Suburban :: 2003 - Reduced Engine Power / RPMs Drop To Below 1000
Jun 17, 2007
IOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
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I have a 1997 Saturn SL1 with 100k. Every so often the RPMs will drop by 500-1000 or so for a second and then come back up to normal. This happens both when stopped at a light and while accelerating, and doesn't seem to happen predictably. I've already changed the filters and cleaned out the IAC, without any success. I've sprayed the obvious connection points in hopes of locating a potential vacuum leak, also without any luck. Other ways to locate a potential vacuum leak that wouldn't be overly time-intensive?
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If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
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I purchased my 2013 F350 PSD July of 2014 and immediately noticed "the shudder" when the engine was lugged down to 1000-1100 rpms on a hill. Sounding like somewhere around the turbo belching air too. At first I was startled but learned to manually downshift to higher rpms and it will stop. Once or twice I tried accelerating out of it and it shuddered as bad as the poster who said it made the steering shudder too.
My truck has 16,000 miles and I never let the rpms drop now. So I figure I have a real problem I'm not imaging. What should I tell my dealer is the TSB or remedy ?
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Have a 2003 F-250 with 174,000 miles. Recently replaced CPS and ICP and it's running much better. It normally idles at about 700 rpm. Lately, after driving for any distance above ~40mph, when I come to a stop, the rpm won't drop below about 850 rpm. If I shift to neutral (automatic trans), the idle drops to around 700. At the next stop sign/light, it's back up to around 850.
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My '03 7.3 is "surging" on idle. When warmed up, and idling, the RPMs will drop by 300 or 400 for a few seconds and then will correct and shoot back up. It cycles like this (every 5 seconds-ish) continually . I just put in a new IDM and checked the UVCH - is there a separate idle control mechanism that I need to have a look at? (2003, 7.3, 214K, stock).
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the wife's '01 Excursion has developed a new idling quirk. While sitting, it will briefly drop rpm's. You can hear it, and see it on the tach gauge. No other noises or problems, except for the brief drop in rpm's.
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I have a 1998 Accord, 4-cylinder VTEC standard transmission, 226,000 miles. Last fall I first experienced a problem with the car where within 5-10 minutes of starting the engine and driving, the engine seems to lose power/fuel and RPMs act as if they'll drop low enough for the engine to stall. If I take my foot off the accelerator, and reapply, the engine seems to gain power again.
Also, if I open the accelerator to full while the problem is occurring, it can occasionally "push through" and gain power again. Similar things will happen while stopped. In neutral, RPMs fall low and suddenly jump back up and then settle into normal idle. The problem never persists longer than 10 minutes within starting the car.
I took my car into a local shop that came recommended by a friend. They investigated a "check engine" light that didn't explain the problem and were never able to recreate the condition themselves. They replaced a few parts but lost the work order so I don't even know what they changed, but the problem seemed to have solved itself for a while. Recently it started up again and I would love to sort it out.
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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I ran out and test drove a new to me 2001 F350 7.3L tonight. Everything seemed good, until I got back from the test drive. I pulled in and was sitting there with it idling. It seemed to idle fine, then a very small miss and very small shimmy then idle fine again; then another small miss and another shimmy. It continued like clockwork. Every time it seemed to miss and shimmy, the RPM would drop just a little, but not much. Does an ICP sensor sound like the problem, or maybe something more serious? 2001 F350 7.3L with 235,733 miles new trans, turbo replaced at 150,000 something miles. No blow by. Idled fine before driving, also drove fine. It doesn't seem to surge when idling, just kind stalls and shimmys for a split second then idles fine for a few seconds.
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Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
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From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
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I have random power drop off (best description is a loss then a surge or something like a skip) when driving over 60 mph. If I let off the gas or floor it the problem goes away temporarily. No mechanic has been able to figure it out. Chevy dealer just says "we don't have any codes".
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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My truck is an 2003 2500hd with the 6l engine and 89k miles. From time to time I'm getting message "reduced engine power". Usually at the morning after 10-15 minutes after starting. I have to pull over, shut it off, wait few seconds then restart it. The ses light goes off usually by end of the day ( or after few hours ). When scanned by chevy tech showing code P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance. I have new battery with new main cable. TAC Module was cleaned.
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I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
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I have a 2003 Escalade that I have maintained since day 1. Occasionally when driving the car it will say system disability and reduced engine power, which drops the speed to 20 and I can give all the gas I want it will not go. Happening on and off for 5 months. I can shut it on and off a couple times and it will go back to normal. Have taken it in a couple times to dealer and they have drove it and drove it and it behaves. They believe it is the Throttle body and sensor. But for the price of it, just replace the fuel pump 2 weeks ago, they suggest to see it happening to give me a 100% diagnosis. For now they believe it is that. Should I fix it or wait till it happens and slowly putt into the dealership.
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This has been a decent truck... lately you drive for 5 miles or so.. it goes to reduced engine power. if you get to side of the road and turn completely off and sit maybe 10 seconds or so, it goes fine again.... I have tried to get a computer reading, but by the time I have gotten it anywhere, the check engine light is off again..
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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I have a 2003 Ford Musang 3.8L v6 when I start my car for the first time of the day or after several hours of sitting the car idles high between 1000-1300 RPMs for approximately 15-20 seconds after that it idles down to 600-800 rpms. I changed the spark plugs wires air filter not sure what else it could be no Check engine light.
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I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
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