing this? I have no error codes on the computer, my fuel pressure is good, I just replaced the fuel pump. I think that it might be a sensor somewhere, but I am not sure where to look.
View 2 RepliesSo my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
View 4 RepliesOn my '96 ranger with an automatic the reverse lights only come on between park and reverse, but once put into reverse they go out. The gear selector on the dash reads right, when the needle is on"P"it's in park, "R" drops into reverse and so forth. Do I need to adjust the shifter cable on the side of the transmission? If so how do I do this (I kinda need step by step with removal and adjusting, I've already tried and couldn't get it off the bracket). It's starting to drive me nuts, I've searched on the web for hours with no luck. I've even posted on other sites with zero answers.
View 7 RepliesI have owned this 96 k1500 5.7L Vortex Suburban for 3 years.
Problem: Intermittent stalling upon coming to a stop. When it stalls and I try to restart the engine, the starter can barely spin the motor. The timing is thrown so far advanced that it will literally fire the engine backward and grind the starter gear on the flywheel. I have killed about six starters so far. I took it to the dealership and after two weeks they are clueless.
So far we have replaced: TPS, Ignition Module, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, ECM, and perhaps a few other things I don't recall at this time. If it would stall and simply restart, I could cope with it. The only way I have found to get it to start is when it stalls, pop hood, unplug the power source to the ignition coil, turn key and spin engine over for a few seconds, replug the power source to the ignition coil, and attempt a restart. Usually I don't have to do this more than once or twice.
My '07 Suburban with 55k miles has a "slip and grab" feeling coming from the rear end (when leaving a dead stop, rounding corners at low speed, and coming to a stop). Almost feels like a bad universal joint. The guy at the local axle shop tells me that this is common among GM trucks. He said that he has never seen one fail, but when I get sick of the feeling to have the rear end replaced. He said that it has something to due with the traction control "governors". I will be taking the vehicle to a GM dealership (since this is drivetrain related and under the 100k warranty. As I would like to be as specific as possible when talking to the dealership.
View 14 RepliesAfter putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
View 8 RepliesI've got an '05 burb that for a couple weeks now the interior lights will not come on when you open any doors. Just tonight I went to start it and it took a couple tries and finally did, but I noticed that the clock had been reset almost like the battery had been drained.
I drove it to my destination and just let it run for about 30 min thinking it needed to charge (nothing had drained it that was obvious to me). I had to go back out and it did the same thing, started hesitantly and the clock had been reset.
My '97 Chevy Suburban diesel dies at random times. Nothing seems to trigger it; it usually happens when I'm just driving along, minding my own business; not accelerating or decelerating, turning, stopping, etc. Has happened with the fuel tank at every level: full, half full and quarter tank. When it dies, the dashboard lights do NOT come on. When I turn the key "off" and back "on", the lights come on and the engine will crank fine, but won't start. Ten minutes later, it starts and everything is fine. It may not do it again for weeks, or it may do it again in 10 minutes.
This last time, the fuel tank was fairly low -- below a quarter tank -- and it seems to "buck" or "hesitate a little just before it died the first time. The dealer replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the fuel injector pump. When it started doing it again, they ran every diagnostic test they had and could find nothing wrong. Ran fine for a few weeks, then quit three times in 30 minutes. It's back there now.
I have a noise that has been driving me crazy for a week now. After some investigation I have discounted a few things. To sum up the noise, it seems to be coming from under the vehicle, maybe the passenger rear. It sounds kinda like a jack hammer and it is loud. People on the street can hear it well! There is no consistency in it. I do not here it standing still and it only appears when I am driving. The speed does not matter.
While driving, it will come and go, it will last from 5 seconds to up to 30 seconds. While driving along, it starts, then stops abruptly without dying down. The speed of the "knocking" will follow the speed of the vehicle. If Im going slow (20 mph) it will knock at a slower pace, thus going 65, it is 2 a second. There is nothing loose, I have ruled that out.
Although it does sound like something loose and hitting. I can feel it slightly on the floorboard under the pedals and passenger side. I have to believe it is the rear u-joint? but that was replaced 2 years ago, and I have never heard of a u-joint making this noise.
I have a 2002 Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.7, auto trans. 214,000 miles. Transmission had a complete rebuild in August 2015. Last few days when driving slowly (5 mph) there is a rhythmic clicking or ticking noise coming from the center of the vehicle, best I can tell with my limited hearing. Noise is variable with car speed. With rear axle on jack stands in gear and idling, and my kubota backed up to it for safety ,sound is still there. All U joints appear to be fine, they are tight and there is no sign of fresh rust at the bearing caps. All axle boots are fine, no holes or anything else. I originally thought front hub assembly but the jack stand test rules that out. Not sure what the heck it could be.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 suburban . I have a humming noise coming from the rear . It starts at 45mph and then goes away at 47mph. I hear it again between 60-65 mph then goes away . This is a faint sound . When pulling a trailer the sound is much more noticeable and more constant from 55-64 mph . When I let off the gas the sound is still there and fades as the truck slows. Am I dealing with a bad tire ( I plan to rotate them to see if that is the cause ) or a wheel or axle bearing ? To note I replaced the front wheel hub/bearings just about a year ago .
View 2 RepliesI have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
First bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
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