Suburban :: 98 - AC Pressure 30 To 155 At 1800 RPM
Apr 30, 2011
I've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
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Today I started my 2000 Suburban on the coldest morning ever, -14 degrees actual temp. I went inside to let it warm up and about 15 min later I went out to go to work and the check oil pressure light was on and oil pressure read 0. Is this due to extreme cold and thick oil ? Or did something break on start up. I am going to wait until temps are up before I try it again as it was running awful. I am fearing that 15 min warm up may have hurt her.
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I bought a 99 Suburban 4x4 with 205,000 miles for hunting, I recently took it to my property in the Texas Hill Country. The road to my property consists of dirt with large rocks, you are required to lock in 4 low and to the climb, on a very steep hill I reached about 3/4 of the way up when the suburban had no power, it idled but my foot was all the way down on the pedal and the tires would not turn or spin out, I backed down and tried going a little faster, same place it stopped moving and this time the oil pressure dropped and the check your gauges light came on, once again I backed it down. On a level surface it drives great but on a steep incline it develops this problem.
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We have a 99 Suburban LT 5.7 V8 4x4 with 210K miles. My wife was driving the vehicle the other day and while at a stop light the oil pressure got very low approximately 20psi according to the gauge. I need to find the oil pressure sensor location to check the true pressure using a pressure gauge but I can't seem to find it. From what I've read it should be by the oil filter or by the distributor cap or on the underside of the engine. It's neither around the oil filter or the distributor (using a mirror looking everywhere) nor on the underside of the engine.
What I have found is two sensors. A sensor I believe by #1 and #3 spark plug (driver's side) screwed into the block and a sensor on the passenger side of the engine (screwed into the block) accessed from underneath the vehicle. The sensor on the driver's side of the vehicle appears to be the best candidate however neither of the sensors looks like the replacement part when I view the picture of the sensor online.
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99 Suburban LS 4x4 with the 5.7 with 109k miles. My Suburban broke down on my wife a few weeks ago, figured out that one of the catalytic converters had a catastrophic failure and came apart internally. I cut the cat off so that I could drive it the 60 miles home to save on the tow charge.
Had the cat replaced today and now I'm blowing white smoke out the tailpipe like I'm 007 throwing a smoke screen. The smoke alternates from smelling really rich to smelling like oil (pre-burn).
The oil pressure gauge is reading at or below 20 PSI and randomly (usually while breaking or stopped) completely bottoms out. I know cluster gauges aren't known for their accuracy but I also know this isn't 'normal' behavior. I also hear noise from the engine (possibly valves sticking but could also be more of a knocking sound than a clicking one). The oil is full (actually a little too full) and it went from looking like brand new oil to jet black in less than 30 days. I talked with the rep at one of the 'big name' auto parts stores and they recommended trying a 20W50 weight oil for a couple of months. Stated they have a similar vehicle with the same motor and made the switch a few years ago and hasn't had a problem since. I plan to do an oil change this weekend, I also bought an oil pressure sending unit that I'll change out at the same time. Am I on the right track?
Also, and most likely unrelated, my coolant temp gauge is totally inoperative and is just bottomed out no matter how warm the engine is. The coolant hoses (supply and return) are warm/hot to the touch at running temp so I'm sure coolant is circulating. What's the easiest way to check whether that issue is the gauge itself, the thermostat, or the sending unit?
There are no codes that come up on my OBD II reader at the moment.
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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I've tried to do some internet search on my dad camry that is stuttering at 1800 - 2000 rpm. the car drives fine & all but every time, the rpm is at 1800 - 2000, the car would stutter or it is not smooth and/or normal.
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2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
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As the title says, I have a 2013 accent with an automatic transmission and 63k miles. Just bought it, used. The car seems to be fine, except I've noticed that when I am giving the engine some gas and it has work to do, i.e. accelerating or going up a hill, it will squeek / chirp a bit, but only between 1800 and 2000 rpm. Its not very loud, and goes away when it's outside of that rpm range. It seems to happen more often once the engine is warm and when the car is already at speed, rather than when it's revving in park or accelerating from a standstill.
Here's a 47 second video I took inside the car while driving. [URL] .....
It's a bit quiet, sry about that, all I have is windows movie maker. The sound is present at 0:08, 0:16, 0:36, and 0:45.
Is this something I should worry about? I saw another thread which mentioned "dieseling", a sound like a diesel engine caused by a bad knock sensor, leading to incorrect ignition/valve timing. It sounds a little bit like a diesel engine to me, is this the same thing?
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 pickup that is running terrible at any RPM under 1800. It is also bad under acceleration at any RPM, or when the a/c is on. The truck is showing no problem codes at all. I have been throwing parts at it with no success. I have replaced in order - the air cleaner, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and even the timing belt.
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Vehicle: 2006 Mk IV Golf 2.0 GLS With 82766 mi
Back story: I purchased the vehicle from my dad who did regular maintenance except that somehow spark plugs and wires slipped through the cracks until now. A few months ago (while I was in training) it apparently started showing CEL but the few times it came on, my wife said it just disappeared. Two weeks ago, it came on again and I had the code read which came back as P0420. I took it in and they replaced the rear cat after which it ran well for a few days. Then the CEL came on again but went off before I could get out in the shop. This weekend I went ahead and changed the oil and may have over filled it slightly. The next day I went to change the spark plugs and after changing 4, 1, 3 it started to miss fire in 4 and 1. I reset both spark plugs and got 4 firing again, but 1 remained bad. With a friend I determined there was a weak spark in 1 and changed the wire but no change.
Current situation: As it stands now, it's still miss firing. The worst seems to be between 1200- 1800 rpm and if I keep it above there the light will stop flashing and even turn off on some cases. I've read that heart mixed with moisture(I just moved from AZ to WA) can lead to a cracked coil pack or that the injectors can go bad. Should I just take it to vw specialist?
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When my Tig is cold, it seems to be very jerky or sluggish at 1500-1800rpm. There is definitely something happening at that range of RPM , almost seems like it's slipping and is jerky.
I know these 2.0's are notorious for the timing tensioner going (I have an 09) - could this be somehow related? I know that at a start I always get the famous rattle for a few seconds until oil pressure builds.
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I have an 09 Xterra with a 6 cylinder engine. It's been running fine, except for a noise that only occurs exactly at 1800 rpm. It's not too loud, almost like a rubbing/grinding from the engine compartment. Does not perfect performance at all, and barely noticeable with the radio playing. Noise does not occur in neutral, but does occur in any gear. I've been using a synthetic blend oil, and switching from conventional did not make a difference.
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Just purchased a beautiful 2007 ES 350. Love it but when I start it first thing in the morning, the idles shoots to 1800 for a second then up to 2000 for about 10 seconds then slowly comes down to 600ish. Also, during this "1800 and 2000" time, the oil maintenance light comes for a few seconds. Oil was changed just prior to purchase. Car has 100k and rides immaculate- 25.5 mpg mixed.
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Noticed yesterday a slight whistle from turbo in my 108,000 mile MY2008 3.0tdi ( the engine is new at 90k miles, but the turbo was transferred over).
Its barely audible, a gentle whistle from about 1500 to 1800 rpm on moderate acceleration. It's then lost in general engine/ road noise. Car drives smoothly and pulls as normal.
Only noticeable on quite road surfaces, radio off, etc, and no more than I recall as standard from earlier turbo diesel Audi & BMW cars from the 1990's.
A quick on-line search indicates carbon build-up can be an issue? In the past few years my mileage has dropped way down to maybe 9k miles per year, mostly shorter trips & not as much higher speed motorway as previously.
If this is the potential end in sight for the turbo, can the unit be refurbished.
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It's a 2004 4wd 4.6 v8 with 140,000 miles. My wife was driving around town today and had to park it at her daughter's house because even if you floor it,the engine will only rev to about 1500-1800 rpm's and idles really low,maybe 600 rpm. she said right before it started running bad,there was a bad smell. Also there is a humming/rattling noise that sounds like it's coming from the upper intake/throttle body area. I went and looked at it,tried to pull codes.
The check engine light isn't on and there are no codes stored in the computer. A couple of days ago,there was code po420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)and the check engine light was on. Engine was running fine. I cleared the code,and it never came back. I am not sure this is related,just trying to give all info possible.
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Experience a grinding noise at around 1500-1800 rpm when driving?
The noise sounds like the 2nd gen valve spring start up but not as loud.
The dealer was able to replicate the noise on my car but they don't know what is causing it.
They called the regional guy to come look at it but he doesn't have a clue where or what is causing the noise.
2015 350fpsort
30k miles
Noise starts at around 10K-15k miles and dealer couldn't replicate it then but I hear it everyday.
Update with video : [URL] ....
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Not sure who wants to ruin my night, but here's what popped up for codes:
Also, the engine sounds like a sewing machine when revving up to about 1,800 RPMs, then the engine sounds fine. Lastly, the far camshaft makes a knocking at idle after engine warms up.
If this indeed needs a timing replacement, I've done everything on the car myself, but this would be a stretch.
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At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
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This was a problem with the first generation GX470. It was finally resolved.
I am experiencing this in my 2011 GX460. I would have thought this was engineered out of this vehicle by now.
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My truck has 57k miles on it. At 1800-2100 RPM it whines under or over it is just fine. it has a new air filter in it as well, still makes the noise, it doesn't matter what gear i am in, it only does this under load. if i free rev it , it will not do it.
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