Suburban :: 99 - Excessive Dust On Rear Brakes?
Feb 10, 2012
So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
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So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
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I am going to have to replace the rear dust shields and emergency brakes soon. I was wondering if we have this documented somewhere. The main question is do we need to remove the axle to replace the shield.
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Here's what I am running into. I have factory setup and it doesn't feel adequate. I get vibrations, lots of brake dust on front wheels, and just don't feel I have the stopping power if needed in emergency or towing. Especially with how heavy my 6.0 is already.
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Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
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Own a 2007 Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix). Anyway, do a lot of driving on gravel roads, and the rear window is always covered in mud or dust. Any type of deflector available to alleviate this ?
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I really enjoy my 2009 Smart car, excellent gas mileage, fun to drive too. The only drawback is all the dust coming off the front disc brakes that makes my front wheels look filthy even when the rest of the car is clean. Are there other brake pads that work as good as the factory originals yet don't give off so much dust?
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I have a 06' Ranger 2WD with General Grabber tires that have about 30,000 miles on them and still show significant tread remaining.
Within the last 2 months, I have experienced excessive tire noise - like I am driving a Humvee or something. Also, when I turned right or left the tires would make even MORE noise - it seemed to be coming from the right front tire mostly. 2 weeks ago I had the tires rotated and the sound seems to have reduced while turning but I still have the howling Humvee noise while driving down the road. There is no vibration coming from the wheel, so I don't think it's a balancing issue. Could it be the bearings?
I also checked the PSI all around and one tire does have a slow leak but I try to keep to topped off.
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Got a problem with my reverse lights coming on when i hit the brakes. Also, both left and right brake lights come on when i signal to turn rt (along with white reverse lights). Left turn works fine. All bulbs are clear, no discoloration, and both rear light units were completely replace a few years ago.
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I have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
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My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
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I have just swapped a new Vortec V-8 engine into my 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 4*4, now when I start the truck and put it into reverse (foot still on brake pedal), I let off of the brake and the next time I step on the brake pedal the truck stalls. What would be causing this? I have no error codes on the computer, my fuel pressure is good, I just replaced the fuel pump. I think that it might be a sensor somewhere, but I am not sure where to look.
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My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
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My GF recently purchased a used 2009 Corolla LE when a yuppie type with a bad texting habit, rear ended and totaled her last ride.
It is a great little car with excellent handling and performance. We also enjoy the 30mpg's and sub $40 fill ups.
I drove it recently and noticed a knobby tire sound coming from the rear of the car. I rotated the tires to see if the noise moved with the tires and it did not (this was to rule out a cupping tire). I suspected a wheel bearing / hub failing and took it to my mechanic buddy to confirm. He agreed with me as there are really no other moving parts back there other than the brake shoes. I had already taken it down the highway and gently applied the parking brake to rule that out. No change when the parking brake was applied at highway speeds.
Found the hub assy at Rock Auto and it took about 30 minutes to replace. It comes complete with an abs sensor. The hub housing was blue from excessive heat so it was about to seize or fail completely which would have been ugly.
the bearing rides is actually blue from excessive heat.....
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When I purchased my suburban the a/c and heat would sometimes work in the front and rear. They "fixed" the problem and now a year later the entire rear component works sometimes and not others.
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Have a '99 K1500 Suburban. My passenger rear door lock will not move. It is very difficult to pull up the lock in order to open the door. The keyless entry and master door lock does not work on this door. None of the other locks seem to have trouble. Does this sound like something is bent or need cleaning?? Or could it be the actuator?? Doesn't seem to be electrical because the lock will not move??
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I have a 2002 Suburban 1500LT with rear wiper, and it has intermittent capabilities. Recently the rear wiper arm appears to be trying to park over and over when the switch is turned to off. Once in awhile it will make a full pass but then it goes back to the endless park syndrome.
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My vehicle does not lock the rear window glass on the left gate. All other locks work fine. The rear lift gate glass just slams and nothing.
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My '07 Suburban with 55k miles has a "slip and grab" feeling coming from the rear end (when leaving a dead stop, rounding corners at low speed, and coming to a stop). Almost feels like a bad universal joint. The guy at the local axle shop tells me that this is common among GM trucks. He said that he has never seen one fail, but when I get sick of the feeling to have the rear end replaced. He said that it has something to due with the traction control "governors". I will be taking the vehicle to a GM dealership (since this is drivetrain related and under the 100k warranty. As I would like to be as specific as possible when talking to the dealership.
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Noticed this during a recent trip halfway cross country. It did POUR for part of the trip, but I didn't notice the wetness until a few days after we were at our destination. Further, none of our luggage etc was wet, so I don't suspect a leak in the rubber gaskets along the window. We did have the A/C running constantly while in 90° heat. I checked underneath the car; saw no obvious signs of rust on the underside. I did see a hose and some type of contraption on the passenger side rear, above the muffler - it was dripping water. Is this part of the A/C system, and could it be the cause of dampness in the carpet?
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I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
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