Suburban :: 87 Start Intermittent / Cranks But No Fire Not Even A Sputter
Oct 5, 2014
I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
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2001 Ex V-10 4x4. Ran like a top yesterday. Turns over fine but not even a sputter today. Plenty of fuel & battery. Has spark. Tried starting fluid, but nothing. No codes. Checked fuses and relays in dash & under hood. Fast forward an hour...
Went out and tried it again - fired up like nothing ever happened. Plowed snow for the better part of an hour, - ran like a champ again, smooth, no missing or stutters - parked it and shut it off. Tried to start it again within a minute or so and it would start, run rough & die. Tried a few more times with same results. Now it cranks fine but no start, no sputter. Gonna try a fuel filter tomorrow.
If it were the fuel pump, wouldn't it throw a code?
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'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
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I don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
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I have a stock 1994 Celica GT with the 5sfe M/T .... I do have a headgasket leaking, and I am having another motor rebuilt and put in next month. I just need to nurse this one along for now. Right now it cranks but will not start. does not even fire up at all.
Code 12 - so I got another dizzy from the salvage yard, the pickup coils ohm out like they should as does the ignition coil. and I bought a brand new condenser for it as the old one tested bad. and when I first got the dizzy i put it in and it fired right up and ran for a couple days, then began doing it again. I went back to the salvage yard and grabbed another one that tested good, and when I put it in it fired up the first time but then shut off and has not started since.
But is it possible for the distributor to still be the problem even though the coils test ok? the shaft doesn't have any play in it, and the air gaps are within spec. I can barely get a .2mm between them. I also grabbed a couple of igniters while I was there. When I get it to run it may die when its cold and give me a code 14.
So from there I'm down to testing the distributor circuit, and the starter signal circuit, and the ECU. What is the best way to go about testing this to be Certain of what I need to go buy instead of just replacing stuff.
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I have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
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My 95 Honda accord 4 cy. vtech, will turn over but not will start, you can try unlimited times and it just cranks, but no fire or start.... UNLESS I wait about 30 seconds first. In this time what happens is, for 15 seconds the usual dash lights are on, including check engine light, at 16 seconds the D4 green transmission light starts to flash rapidly. At 30 seconds the main relay can be heard to finally click in, and the fuel pump whirs and primes the fuel system for 1.5 seconds and immediately the check engine light turns off, the D4 light turns off, and the fuel pump also stops whirring. AT this point, at any time from here on out, (until you turn the car off again) you can turn the key the rest of the way to start, and the engine cranks over and now immediately starts right up!
Sometimes all the above happens just as described, but the D4 transmission position light does not start to flash. Everything else happens the same way and timing and after 30 seconds the car will start. NOTES: a. The obd trouble codes do not flash any codes when the jumper is put in place to read the codes. b. I have removed and checked the main relay, looked ok, and just in case I re-soldered all connections on the main relay board. c.the car drives and shifts fine. d. The time frames are exactly the same every time. Electronically perfectly the same, like the computer finally decides, OK go ahead and work now. Or like the car is attempting by some programmed response to say that something is wrong and needs attention.
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I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
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I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
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My 93 honda accord cranks but wont start it has fuel and fire from the coil but not to the plugs, had new distbuter 1 year ago could my computer be bad...
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
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I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
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My 05 GP randomly decides not to start. it turns over well but no fire . Sometimes even when I just stop for gas when its already warm. if I leave it for a few minutes usually it will start, run a little rough for a minute then run fine till next episode. no faults show up. I was thinking maybe the fuel pump relay was acting up.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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2002 E-250 with the 4.6 V-6. Pulled the 30 amp fuse, replaced the fuel filter, replaced the fuse, now the truck wont start. Checked the fuse and the kill switch under the passenger kick cover, all ok. Cranks and cranks but wont fire. No problem prior to changing the filter. Even swithed out the relay with another, no luck.
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01 supercrew 4.6. Have had intermittent no start. The first few times it did start with a jump. Cranks fine but I thought the battery was weak. Replaced battery, same issue. 40 psi gas pressure at the fuel rail with analog gage. Theft light blinks with battery inserted. Theft light not illuminated while cranking. Battery light flashes while cranking. Battery is brand-new and charged. Opened and closed inertia switch several times to check.
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From a cold start, my '89 Civic starts and runs just fine - on a short trip. If I shut it off for 15 minutes and let it sit, then try to restart it, it cranks REALLY slow, misfires and won't start (like the cylinders are fighting each other). The battery's brand new, with plenty of juice. So the next time it happened, I disconnected all 4 plug wires - it cranked nice and fast, no resistance. This leads me to believe that the ignition timing is getting messed up once the engine warms up. I think the coil is fine, because the plugs are firing when the wires are connected. I'm thinking it could be a bad sensor that acts up when it gets warm. My prime suspect is the TDC/Crank Sensor. Does the TDC/Crank Sensor can fail when warm?
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