Suburban :: 99 - Loss Of Power And Oil Pressure
Aug 17, 2012
I bought a 99 Suburban 4x4 with 205,000 miles for hunting, I recently took it to my property in the Texas Hill Country. The road to my property consists of dirt with large rocks, you are required to lock in 4 low and to the climb, on a very steep hill I reached about 3/4 of the way up when the suburban had no power, it idled but my foot was all the way down on the pedal and the tires would not turn or spin out, I backed down and tried going a little faster, same place it stopped moving and this time the oil pressure dropped and the check your gauges light came on, once again I backed it down. On a level surface it drives great but on a steep incline it develops this problem.
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I have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
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Today I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
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Ok well here is the deal, I was on my way to work today and my 2009 F150 lost all power after I got it up to about 55 mph and my oil pressure gauge went down fast. I was on a 3 lane highway with no shoulder so I had to stop it in the far lane and the oil light came on when I took it out of gear and killed it. I got out and there was no oil anywhere so it did not leak out.
I started it again and the oil pressure gauge went up and then right back down. I had to have it towed to the dealership but I was just wondering what was the problem??? I believe it is either a sensor or the oil pump but leaning more towards a sensor.
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My wife was driving our 08 B6 yesterday and suddenly had a loss of power. Check engine light was on. Took it to the dealer and we heard back today that the high pressure fuel pump had gone out. I had heard of the TDI's having this problem and I know BMW had to do a recall on the same issue. I didn't know that the 2.0 TSI had this problem.
I'm a little bit concerned 'cause we leased the car for 3 years and didn't have a single problem. I thought it was very solid so we decided to buy the car last month Now my confidence in the car is a little bit rattled.
The car is under warranty. I just hope that this is not the kind of thing that's going to go out every 20K miles! Out of warranty, this repair would have been costly.
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I recently had an upper radiator hose bust and ever since I have been having a slight water leak. It appeared to be coming from between the layers of rubber on the new hose which I replaced twice since the incident. Both hoses had water seeping from the same location. This afternoon I plan on doing a pressure test on the cooling system to diagnose where the water may be coming from.
My question is could a loss of pressure cause larger than normal Oil and Water deltas? If I have to replace the radiator is there a particular manufacturer or type I should avoid? Should I try to get a factory replacement from Ford or would an Autoparts unit be sufficient? The original is still in the truck now with 286,000 miles on it.
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Getting po171 and 174 codes. Also losing coolant, but unable to locate source of coolant loss. Had a 2000 Tahoe that had the same problem and had to replace the upper/lower intake manifold gaskets. I'm guessing I'm having the exact same problem with the suburban. Is this a common thing with the tahoes/suburbans? Anyway just want to see if everyone else thinks and if this is most likey my problem. Still getting good gas mileage and power....nothing is off...just getting those codes from time to time and losing coolant, but unable to find the leak.
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I've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
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We have a 99 Suburban LT 5.7 V8 4x4 with 210K miles. My wife was driving the vehicle the other day and while at a stop light the oil pressure got very low approximately 20psi according to the gauge. I need to find the oil pressure sensor location to check the true pressure using a pressure gauge but I can't seem to find it. From what I've read it should be by the oil filter or by the distributor cap or on the underside of the engine. It's neither around the oil filter or the distributor (using a mirror looking everywhere) nor on the underside of the engine.
What I have found is two sensors. A sensor I believe by #1 and #3 spark plug (driver's side) screwed into the block and a sensor on the passenger side of the engine (screwed into the block) accessed from underneath the vehicle. The sensor on the driver's side of the vehicle appears to be the best candidate however neither of the sensors looks like the replacement part when I view the picture of the sensor online.
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99 Suburban LS 4x4 with the 5.7 with 109k miles. My Suburban broke down on my wife a few weeks ago, figured out that one of the catalytic converters had a catastrophic failure and came apart internally. I cut the cat off so that I could drive it the 60 miles home to save on the tow charge.
Had the cat replaced today and now I'm blowing white smoke out the tailpipe like I'm 007 throwing a smoke screen. The smoke alternates from smelling really rich to smelling like oil (pre-burn).
The oil pressure gauge is reading at or below 20 PSI and randomly (usually while breaking or stopped) completely bottoms out. I know cluster gauges aren't known for their accuracy but I also know this isn't 'normal' behavior. I also hear noise from the engine (possibly valves sticking but could also be more of a knocking sound than a clicking one). The oil is full (actually a little too full) and it went from looking like brand new oil to jet black in less than 30 days. I talked with the rep at one of the 'big name' auto parts stores and they recommended trying a 20W50 weight oil for a couple of months. Stated they have a similar vehicle with the same motor and made the switch a few years ago and hasn't had a problem since. I plan to do an oil change this weekend, I also bought an oil pressure sending unit that I'll change out at the same time. Am I on the right track?
Also, and most likely unrelated, my coolant temp gauge is totally inoperative and is just bottomed out no matter how warm the engine is. The coolant hoses (supply and return) are warm/hot to the touch at running temp so I'm sure coolant is circulating. What's the easiest way to check whether that issue is the gauge itself, the thermostat, or the sending unit?
There are no codes that come up on my OBD II reader at the moment.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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I have a problem with my jeep grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2v8 losing oil pressure when the engine reaches normal operating temperature. the jeep sat for 2 years but we got it to run. when normal engine temperature occurs, the engine drops oil pressure and stalls. I have changed fuel pump,oil pump and oil pan gasket. also ran a cleaner through the engine. it doesn't matter if its winter or summer. the only way I can keep it running is to keep my foot on the gas pedal. if I don't do this the jeep stalls. a mechanic said it was the bearings. I don't believe this because there is no knocking noise when the engine is running. it has 103663 miles on it. it has just city and highway miles on it. never has been off road.
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I purchased my 2014 Prius v 11/29/2014. Drove it home, all good. About 2 weeks later, while driving down 231 in Alabama, tire pressure light goes off. 3 tires needed air. No dealer and no nitrogen available. So in goes air. One of the tires was at about 20psi. Only tire holding pressure was left front. (Less than 500 miles on car)
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Okay, 2000 Tundra (185,000 miles) starts out with usual pressure. After driving a ways pressure drops down to dangerously low and stays there (not detectable when driving, other than gauge). Mechanics measure same pressure drop using alternate pressure gauge at engine. They assumed oil pump, which would mean pulling engine, but were advised bad oil pump is very unlikely on that Tundra (and I don't think the symptoms quite suggest that), and also advised that oil suction tube could be clogged, also necessitating pulling engine, but oil has been kept fairly clean. Car also sits for long periods.
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I have read many of the comments re tire pressure loss but don't know if I have a unique problem or not. I own a 2011 GMC Terrain and my tire pressure is monitored through On Star. Every report I receive tells me my pressure is low in all tires - about the same amount, with little variance. Fortunately I own a air compressor and add air - virtually every 10 days or so.The dealer tells me all tires have small pores which cause leaks and I should go to a tire firm to have nitrogen put in the tires. (He didn't say it would seal the tires but indicated it would solve my problem?) Almost all of the comments on your site do not speak favorably of this. Any thoughts?
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My 07 with 178K miles is getting about 35MPG and the only thing noticeably different in the constant lighting of the low pressure indicator, even tho the tires are fine.
Stopping by Costco Tire, the mgr. said there is a battery in the indicator that does wear out, knowing how linked the electronics are in these cars, could this be the cause of the poor mileage?
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a buddy of mine suggested I get a res delete recently but i inquired earlier about this to a sears auto mechanic and he said i'd have problems because of the loss of down pressure, is that a big deal? i have a 2.8 30 valve v6.
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I have a 2003 Honda Civic and the engine temperature will sporadically raise above normal. Using the heat (even a slight mixture, anything but full cold) seems to worsen the problem.
I've discovered that the coolant is almost always low in these situations, and so I've just been filling the coolant up in the morning before I start the car, but it usually takes about half a liter. There are no puddles or wet spots in the garage or inside the cabin, and I've had the radiator put under pressure for a weekend and it maintained operating pressure, so it seems that there is no leak.
I've had the water pump, timing belt, spark plugs, and O2 sensors replaced. It's been like this for about a year, but it's more frequent in the winter when I use the heat more. Where is my coolant going?
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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I have a 97 Pontiac Transport and I was traveling down the road and suddenly i lost oil pressure the light came on and it started clattering so I checked the oil level and it was fine so i had it towed home. I changed the oil using a higher grade oil and lucas oil treatment and started it ...I still have the problem what do i do...
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I have a 2010 LS460L AWD with the OEM wheels. Periodically, one or two of my tires experience slow PSI drops. The Firestone Auto Center attributes the tire pressure loss to wheel corrosion where the tire bead meets the wheel. After the Auto Center cleans the wheel, the tire pressure holds. However, the problem recurs periodically. It is not isolated to one wheel...
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