Suburban :: 95TD 2500 / No Power When Towing?
Dec 1, 2012
If I tow only 3000 lbs my truck has a hard time making it up even semi steep hills, how do I go about trouble shooting this?
View 8 RepliesIf I tow only 3000 lbs my truck has a hard time making it up even semi steep hills, how do I go about trouble shooting this?
View 8 RepliesI just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
View 14 RepliesShort version is that I just did the EBPV delete with new pedestal and turbo exhaust outlet and put a new turbo middle cartridge in as mine had blown a seal and possibly broken the shaft. Once I got it all put together, I took it for a test drive and it was building 20PSI like it used to but I didn't have the accumulator and turbo mated up fully so I had a leak there.
I corrected that and now don't get any boost until I get to about 2500RPM and then it only builds to about 10PSI. I've double and triple checked all my connections, boots, etc. and everything is tight on the intake, intercooler, up-pipes and collector, exhaust and the spider, I can't see or feel any problems there. I tried disconnecting the MAP sensor and it might be a little better but not even close to normal.
Tried disconnecting the red line from the wastegate and plugging it with no difference. I'm stuck, and frustrated. I do have AE, watching the MGP looks like the MAP sensor is working. I feel like I'm overlooking something simple but I just can't figure out what it is...
Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
Last year while towing my fifth wheel to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon my oil temp went to 260 degrees several times. The outside temps were 95 degrees at the start and it is a long steep climb with a heavy load. Each time I pulled over for a bit, as I couldn't remember at what temp that plastic thing inside the oil filter melted. Each time it cooled off fairly quickly but it really stressed me out. So how hot can the oil get. I am using Rotella T-6 and my temp different is only 12-15 unloaded. Could I allow 280 for 15 minutes or so?
View 11 RepliesI have a 05 6.0l that started over heating while towing recently. In 2012 i did egr delete, oil cooler, stc fitting, and coolant filter. I recently changed radiator and tstat think that was the problem due to small leak in radiator, but still towing about a 4-5k load temps rise to over heat while towing. What to look for next. Also fan seems to be work properly I monitor fan speed etc., and tft on my scangauge.
View 14 RepliesI have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
Just looking for comments on using the cruise control while towing? and what's the recommended weight for using the tow haul mode. The enclosed trailer I have is about 3300 lbs. taking it across the country empty. 2004 6 liter.
View 11 RepliesI've got a 99 Nissan Avinir that runs good (until) you try an rev past 2500 revs, the car losses power until it revs again under 2500, its like its automated to do this or is having intake problems, it was running good before stored it, I put in a new petrol pump, it had been siting for a while. It runs fine under 2500 rpm no problems but wont go over 2500 rpm.
View 19 RepliesNormally I run around sea level at home but Iam on road trip in Wyoming at over 5000' elevation I am noticing alot more black smoke when towing. I run a DP tuner with 40 and 60hp tow mode. I also notice alot more black smoke in 60HP Econo Mode when not towing? Would this be typical due to the higher elevation?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
View 14 RepliesI was towing the 5er (about 15000#), across Southern Mn and SD today going right into a 20-25 mph wind in upper 90 temps, saw 228 on the oil temp and 199 on the tranny temp. When tow need to see for warmest temps and at what point you start to get concerned...
View 10 RepliesTook my first camping with 2012 King Ranch F350 and 37 feet Challenger 12k fifth wheel trailer over the weekend.
I noticed there is lot of transmission slips in first gear. Once it enters 2nd gear, no more slips.
My previous Chev 2008 2500HD diesel didn't slip much with same trailer.
Is this normal for this F350? My rear ratio is 3.55. No slips without hauling.
Maybe I need to ask dealer to check 1st gear towing?
I've got about 1100 miles on my new truck now and I will be heading to S.D in a week or so towing my car hauler with FJ40 on top and camping gear. About 10 000 pds.
Would it be wise to dump the factory oil and go with 5w40 Rotella? It has been getting really hot here the last two weeks and its only getting hotter as I drive south.
Over the holiday weekend I towed my 13k# 5th wheel 180 miles to the campgrounds.
According to my Torque Pro app, soot was around mid 30% when I left home. Upon arrival it had passively dropped to single digits.
After driving unloaded a few times over the weekend, the soot level had gone back up to mid 30s.
While towing home it again had passively dropped back to 1.1% .......... then boom! A regen starts.
After 22 miles it completed and soot had dropped to -13.2%.
So towing heavy, passively burning soot off, exhaust temps in the 700-800 weren't good enough for the system.
It had to start a regen and boost tempts to the 1100-1200 range WHILE TOWING to basically burn off NOTHING.
Not to mention drop my already poor MPG to single digits.
Just venting about what appears to be unnecessary exposure to high temps and wasted fuel.
I was towing a fairly heavy trailer yesterday (around 10k) and laying into the throttle to gain some speed before a big hill when I completely lost power. It slowed me down to about 10 MPH.
I was able to drive home at very slow speeds and the only way to get over 10 MPH (only up to about 20MPH was to very lightly accelerate up to speed. Any hard acceleration and it cut me off to 10 MPH. No warning lights of any kind going off...
Truck has a Hypertech Max Energy programmer on stage 2.