Suburban :: 99 - Engine Turns Over But Doesn't Start After Fuel Pump Replacement
Apr 22, 2012
Just replaced the fuel pump in my 99 Suburban. Replacement is an AC Delco unit. When I tried to start it, nothing. Engine turns over but doesn't start. Checked all connections and getting voltage down to new harness. replaced relay from GM dealership and also fuel filter. I used to hear the old pump prime when turning on the ignition but don't hear anything with the new pump. Could it be a bad pump out of the box?
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My 2003 Passat 1.8t starts up but turns off 1-2 secs later. And if it is the fuel pump, where is it on my car?
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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I can drive below 40 mph and nothing, once I hit the freeway engine light turns on and gears start slipping. I erase the code and it runs fine at first this would happen once in a while but lately its every time I get on the freeway. I cant keep driving and erasing the code, Every shop says I need to replace the transmission?
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I have a 120k miles manual 2000 jetta vr6 12v. I was having check engine issues so i put in a reader and showed me problems at catalytic converter. I don't remember the code, and no longer have a reader...
I was told to replace the oxygen sensors in both banks as well which i did.
I opened up catalytic converter to inspect and now the car will get no spark, the engine turns, and the display shows engine stop.
I was also told to put the oxygen sensor further away with an extension cord but not sure if that plays a part.
Does the catalytic converter is causing it to not spark?
Could there be an issue with maybe a sensor at the crankshaft that checks for motion?
What the starting sequence and dependencies are or what failures I could have that prevent the spark?
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I know I need to remove the reservoir to replace the pump but I can't get it out. I removed the storage compartment, then the bolt connecting the translucent top portion of the reservoir that connects to the front and the side bolt that connects the reservoir to the side of the truck. It is loose but I still cannot get the reservoir out.
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I have a 1988 Ranger 2.9 V6 that sits most of the time. The fuel pump quit working so I removed the bed and replaced the pump in the tank and the inline filter near the engine. I did not replace the inline high pressure pump because it still made a humming sound so I assumed it is working. Now when I turn the switch on I hear both pumps working but the truck will not start. It seems like it wants to fire or fires for just a second but just wont completely start. Is the system supposed to be primed and if so how?. I suspect a fuel problem but I dont know how to check pressure or check to see if fuel is getting to the engine. What to do next?
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The Phaeton is a 2003 6.0 W12 model. The car used to be a demo car and has currently around 80.000 km. It is not equipped with a keyless entry system. I recently put an Xcarlink device to connect my iPod. All the rest is a standard equipment (basically all available at that moment).
The problem with the car started when I could not open from the remote key. I tried to open the driver door, but the never used lock jammed. The only option was opening the trunk using the key. I had to lift the lid using some force against the dumpers, but it worked.
As the both batteries on the car were original 2003 (so went through the showroom period as well) I new that they cause the problem.
I bought two new batteries and replaced them. I proceeded according to the service manual so disconnected the right battery -, right +, left -, left +. I am pretty convinced that I did not blow the battery isolator. The left battery applied is 95Ah in place of 92 before. It has the max current of 800 A in place of 850 A. The right battery is exactly the same specification as before. After testing the old batteries the left one showed current of 2.8V so it was definitely broken. The right one seemed to be OK (12.58V)
After replacing the batteries I could open the car and all the entertainment systems and electronics inside would work except for:
1) The suspension lifting and tire pressure warning lights are on.
2) I cannot start the engine - it does not crank at all even using the emergency mode - two times start and back to accessories mode
3) The trunk lid does not close automatically.
I am getting the car towed to the local VW dealer tomorrow, but I am afraid they will see the Phaeton for the first time in their lives (small Dutch dealer nearby Utrecht), so I am a bit afraid of the car.
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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My R is garage kept, and every morning when I open the door, I can hear the fuel pump make a quick priming run. Well, not "every morning"; sometimes it doesn't do it's two second prime, and when that happens the car usually takes two cranks to start.
(I know that there is a timer. If you have been driving the car, shut the car off, close the door, and then open it, it is not going to prime, but I'm talking about after the car has been sitting all night.) This issue could be related to my door-lock-craziness issue.
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02 Santa Fe was recently in a minor accident that popped the airbags. Engine won't start now. Where do i find the reset for the fuel pump?
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When I changed the alternator on my 2000 plymouth neon, I crossed the wires for the plug. Now the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, when it turns over, which isn't often. I turn the key and nothing happens.
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My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
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My '07 H3 will turn over, but not start, but it only happens about once a week (4 times total as of now). When this happens, if I let it sit and try again in about 15 minutes it will start. I've spoken to 2 mechanics who state that they need to experience it happening to diagnose it. This means I would have to leave my H3 with them for potentially a full week which I can't do. How to handle this? I'd hate to be stranded somewhere in 115 degree heat with my 6-year old.
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I have a celica 1.8 st202 that doesn't start. The efi relay and fuse are ok. I tested these and even replaced the relay with another one.
-When I jumper the pins in the diagnose box B+ and FP the engine starts.
-When I remove it the engine won't start.
-When I remove the jumper the fuel pump doesn't get any power.
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Sometimes my Bravada won't start. It cranks good (new battery) and I can hear the fuel pump , but it doesn't fire up. I just got it back from the repair shop.?
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Just replaced fuel pump and now it turns over but won't crank. I have checked the fuel rail. Pressure is fine. Checked coil pack I'm getting spark. Still won't crank. Checked inertia switch it wasn't tripped. What next? 2003 Ranger edge...
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So, the fuel pump was replaced in june after the tank was run dry and it wouldnt turn over. Everything went fine with the pump replacement, except for the lights were dim and there was a short in the taillights after the battery was put back in. I found a severed wire to the taillights, which seemed to fix some of the problem and was going to replace the bulbs for the dimness that night. Drove to work then was going to drive to the grocery store with the girlfriend and when we pulled out of the driveway the truck stalled. We restarted it and it stalled and turn on 2-3 back to back before losing all power. Took the bed off to see if i missed anymore wires but everything looked fine. We pushed it into the garage and when i went to put it into park, the lights flashed and went off. What could be causing this?
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After my 95 GCL wouldn't start and was towed to Jeep dealership, the problem was diagnosed has the fuel pump. I went to pick up my Jeep. Started and ran beautifully..but I noticed the air bag light was on, and wasn't that way before it wouldn't start. Went back into dealership and told'em..they told me nothing they did would have any bearing on the air bag or the dash warning light. What could have happened to cause this problem? I have re-booted the electrical system (more than once) by disconnecting the battery.
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I changed my fuel pump cause it died and now my mileage is about 100 less per tank? What could it be.
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I seem to remember a old post but I can't find it! Someone replaced the fuel pump by cutting a hole through the floor.
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