Suburban :: 2001 - Leakage From AC Near Compressor Area
Aug 5, 2014
I have leak coming from compressor area. Detached lines seals appear good , suction hose y block has possible leak is this common??
View 2 RepliesI have leak coming from compressor area. Detached lines seals appear good , suction hose y block has possible leak is this common??
View 2 RepliesI got a 2001 Denali with the 6.0l. It seems to be leaking engine oil to the rear of the oil pan on both sides. It has residue where the oil cooler lines are at, by the drain plug, under the bell housing and around the starter. Also, I noticed there was some antifreeze on the right side axle towards the right front of the motor. I can't see any signs of the water pump or thermostat leaking. Where either of these could be leaking from?
View 1 RepliesAfter last oil change the car started leaking oil from the oil filter area. I went to the dealer a few times and finally they replaced the oil filter (that's what they told me) and it stopped. Fast forward to today....
I changed the oil again and remembering the last time I wiped the oil filter dry and made sure it's not leaking. Today I drove to work and when I got here my oil filter was wet and oily.. so I took a few pics with my phone. Need to identify where this leak is coming from?
I have a ac compressor that doesn't work all the time. I have read how voltage or low power can effect this. When mine does not start up, if you tap the end of the compressor with a rubber mallet, it engages and runs fine for an extended period. Am I dealing with a power supply issue, or could this just be a bad ac clutch?
View 1 RepliesI am planning to buy a 2010 Camry se. everything looks good but there is oil drip in the transmission to rear of engine area.
View 2 Replies2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
View 2 RepliesMy audi runs great. Its has 170K miles on it. My mechanic replaced an air pump last Friday and by Monday I had a new issue. I noticed coolant leaking. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed the airpump to diagnose. He tells me that the leak is coming from the timing belt/water pump area and in order to get there it takes 7 hrs. He suspects that its the water pump or a cylinder block crack. He suspects it could be a water pump breakdown more than a block crack. A block crack could be a serious issue with the engine is what I suspect.
I think he did something wrong when he replaced the air pump. He tells me that these are in two different areas and that he canbe generous with his time in only diagnosis but not in fixing the problem. Do you think he is right ?
He recommends that when they open the timing belt cover its best to replace the belt, tensioners, water pump etc.. Now spending $ to get to know where the leak is sounds steep.
Noticed this during a recent trip halfway cross country. It did POUR for part of the trip, but I didn't notice the wetness until a few days after we were at our destination. Further, none of our luggage etc was wet, so I don't suspect a leak in the rubber gaskets along the window. We did have the A/C running constantly while in 90° heat. I checked underneath the car; saw no obvious signs of rust on the underside. I did see a hose and some type of contraption on the passenger side rear, above the muffler - it was dripping water. Is this part of the A/C system, and could it be the cause of dampness in the carpet?
View 1 RepliesI have a '98 Suburban 4WD, last week I started hearing a clicking noise when I go in reverse. Sounds like it is coming from the rear axle area. I don't hear the sound when going forward.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 Suburban (chevy) 5.3 liter Vortec engine, auto trans 4 wheel drive, fully loaded. As of late I come out in the morning to find a dead battery. this happened before and I disconnected the fuse for the dvd player that was installed aftermarket. some times I have to hit my dashboard to get the dash lights to work, now they dont work at all. sometimes the ride control compressor runs for no apparent reason when the car is off. I replaced the battery 3 years ago and it seemed to solve the problem until now. I replaced the battery with an optima red top yesterday and now the electrical system is going haywire. the ABS light is flashing and the service ride control light is on, the fuel gauge is bouncing back and forth from full to empty. What should I do. I am a fair mechanic but electrical is not my forte.
View 3 RepliesThis is my first Subaru, and I absolutely love the vehicle; however, because of it, I'm very new to its mechanics. I bought it used from a friend, and I've been driving it for three weeks now, now this noise has come up and I want to verify what needs to be fixed before I start taking things apart. Perhaps you all know what noise this is coming from the compressor/ac idler pulley area?Here are a couple of videos.
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In case it does somehow matter, one of my knowledgeable friends asked me if it makes more noise when I turn, and the answer is no. Also, the noise does not come through the speakers, and from what I understand, that eliminates an alternator problem.
I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
View 3 RepliesJust had to replace the steel line that runs from the motor to the firewall with a rubber heater hose due to the steel line rusting through and spraying coolant around. (i left a steel section above the head along the firewall due to heat concerns. I refilled the system through the reservoir but I hear coolant sloshing around in the heater core and the low coolant light is popping up.
The coolant is not low in the reservoir but I really do not feel like the lines were filled when I added coolant to it after the repair.
The temp sensor indicated the car was running normal temp range and the car ran fine when I gave it a 6 mile test drive following the repair. No leaks in the new hoses.
My 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
Wife's 2002 elantra is leaking at the fuel rail pretty badly. Looks like maybe there should have been a hose clamp on it, i can see the indentations on at the rail on the rubber fitting. So i put a hose clamp on it. stopped leaking....just went out a few hours later to check it again, started it up....started leaking same spot.
We are getting a new car in 3-4 months. All i want to do is replace the line from the rail to...the next closest fitting.
Are there any videos? PIctures? Documents how to do this? I've never replaced a fuel line, doesn't seem like it could be hard. Just don't know how those fittings work. I've been known to turn a few wretches here and there.
Every time I start this car there is a strong smell of gasoline. I've already checked for leaks and didn't find any. Could this be caused by the fuel canister in the rear of the vehicle this has gone bad?
View 2 RepliesI have been having problems with the rear heat & ac. It was blowing intermittently then we would have to tap the panel in the back right side to get it to work, it won't blow at all. Is it the blower motor?
View 1 RepliesI have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
Have 2001 suburban with the 5.3. Mechanic has replaced EGR valve 3Xs. Error code specifies "replace EGR valve". Each time car runs fine for 4-6 weeks (500-1000 miles) and then service engine light comes on. Shortly thereafter the car will not idle correctly (under 1,000 rpm) and will die at stop. I think the EGR valves are getting clogged up with carbon. Car has 130,000 miles on it.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Suburban 2500 4WD. When driving over any bumps, the gauges go to 0 (all gauges, speedo, tech, fuel, temp,etc.) and the battery, abs, and airbag lights come on. It is just an intermittent problem. Everything immediately comes back up until the next bump.
Note: nothing else is compromised (headlights, radio, performance, etc. are not affected)
I have taken the cluster out and "bounced" it around in my hand while the truck is running and cannot duplicate the problem. I have check ground wires and battery cables.
What seems to cause this problem of the ABS and brake light coming on at the same time intermittently. I can go an hour or so then pop -- then come on. Its a 2001 with a 5.3 in it.
View 3 Replies