Suburban :: 2001 Chevy - AC Blowing Intermittently
Feb 5, 2015
I have been having problems with the rear heat & ac. It was blowing intermittently then we would have to tap the panel in the back right side to get it to work, it won't blow at all. Is it the blower motor?
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What seems to cause this problem of the ABS and brake light coming on at the same time intermittently. I can go an hour or so then pop -- then come on. Its a 2001 with a 5.3 in it.
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Where the factory amplifier can be found in a 1997 Chevy Suburban LT? MY Suburban still has the original radio with tape deck and with the 1-disc CD player under the A/C controls. I have already replaced all 6 old '97 speakers with new ones, and I would also like to install a better aftermarket amp with a sub woofer.I looked inside the rear quarter panels, under all seats, underneath the middle console.
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I have 2002 Chevy suburban. Recently, a high pitch whine has developed. When accelerating the whine intensifies. I replaced the alternator ... No change! What could it be? Speedometer cable?
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The truck we have is a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, 2-Wheel Drive with a 350 vortec engine. We replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets with no leaks for about a week and several hundred miles then it started leaking oil and then antifreeze after that.
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My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
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I have a 2002 chevy suburban 4wd with 156000 miles.. I had tires replaced last week due to them being chopped. They caused a low humming noise between 65-70mph. That was coming from the front.Below or above this speed the sound was not noticeable. I had new Coper AT-3 tires replace all around and balanced 5 days ago. The noise has become worse and starts at 61 mph and gets louder up to 70 an with a slight vibration . I have not gone above that speed to se if the noise goes away as I feel a bit uncomfortable going any faster with this issue . The tires were balanced so was wondering if I have bad tires or if the new tires being all terrain are causing more strain on what could be a bearing. The wheel bearings are fine and the rear bearings and pinion bearing were replaced two months ago . I know all terrains will make noise but not to this extent .
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban and for some reason I've having this problem the my one brake on the passenger side won't light up when you press the brake but the other side will. And also when I apply the turning signal on the passenger side it blinks really fast and you can see the front signal flashing fast but the back does not flash at all. So for some reason the brake and signal lights don't work at all on the back passenger side. But the running lights do go...
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So yesterday my truck decided to start giving me fits right after it finally got extra cold and snowy here! I noticed early on this fall that my water pump was leaking, so I replaced it. I also found that my truck only blew hot air while in motion, and cold air while it was stopped or at idle. At this point I replaced the thermostat and housing. I originally had the stock setup with the combined thermostat and housing. The new one is and updated GM version with the separate thermostat and housing assembly. Everything seemed to be ok until yesterday morning.
This is where my problem is now. Yesterday on my way to work, the message center said my coolant was too hot. The temp gauge showed the truck at about 250 degrees. My speed was only about 45mph and it was 6 degrees outside. I ended up parking the truck and looking at it after work. I found it was still doing the exact same thing. When I investigated further, I found that the upper radiator hose was hot, while the lower one coming out of the thermostat housing was cold.
At this point I figured that I had a bad thermostat, and bought a replacement. I tested the old one on my stove top in a pan of water and found that it did actually open at about 175 degrees, so I'm not so sure it was bad now. With the new thermostat installed, the engine is no longer overheating and the temp stays around 235 while driving. However, I am back to the heater blowing cold air at idle and while stopped, and warm air while driving. In addition, the rear heater now only blows cold air, it never warms up.
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I bought a 2003 2500 4x4 suburban a couple of weeks back. The seller had purchased and installed a new module for the quadra steer system before I bought it but hadn't had it programmed yet. Not sure what's involved in programming the module - something best left to a chevy dealer? From what I understand, quadra steer is relatively rare because GM had priced it out of sight, but those who have it love it so I want to get it working (seller told me he can do a U-turn on a two-lane road + a foot or so of shoulder on each side - pretty unreal for something that size).
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I have a 2000 Suburban which is only blowing hot air from the vents. If I turn the temp selector to cold it still blows hot air. Even when I press the button for AC it still only produces hot air.
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Okay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.
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I have a ac compressor that doesn't work all the time. I have read how voltage or low power can effect this. When mine does not start up, if you tap the end of the compressor with a rubber mallet, it engages and runs fine for an extended period. Am I dealing with a power supply issue, or could this just be a bad ac clutch?
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My '99 Suburban 350 with the autotrac 4wd is having electrical problems. The transfer case fuse always blows. I thought it may be the transfer case shift motor, so I took it out and tried and the fuse still blew. I tested the pins on the fuse, and sure enough they are shorted together, but only when the car turns on.
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I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Venture and the blower (Vent, AC, Heater, doesn't matter) is only blowing air out of the left or driver side of the van, nothing on the passenger side vents. There aren't 2 blower motors, are there? Is a door shut that shouldn't be? This van doesn't have dual climate control like my GM cars do. The rear controls work fine for the 2nd row passengers. Again, not tied to any blower speed or heat vs. AC. Same regardless. Nothing on the passenger side.
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So the other day my ac had a hiccup and wouldn't blow any cold air. Ac button was on, LO temp setting, and it just blew warm humid air for about 10 mins. I finally pulled over and tried turning ac button off and on and still no luck. Finally I shut the car off, turned it back on and it instantly blew cold. It's been a few days and it hasn't happened again, but I find myself questioning whether it will work every time. It's 110 here in Phoenix so ac is basically a necessity. I know the dealer won't be able to replicate it so I don't really want to waste my time.
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Where the EGR Valve is located on a 2001 Chevy Venture? Pics of its location would be nice, if possible...
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I have a 2001 chevy cavalier, the base 2.2 model with a 5 speed manual transmission.
I can't shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear. On occasion I can get into 1st but it pops out almost instantly. I have the shift boot up, it looks like the shifter won't go far enough to click into gear for the top 3 gears.
2nd and 4th don't have any issues, reverse works as well though can sometimes be more difficult than usual.
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We have a 2010 honda Odyssey and we are experiencing some air conditioning problems. The ac went out on us about 6 months ago so we had the compressor replaced. A few weeks after that the ac would intermittently start blowing warm air. We took it back to the shop and they noted that the compressor was shutting off for some reason. They replaced the compressor again, but we are still experiencing the same problem. It will just start blowing warm air for about 15-20 minutes then it will start blowing cold again. This will happen about once every 2-3 days. We replaced the relay, but that didn't work. They have checked for leaks, recharged the compressor and checked the freon and still nothing.
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My 2012 f150 AC is blowing out of the defrost for a couple of minutes on start up. The AC will begin to blow out of the dash vents then will switch back to the defrost vents before blowing out of the dash vents for the remainder of the trip.
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