I have a 2005 Suburban Z71 and when in 2wd it will run for several miles then just stop moving like it is in neutral. In auto 4wd it runs just fine. What could this problem be and will it be okay to drive in auto 4wd until I get it to the shop?
View 1 RepliesI have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
View 6 Replies2007 GX470 - Just noticed a distinct whining/humming sound similar to tire hum you would have with aggressive off-road tread tires. Seems to come alive around 20mph (or at least that's when I can hear it) and gets louder with the increase in speed. As I slow the sound goes away. Only does it while moving and not in neutral with engine rev.
We bought the car at 59k and it just hit 70k . Only oil changes, tire rotation have been done since we bought it. The tires were new when purchased so they have about 10k on them. No noise when we first got the car so I tend to think it's not related to the tread.
I was planning to do the front/read diff and transfer case drain/fill. Wondering if that may be the cause.
Something else - at low speed in tight turn (i.e. backing out of garage, pulling into parking spots) I do feel some roughness - almost like the differential is locked. Not sure if that is an indication. Was thinking it may be a wheel bearing but there is no clunking when turning.
I have owned this 96 k1500 5.7L Vortex Suburban for 3 years.
Problem: Intermittent stalling upon coming to a stop. When it stalls and I try to restart the engine, the starter can barely spin the motor. The timing is thrown so far advanced that it will literally fire the engine backward and grind the starter gear on the flywheel. I have killed about six starters so far. I took it to the dealership and after two weeks they are clueless.
So far we have replaced: TPS, Ignition Module, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, ECM, and perhaps a few other things I don't recall at this time. If it would stall and simply restart, I could cope with it. The only way I have found to get it to start is when it stalls, pop hood, unplug the power source to the ignition coil, turn key and spin engine over for a few seconds, replug the power source to the ignition coil, and attempt a restart. Usually I don't have to do this more than once or twice.
We have a 99 Suburban LT 5.7 V8 4x4 with 210K miles. My wife was driving the vehicle the other day and while at a stop light the oil pressure got very low approximately 20psi according to the gauge. I need to find the oil pressure sensor location to check the true pressure using a pressure gauge but I can't seem to find it. From what I've read it should be by the oil filter or by the distributor cap or on the underside of the engine. It's neither around the oil filter or the distributor (using a mirror looking everywhere) nor on the underside of the engine.
What I have found is two sensors. A sensor I believe by #1 and #3 spark plug (driver's side) screwed into the block and a sensor on the passenger side of the engine (screwed into the block) accessed from underneath the vehicle. The sensor on the driver's side of the vehicle appears to be the best candidate however neither of the sensors looks like the replacement part when I view the picture of the sensor online.
97 Suburban 5.7. When starting, engine turns over normally, but every 2 seconds or so the motor will completely and suddenly stop rotating for a split second, then start cranking again. It is as if every few seconds there is a buildup of compression in a cylinder that won't allow it to turn over. It will eventually start and run normally, but i believe this has contributed to going through 3 starters within 20k miles. The starters are free (warranty) but getting tired of putting them in.
View 6 RepliesLast Thursday I was coming home from work and the first time I came to a stop the R32 began to buck just as I gave it a little gas. Tried stopping and starting it but it continued to do it the rest of the trip home. Fast forward to this morning (first time we've driven it since) and it completely stalled on my wife on her way to work. She managed to get it started and get it home. I drove it around the block and sure enough when it comes to a stop after moving it stalls. I was able to consistently get it to stall just by getting it moving and then coming to a stop. I scanned it for codes last night and got a couple of different codes. Ignore the photo-sensor one - I am fixing that just need to find what I did with it.
Note the address 17 stuff - 2 codes to do with failure of the fuel sending unit. Could this possibly cause the car to stall out?
Also, address 16 (steering wheel) - RossTech seems to think these codes mean a faulty ignition switch.
I've never done data logging before but I was able to capture one of the stalls with VCDS. What columns would be useful to see and troubleshoot?
Here's the link to the log
01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ......
When accelerating from a dead stop I can feel a small bump/jolt coming from the rear. It only happens when you move from a dead stop. Its not a shift. Its more noticeable this week.
If I lock the AWD it does not do it. But when I turn off the AWD lock (at 20 -30 kms/hr) I can feel the bump - as if the driveshaft is disengaging.
Its a 2010 3.5 V6 AWD. 115,000 kms on the odometer. I had the viscous coupler replaced last Oct under warranty. I'm taking it in for an oil change and brake job next week.
i am wondering if any other touareg v-10 owners have experienced what i call "slop in the drivetrain"?symptoms: when just crawling off from a dead stop and then letting off of the pedal i can both hear and feel a little clunk whether forward or reverse. its real subtle but its always there if you listen for it. Is this just what they call normal "slash" of the worm gears in the differentials? i would hate to find out later once warranty's gone that i should have done something about it earlier? i have 19,000 miles on it, 70%highway and 30% city driving.
View 5 RepliesWhile this is not for my Touraeg but my 2006 Passat, I cannot get the seat to adjust. It keeps moving back to some default position.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1988 Toyota Camry. I was driving to work this morning, the car was driving fine. After about 10 mile or so, I stopped at a red light, when the light changed the car wouldn't accelerate it seemed to have a really bad hesitation. If i let off the gas it would idle fine, none of the warning lights are on. However, when I give it more gas the car doesn't have any power at all. It has plenty of gas in it and the exhaust has no signs of any oil or water in it. I was thinking it may be a bad fuel filter or a tank of bad gas.
View 6 RepliesI have an '05 Suburban with starting issues. When it's cold out (below 40 degrees) and you turn the key, all accessories come on but truck will not crank. It then seems like the power just cuts off.......dash lights go out but gauges are fixed in place and a couple of seconds later, I hear a strange buzzing noise from the dash area behind the radio and the gauges will then go to power off position. Then if I try to start it, there is nothing, no lights on dash, no starter engaging, no clicking of the relays, nothing. I tried, on a hunch to disconnect the ground lead from the battery. Had it off for 10 minutes or so, put the cable back on, tightened it down (wasn't loose to begin with) and it started right up first try in 20 degree weather. I had previously had the battery and alt checked and both were good.
View 3 RepliesOK, this is the second time I noticed this. I'm at a stop light, looking around, suddenly, I notice I am slightly moving forward. Is my foot (on the brake) just too relaxed, or what? I have never experienced this before in any vehicle.
View 14 RepliesI am hearing a clicking sound when shifting and perhaps an unrelated but similar click when I am pressing the gas peddle from a stop. Perhaps a CV joint? I'm taking the car in to the dealer (approximately 79,000 km or 48,000 miles) on the 20th to give the car a once over.
View 6 RepliesI drive a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid. For about three months now, sometimes when I brake the pedal only moves a couple of inches, freezes and the car won't stop. The car also makes a strange intermittent sound like someone humming with his mouth open. Sometimes the brake light comes on the dashboard, sometimes the ABS light, sometimes both, sometimes neither. When I take it in to the garage, everyone reports there is no code for them to read. During this time I have had the bearings (noticed road noise) and the brakes (squeaking) replaced in the rear right wheel.
Before the brakes were replaced, when the pedal froze, I stopped the car by pulling on the emergency brake, putting the car in neutral and/or turning the car off. When I restart the car, everything goes back to normal. Since the brakes were replaced, I haven't had to go to those extremes. I take my foot off the brake, depress it again, and the car usually stops. If the ABS/brake lights are on, I turn the car off and on again, and all goes back to normal. The problem could occur three times in a day or once in a month. I never know when it's going to happen. After reporting these symptoms to my local Ford dealership, the place where I buy my tires and my garage mechanic, they all shrugged and said they couldn't do anything. I'm thinking no one wants to be liable when the crash comes.
I've had my truck start making a nice CLUNK from the vicinity of the rear axle when starting moving from a standstill. (and it's a pretty decent thunk sometimes, you hear it AND feel it). I called and made an appt to bring it in and have it checked out (also having the first oil change done and gonna see if they can figure out why the automatic headlights are almost always on even on a bright sunny day) ...
View 14 Replies2005 K1500LT: I've read quite a few posts about the wet carpet problem with these suburbans, but now I have to pin this down quickly. It's not from the a/c condensation because I'm not running the a/c right now and the water has seeped in again. So, scratch that one.
I first noticed it the other day after 6 days of rain (yeah...in Las Vegas). The floor was wet from the front to the rear seats on the passenger side...and the windshield was fogged on the inside when I opened the doors after it sitting for a few days nose up on my inclined driveaway. I dried it all out with a heater and fans.
Then, I took it through a local carwash to see if I could find the source of the water. There wasn't really any inside that I could find, but the upper footwell against the firewall did seem damp. Still, nothing that would be a problem. So, I parked it in my driveway nose downhill. It rained last night so I checked the carpet again this AM. It was soaked and even had a small puddle in the r.f. corner. I pulled up the carpet and am now trying to dry out the pad underneath.
I had looked as closely as possible at the firewall yesterday and couldn't see any open holes or missing grommets. The front end was repaired just before I bought it and the two cowl trim pieces on each corner below the windshield are missing...but any water coming in that area should drain down outside the interior area. I haven't found any plugged drains YET. If the windshield was replaced I guess it could be leaking, but not sure how to isolate that from the cowl to test it. The door trim/gaskets were dry on the inside so I don't think it's coming through the door seal...maybe.
So...where are the drains and any other place water could come in from a light rain coming directly down and the truck facing downward?????
My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
View 16 RepliesI just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
I got an Error Code of U0D00. What this is or means. The scan tool says to refer to your manual but I don't have one.
What the vehicle is doing is that it will work fine for a while then when you stop (in park) the engine will rev really high and back down all by it self for example. It will go up to 3.5 and back to 1 rpm repeated. Then when you start moving the car it will continue to idle higher like you are pressing the gas. During all of this the check engine light will appear?
Passat moving forward very slightly every few seconds while stopped with auto stop button engaged? It happened twice to me today on a flat surface.
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