Suburban :: 96 - Intermittent Stalling Upon Coming To A Stop
Jul 30, 2008
I have owned this 96 k1500 5.7L Vortex Suburban for 3 years.
Problem: Intermittent stalling upon coming to a stop. When it stalls and I try to restart the engine, the starter can barely spin the motor. The timing is thrown so far advanced that it will literally fire the engine backward and grind the starter gear on the flywheel. I have killed about six starters so far. I took it to the dealership and after two weeks they are clueless.
So far we have replaced: TPS, Ignition Module, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, ECM, and perhaps a few other things I don't recall at this time. If it would stall and simply restart, I could cope with it. The only way I have found to get it to start is when it stalls, pop hood, unplug the power source to the ignition coil, turn key and spin engine over for a few seconds, replug the power source to the ignition coil, and attempt a restart. Usually I don't have to do this more than once or twice.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
When starting the car (2002 Toyota Camry XLE) with 114k miles, I noticed that I can gasoline. I also have a rare intermittent stalling when brake & come to a stop. Earlier post: [URL] ....
What could cause the smell of gasoline when I start my car? Is this something that needs to be fixed or can it be ignored? Would this be something that could cause intermittent stalling when braking? After the stall happens, I'm unable to immediately start the car but it starts normally after 15 minutes. Is this the result of some flooding by the gasoline?
View 19 Replies
Last Thursday I was coming home from work and the first time I came to a stop the R32 began to buck just as I gave it a little gas. Tried stopping and starting it but it continued to do it the rest of the trip home. Fast forward to this morning (first time we've driven it since) and it completely stalled on my wife on her way to work. She managed to get it started and get it home. I drove it around the block and sure enough when it comes to a stop after moving it stalls. I was able to consistently get it to stall just by getting it moving and then coming to a stop. I scanned it for codes last night and got a couple of different codes. Ignore the photo-sensor one - I am fixing that just need to find what I did with it.
Note the address 17 stuff - 2 codes to do with failure of the fuel sending unit. Could this possibly cause the car to stall out?
Also, address 16 (steering wheel) - RossTech seems to think these codes mean a faulty ignition switch.
I've never done data logging before but I was able to capture one of the stalls with VCDS. What columns would be useful to see and troubleshoot?
Here's the link to the log
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
View 6 Replies
I've recently had problems with my truck running 97 f150 4.2L.The latest episode is it stalling when coming to a stop. It will start right back up, I've checked for codes and found none, I have changed the fuel and air filters and I have tested the fuel pressure.(I have a video of the test however I don't know how to upload it.) Key on engine off it pumps up to 30 immediately on the gauge. key on engine running gauge shows a steady 32. I am really at a loss for what to check next. I really need this truck dependable again ASAP my wife is scared to drive it.
View 11 Replies
I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee 4.0L with 215xxx miles. It just started stalling coming up to a stop, but then it starts right up no problem. Engine idles a little rough and the gas mileage has gone down somewhat. The CEL came on a while ago, and the auto shop checked the computer code and said it was the neutral safety switch. I brought this up with a friend who had the same problem and he rebuilt his and said it was easy. So I was going to attempt it, but I can't find the darn thing. @ questions:
1)where is it? and
2)could the NSS be causing the stalling?
View 11 Replies
I have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
View 4 Replies
2002 Honda Accord, 4 cyl., will stall unexpectedly when coming to a stop or slowing down. It will start to shake and hesitate as one is slowing down from 35+ mph, then will stall at the stop. Has some trouble restarting, but when it does, everything seems to be fine. No codes are left, and my mechanic suspects dirt or something similar is contacting the fuel injector(s) on a sporadic basis. I did replace the spark plugs as they were due at the time this first showed up, but it has happened twice since in a 3 month period.
View 3 Replies
My beloved standard, 2000 Ford Ranger, with an estimated 170,000 miles on it, has a problem with stalling that keeps getting worse. 2 different garages have failed to fix this problem three times. Many parts have been replaced/checked (like battery, plugs/wires) and the fuel and induction system was cleaned, fuel pressure, Compression and engine vacuum were all fine. The Check Engine Light goes on and off all the time and does not seem to relate to the problem. When the last garage hooked it up to the computer, nothing related to the problem was identified, they reported. The invoice/report from them is attached to this posting.
My problem began about 2 years ago. The truck would only stall out when I first began driving, after about a mile, and only if I was going downhill and was coming to a stop. Then it would putter and choke and ultimately stall out completely. After my 30 minute commute (near highway speeds) the truck would then be fine the rest of the day, with no problems stalling when I drove to a meeting or out to lunch. Since it began, it has gotten steadily worse. Now, pretty much whenever I decelerate downhill, and come to a halt, it will stall out unless I leave it in neutral and keep fluttering the gas peddle to give it more gas. It even happens when I'm not going downhill. It does not happen when I first start driving, but after a mile or so, it happens almost whenver I come to a stop. It sounds like the truck isn't getting enough gas, and if I don't keep pumping it with signifcantly more gas, it will stall.
Once stalled out, if I try to start it up again immediately, it is VERY hard to make it start. I have to keep turning it over before it finally sparks to life. It sounds pretty awful. otherwise it starts easily. IF, however, I let it stall out in a parking lot at a gas station, for example, and I go into the store and make a couple quick purchases, when I go out to start the truck, it fires right up with no problem. It only has a VERY hard time starting up when I'm in an intersection and try to re-start it immediately after it stalls out.
The two different garages that have failed to fix it were both able to easily replicate the problem, so that was not an issue. Amount of gas in the truck and temperature outside are both irrelevant.
View 3 Replies
I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
View 2 Replies
2 questions regarding our 2001 F150 Supercrew. My 2 questions are:
My 2001 Ford F150 Supercrew (5.4L, 230,000 miles)has the check engine light on with the code reader telling me that it is the P0174. The truck would run rough when cold (usually in the mornings) and sometimes it would get close to stalling out when coming to a stop light. So we would quickly put it in park and give it some gas to rev it up a bit. After the truck gets warmed up, it runs great with no hint of the rough idle. Since this all started I have changed out the PCV valve and replaced the PCV hose (including the elbow). I have also replaced the Idle Air Control unit but that didn't really make a difference.
We then experienced a cylinder #4 misfire which we resolved by changing out the cop with a new Motorcraft unit. The misfire went away but we still had the problem of running rough at idle to the point of stalling out at stops when the engine is cold. A few weeks ago we cleaned the MAF sensor and that seemed to work. The truck doesn't run as rough now (when cold) at stop-lights, but occasionally it will still have the loping idle. We cleared the check engine code and it stayed off for about a week before returning.
I don't know what else to check other than trying to see if there is some type of vacuum leak, but I don't have access to a smoke machine nor would I know how or where to hook one up. Removing and cleaning the throttle body would work? What could be causing the trouble, or what I should do to further isolate or troubleshoot the problem? I saw a you-tube video on the F150 intake manifold gasket possibly being the problem and although I hope that isn't the trouble with my truck, if it is then I will have to deal with it. We need the truck to get to work and the car is now due for a registration renewal, but we can't get a California smog certificate with the check engine light on.
View 3 Replies
I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
View 2 Replies
86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
View 9 Replies
I have a 99 Suburban with very high miles. Going on 306K mostly highway miles. This is our baby and the best vehicle I've ever owned. This is a solid vehicle that I think we can get more miles out of.
The problem is that it will intermittently surge or shudder between 40-60mph during acceleration. It's hard to pinpoint because it doesn't happen all the time. It seems to be worse if the vehicle is low on gas or the engine is cold but I'm not certain about that. It's not hard enough to call a buck, jerk, or sputter though. Maybe I've over-analyzing but basically it will shift to the correct gear and then back down then back up etc., and back and forth for very brief seconds. Then levels out after 60mph and there are no other problems. If the gas is low or engine is cold is does this in lower gears as well but usually only around 4th gear. I hope this description makes sense.
Here's where I'm confused. The transmission was rebuilt 2 weeks ago specifically the torque converter and rear planetaries. The day we got it back we performed a tune-up so all new plugs/wires/cap/rotor. The fuel filter was replaced about 8 months ago and the fuel pump 2 years ago. All regular maintenance has been performed on time since we bought it 4 years ago. Yesterday the Service Engine Soon light came on and it only showed one code (OBD II), PO161, so we replaced the 02 Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 2).
However the problem persists and there are no other codes providing any direction. I've tried to search the internet for drivers with the same issue but the fixes vary too much and seem uncertain.
Other known issues for diagnostics: four wheel drive hasn't worked for years (haven't needed it in our flatlands) and ac compressor went out last spring.
View 5 Replies
My 8-year-old (2003), 134k mile Nissan Maxima has a new quirk. When the car is started from completely cold (as in over night), there is a distinctive intermittent squeaking noise (think water being rubbed against glass) coming from the left front somewhere near the tire. The car only does this for about 5 minutes or so until it's warmed up and it has to be going 20 miles an hour before it starts. Once the car is up and running you can turn it on and off all day, let it sit for a few hours even, and it's fine. What's going on?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2005 Suburban Z71 and when in 2wd it will run for several miles then just stop moving like it is in neutral. In auto 4wd it runs just fine. What could this problem be and will it be okay to drive in auto 4wd until I get it to the shop?
View 1 Replies
We have a 99 Suburban LT 5.7 V8 4x4 with 210K miles. My wife was driving the vehicle the other day and while at a stop light the oil pressure got very low approximately 20psi according to the gauge. I need to find the oil pressure sensor location to check the true pressure using a pressure gauge but I can't seem to find it. From what I've read it should be by the oil filter or by the distributor cap or on the underside of the engine. It's neither around the oil filter or the distributor (using a mirror looking everywhere) nor on the underside of the engine.
What I have found is two sensors. A sensor I believe by #1 and #3 spark plug (driver's side) screwed into the block and a sensor on the passenger side of the engine (screwed into the block) accessed from underneath the vehicle. The sensor on the driver's side of the vehicle appears to be the best candidate however neither of the sensors looks like the replacement part when I view the picture of the sensor online.
View 14 Replies
2000 Jetta 2.0. 140k miles. Cranked, but would not fire. Sprayed starter fluid... nothing. No spark. Checked fuel pump and fuel pump relay, all is well. I let it sit over night. I tried starting it, ran for 4 to 5 seconds shut off. Disconnected MAF sensor, it ran. Put in a new MAF sensor, back to cranking no fire. Let it sit over night, started up again. Tried to drive, stalled. Unpliged MAF sensor, now its running. Drove around parking lot. Afraid to take it out, don't want to be stranded.
View 1 Replies
97 Suburban 5.7. When starting, engine turns over normally, but every 2 seconds or so the motor will completely and suddenly stop rotating for a split second, then start cranking again. It is as if every few seconds there is a buildup of compression in a cylinder that won't allow it to turn over. It will eventually start and run normally, but i believe this has contributed to going through 3 starters within 20k miles. The starters are free (warranty) but getting tired of putting them in.
View 6 Replies
The problem began with intermittent stalling and now the Jeep will not start at all (no spark). I have had the cap, rotor, primary ignition coil, crank sensor, cam position sensor and PCM replaced without any luck. The repair bills have been brutal. The garage has given up.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix with only 32,000 miles and has been meticulously maintained. I am experiencing engine stalling both while driving and at rest. I have taken the car to both a diagnostic center and the GM Dealer and neither one can isolate the problem. I have replaced the fuel filter, the Throttle Pressure Switch, and the Idle Air Control Motor. When placed on the diagnostic computer there are no error codes and the car runs well until it randomly dies. I can sometimes recreate the problem when I climb a hill at about 35 MPH and when I reach the top release the accelerator and the engine will die. I can kick it into Neutral and it restarts right away. Sometimes, after driving it, it will be slow starting requiring a longer than usual starter crank. What about possible causes?
View 11 Replies
We have a 1996 Nissan Quest - but only 72000 miles (we bought it from our daughters' 90 year old piano teacher who only used it for camping trips with 45K miles 3 years ago) I have an intermittent stalling problem. Only at low speed, sometimes going up hill or into a turn, but it's also happened going straight on, I get a compete loss of power. Still have steering, (not power) so I wrestle the beast over, and it restarts right away. No check engine light. This has happened about 6 times. Not low gas level, usually 1/2 + tank. No codes.
View 2 Replies
