Suburban :: 99 - Driver Door Lock Switch Does Not Work
May 25, 2012
Simultaneously driver door lock switch does not work but door lock when shifting into drive and when shifting into park. RR passenger door lock is jammed, cannot move electrically or manually. All this at the same time!
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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Repaired my locks on my F350. Had the motor reversed. Before I figured that out I thought I needed to change the wires in the plug. Changed them and it didn't work, put them back and now the switch on that door does not work for the lock; however, all other switches work. What do I need to fix?
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I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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my moms 2004 touareg's switch to lock/unlock got pushed through and is in the door now i'm wondering what you have to remove to get where it would've fallen and how to get it off i've tried to snap it out but i don't want to pull it too hard and break anything else. also how do i get it back in position once i get to it
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On my 97, I cannot power LOCK the doors from the driver's door switch. All other functions work okay. Jumping the switch has no effect.
On the wiring diagram the wires from right and left door switches come together at the relay (seems logical). Where the relay is located?
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I have a 20th anniversary gti and the driver side door wont lock and the gas door wont unlock. The passenger door is fine. The drivers side door will not lock from the switch inside the car or the remote. I already replaced the locking module and nothing changed. I also unplugged and cleaned the 3 plugs for the drivers side wiring harness.
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My driver door lock will not work with either of my key fobs. or with the switch on the inside. it has to be manually locked/unlocked or the key used in the door..
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Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
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The driver side door lock doesn't work electronically. It locks and unlocks with the key and the knob on the inside but not with the remote and central locking. Though when I lock it, it does make a sound and the knob moves a little. Need to confirm that it is in fact the actuator ...
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I am now having my first issue with my car in that the rear drivers side door lock won't always work.
After using the search function, it seems replacing the door lock actuator/solenoid solves this problem, but I could only find a diagram showing how to get at it on the drivers front door, not a rear door.
Looking for a diagram on how to do this, or info on it?
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Like the title says, the door lock cylinder does not work on my driver's side door. I removed it and the doors lock unlock with a screw driver so it's only the lock cylinder that is bad. Is there a way to "rebuild" it or fix it without having to get a new one? All 3 of my keys don't work for the trunk or drivers door.
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I have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
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My GS350 came back from the body shop yesterday. Driver side rear door touch lock does not work. I'll take my car to the body shop next week, but I'm wondering what is causing this problem. Basically, I want to know how the door touch lock operates. Does it have any sensors attached to the door handle?
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Replaced the door lock switch and all the other door lock switches in the car work, as does the one on the keyfob. How to figure out what's going on?
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So all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
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Have a '99 K1500 Suburban. My passenger rear door lock will not move. It is very difficult to pull up the lock in order to open the door. The keyless entry and master door lock does not work on this door. None of the other locks seem to have trouble. Does this sound like something is bent or need cleaning?? Or could it be the actuator?? Doesn't seem to be electrical because the lock will not move??
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1999 Suburban
Although the key slides into the lock easily, it's a bear to turn the key left and right. I tried squirting some graphite into the key hole and working it with the key but that didn't do much if anything.
Is there a way to lube the internals that a homeowner--not mechanic--can do?
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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1996 K2500 Sub. My driver's door inside handle broke. I can get just the handle, or the whole inside unit w/handle for about the same price. Any difference in installation? One easier than the other?
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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