Suburban :: 97 K2500 Suburban Shaking When Braking Above 30mph
Sep 27, 2014
I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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My '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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My 1999 suburban has some braking issues. When braking the abs often activates when I am nearly stopped. It is like it is not seeing a sensor or something. It only does it at slow speed.
How does the abs work? What conditions have to exist to activate the abs motor? Brake pedal actuated and missed sensor signal (locked wheel)? What does the sensor pick up on the front wheels? rear wheels?
I intent on replacing pads and shoes (rotors and drums if nec) but I am afraid that this may not even be part of the problem.
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When turning right, it seems as if my brakes don't want to work. There is somewhat of a grinding sound and what I can only describe as a "shutter" from the pedal. They work great going straight or turning left. I should also mention that the steering locks up when turning sharply, haven't noticed if it's only when turning a certain way. This happens mostly when backing up. Also, the ABS light is on occasionally. I drive a '96 GMC Suburban.
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I've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
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I need figuring out the speed sensor on my 96 ,k1500 series,5.7,4*4,automatic.. Where is it located...
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I bought a 99 Suburban 4x4 with 205,000 miles for hunting, I recently took it to my property in the Texas Hill Country. The road to my property consists of dirt with large rocks, you are required to lock in 4 low and to the climb, on a very steep hill I reached about 3/4 of the way up when the suburban had no power, it idled but my foot was all the way down on the pedal and the tires would not turn or spin out, I backed down and tried going a little faster, same place it stopped moving and this time the oil pressure dropped and the check your gauges light came on, once again I backed it down. On a level surface it drives great but on a steep incline it develops this problem.
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When I purchased my suburban the a/c and heat would sometimes work in the front and rear. They "fixed" the problem and now a year later the entire rear component works sometimes and not others.
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I have a 2000 suburban and it's leaking anti freeze but not going on the ground not sure where the leaking anti freeze is going to. it started out with no heat I, with my dad replace the cabin filters and got front heat back but after awhile I lost heat only in the front I have rear heat. not sure what the problem is? I am afraid to take it to a dealer and get scammed. it's not over heating or getting hot, but in the winter when it first started it i doled hard and it sounded like something was wrong with the lifter?
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I need to add a 2nd battery to my 2003 1500 suburban. How to do it? Or is there a Kit I can buy for it? Also would I need to change the alternator?
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What size is the pitman arm nut to steering box in a 1998 suburban? Some one said 34 MM. Don't want to buy the wrong size of socket.
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders.
I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
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At idle my heater kinda blows hot, at highway speeds i'M a human pop sicle.
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If sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
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My fuse keeps getting blown, mechanically and emotionally. My 91 gmc suburban blows the a/c fuse every time i slide the a/c switch to any position. when the fuse goes my emergency brake light turns on and my speedometer stops working. one weird note, my engine seems to run very smooth after the fuse goes, to the point that im not even sure its running but it is. So my question is, where should i start looking to fix the problem? It's too hot/cold in here!"
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I have a 1997 suburban vortek 5.7 with 200k miles. Went on vacation for a week and when I got back it wouldn't start. Cranks strong, good spark at spark plug and coil wire. I can hear fuel pump humming when key is turned on. Fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago (4th time in 6 years) with GM OEM pump. New plug wires. Engine will almost start and then goes back to just spinning. I sprayed starter fluid (generously) in the air intake while cranking it and it didn't fire at all (despite good spark). I thought that would be a good test to see if it was getting fuel. Strong smell of raw gas after attempting to start it. I'm going to download trouble codes this weekend....
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I have a 2000 Suburban which is only blowing hot air from the vents. If I turn the temp selector to cold it still blows hot air. Even when I press the button for AC it still only produces hot air.
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First i know this subject has been covered, but i am at a loss. I have a 1997 burb 2wd that started the shake right after i bought it. it shake from around 65 to just under 75. Here is the list of items I have done by reading the forums. I am on 2nd set of tires both different brands. Last set has been road force balanced new inner and outer tie rods new shocks new rear trans mount new front and rear u joints had drive shaft rebalanced new front wheel bearings this is also the other stuff that has been done in last 6 months new a/c compressor and lines new alternator new radiator new plugs , cap, rotor, wires. It is hard for me to tell where the shake is coming from as sometimes it fells like the whole truck and other times just the front end. at this speed i also have put the truck in neutral and let it idle down and still nothing.
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Just new today a low grumble when in motion. Not the engine, all gauges check. This sound, it's constant unless I am at a complete stop, a lower sound than the engine running. There has been a putter sound for a while now, was told that was an exhaust leak. That sound I thought sounded like the bolts on the front fan hitting something, cuz that happened before, but so mechanic said it was an exhaust leak. That a very faint putter sound. So what have I got left? Something front end, I have a tiny clunk when breaking and taking off. It doesn't seem to be related to the usual stuff I've already had happen. Breaks are fine, tires wearing evenly, engine doesn't skip a beat, temp good, isn't the sound of low steering fluid cuz I know that one.
Could where ever an exhaust leak be finally break loose? I know diesel mechanics but who looks at the wheels and shocks and stuff? Just sounds like something in addition to the engine, not tire on pavement hum but something lower. Sort of surrounds you, windows up it is very faint. Doesn't affect anything either, that I can tell. Muffler? I do have a vibration noise on and off with the muffler. The best I can describe it is a low constant noise while I'm driving and it's there going slow and fast. More audible with the windows open. All I know is I don't wanna die in that truck. Been under it before and other than old leak stains, all I've ever seen is dirt in my eye. What kinda shop does shocks and wheel stuff? What can an exhaust leak do to me? Not even a vibration to go with this noise. I just don't know, this is new.
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I have a 1999 GMC with 280,000 miles. No engine light on. I was going down the freeway and the engine light flashed 5 times and the engine quit. Left 4 ways on and the battery went dead. Towed home. Checked code and it was p0304. Because the battery was dead for a few days I don't know if it's from back then or just now with me trying to start it. The fuel presser is good and it holds presser. The engine try's to start I think. It stumbles and simi locks like it's trying to fire but not enough to keep it turning. fuse's look good, the ones I know of.
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