Suburban :: 2004 - AC Would Switch To Full Heat All Of A Sudden
Mar 29, 2013
2004 Suburban with dual manual a/c controls. My problem was first going from a/c all of the sudden it would switch to full heat. I could pull over stop the engine for a minute and restart and it would correct itself. Started doing this a lot so I replaced the mod door on drivers side. It worked for a couple weeks and started same thing again. I put it in the shop and they replaced the other two mod doors and did a lot of wire testing and even talked to Chevy. They were able to correct the air and heat problem but now I have a problem with the air going to the defrost and floor, maybe a little out of the dash and you no matter what you select it will not move to just floor or dash etc.
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When I purchased my suburban the a/c and heat would sometimes work in the front and rear. They "fixed" the problem and now a year later the entire rear component works sometimes and not others.
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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I have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
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Simultaneously driver door lock switch does not work but door lock when shifting into drive and when shifting into park. RR passenger door lock is jammed, cannot move electrically or manually. All this at the same time!
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I have a 2002 Suburban 1500LT with rear wiper, and it has intermittent capabilities. Recently the rear wiper arm appears to be trying to park over and over when the switch is turned to off. Once in awhile it will make a full pass but then it goes back to the endless park syndrome.
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My front passenger window switch seems to have died. Where is the easiest/cheapest place to get one right away?
1996 1500LT, window works fine when I use the driver door switches.
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I just picked up a beautiful 98 Ranger and the only thing I can find wrong with it is a HVAC problem. I bought the truck through the owners brother and they informed me that the AC would work if you "moved something under the dash".
So far, this is what I know:
The temperature out of the vents is full hot, all the time meaning even with the temp control all the way down to cool with the mode selector (Max AC/AC/ Vent/ Off etc.) in any position, all you get is max temp hot air out of the vents. The mode selector does seem to work in as much as it can re- direct the air to the proper outlets when it it operated.
At first I started looking at the AC system itself but now I think it's a control problem. The AC clutch relay, fuse, low pressure switch, clutch field coil, static refrig. pressure and power to the clutch circuit all look OK.
I poked around under the hood looking for vacuum leaks but there was nothing obvious and like I said, the mode selector works, so there's some source of vacuum for them. Also, The hot water valve is actuated when the selector is on the MAX AC or OFF positions as it should be.
Does this sound like a blend door problem? A bad temperature control? I am not well versed in this system and I'm wondering why even if the blend door is stuck or broken (an assumption), the AC compressor will not come on. I have already checked both the selector and the temperature controls to make sure they weren't stripped and spinning on their shafts.
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My dad's 1993 Lincoln Town Car runs great but the fan for heat or AC only will run at full blast or nothing. Makes it difficult to drive when it's real hot or cold out. Can this be remedied without costing an arm and a leg? The car is 21 yrs. old and not worth a lot.
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The heating system on my 99 3.4. I'm not getting hot air when selected to full hot or defrost, The air is warm but not hot. I do have water flow through the heater core, I have not changed the thermostat yet. Could it be the dashboard control panel, When I place the blower fan to full on, the fan goes off??
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The air conditioner works fine. Auxillary heat works fine. Heat won't switch from cold to hot in the front of the car. What would cause this?
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Presenlty my switch that turns on the heat/ac is dark as is the switch for the speed for that device is dark. Are these bulbs that burn out and just need replacing? the two other switches in that area are lit and fine. Or could it be a wiring issue?
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My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem where the heater & A/C work fine, the fan is blowing a lot of air but it will not switch between the defrost, heat & floor locations. Right now about 90% of the air is blowing out on the floor(freezing my feet with A/C) while about 5% comes out of the dash vents and 5% out of the windshield vents. No amount of adjusting will change these. I've changed the cabin air filter which didn't work and have ruled out the fan as it sounds great and pushing a lot of air out at the lower vent.
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I have a 2003 Impala LS with around 114,000 miles. I noticed today that the control switch that turns on the AC or heat is not fully working right. My switch has 5 levels, and on levels 1 and 2 nothing happens. But when I switch to levels 3-4 or 5 it works just fine.
My question is is fixing this going to involve removing the entire dash from the car? My guess it's a contact issue, and figure it might be pricy to get repaired.
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I have a SAAB 2000 95, and the heat isn't working. I was told by a local shop that the blend door motor isn't opening to allow the system to switch from air to heat. He said that the heating system was working, but that the hot air can't exit the dash. He said it would have to be repaired at a dealership.
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I have a 2001 F-350 S/D w/7.3. Question is... Is it possible for the mode switch ( one controls floor/ defrost and A/c ) to not function or should I say leave the a/c on even if it is not in a/c position? What I have noticed was that when it is in the floor mode or the vent mode (not the floor/vent) the compressor does not come on. When it is in vent/floor or either a/c modes it does. Is this normal... I don't think so though I do know anytime the a/c is switched on compressor should come on but no time without a/c being on.. Maybe I'm wrong
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Can I use the remote climate control switch to heat the cabin during cold mornings as well as cool the cabin during hot summer days?
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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(2007 model)
For a slight re-cap, first time I had to hit the brakes suddenly, the front 12V plug went out. Alright, thought that was a bit odd, but continuing on.
Second time was a few years later, earlier this summer actually. Had to hit the brakes fairly hard to avoid hitting an idiot dashing across lanes. Entire MFD, radio, cig plug, the whole front works went out. Got online and after a bit of searching found a post saying to check the ACC-B fuse. Sure enough that was it.
So now we're at the third time. Same thing, sudden braking, ACC-B fuse blew. Replaced it, started up the car, blew again. Replaced it, started up the car, blew again. so now I'm at 3 25A fuses that have blown in the past 2 hours, 2 of them within 60 seconds of the car turning on.
One thing I did think was kind of interesting is when I turned the car on, I could hear various noises which sounded like electrical components doing a startup sequence, then it blows. The only thing I have in that front area is a tiny 12V camera, nothing else plugged in at all.
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Our 2007 Prius had previously been averaging high 40s MPG but the past few weeks has dropped to around 38 and won't move much higher... we are using the A/C a little more than the past few months but not on full constantly or anything like that... first time I've seen MPG this low since we've owned the car (20 months).
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