Suburban :: 2001 Denali - Engine Oil And Antifreeze Leakage
Mar 5, 2012
I got a 2001 Denali with the 6.0l. It seems to be leaking engine oil to the rear of the oil pan on both sides. It has residue where the oil cooler lines are at, by the drain plug, under the bell housing and around the starter. Also, I noticed there was some antifreeze on the right side axle towards the right front of the motor. I can't see any signs of the water pump or thermostat leaking. Where either of these could be leaking from?
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I have leak coming from compressor area. Detached lines seals appear good , suction hose y block has possible leak is this common??
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I can't see any leakage underneath. Could it just be the heater core? And if so, is it a pain to fix?
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I've noticed a leak of antifreeze in my 2003 Camry LE 4 cylinder and did some investigating to find its source. I did. What I don't know (because I can't really get to it to remove and replace it) is its part number or even a descriptive name.
I've attached a photo. It's directly to the drivers side of the valve cover/engine block.
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I have a 2000 suburban and it's leaking anti freeze but not going on the ground not sure where the leaking anti freeze is going to. it started out with no heat I, with my dad replace the cabin filters and got front heat back but after awhile I lost heat only in the front I have rear heat. not sure what the problem is? I am afraid to take it to a dealer and get scammed. it's not over heating or getting hot, but in the winter when it first started it i doled hard and it sounded like something was wrong with the lifter?
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Light film of white smoke from the right side of the hood wheel underneath the passenger wheel an slightly from the front no antifreeze in vehicle at the moment car parked an not driven since the altercation.
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Ok I have a 2001 Denali AWD 6.0, and when I accelerate it makes a whining noise as if it were low on power steering fluid, well I just replaced the power steering pump today and the ring and pinion with bearings about 1000 miles ago. Still whining, the shop today said it could be transferred case but I doubt that because I had it inspected when the ring and pinion was replaced.
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My 01 Denali is making a slight knock when I turn right or left, and I can feel it just a bit in the steering. To my knowledge nothing has even been replaced. It has 134,000 miles
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I have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
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I checked the cables, no corrosion and tight as a drum. I connected an OBD II computer to the plug under the dashboard and the computer replied that there were no trouble codes present. Is OBDII the proper code reader? none of these lights were on before I replaced the battery. now I have constant ABS, flashing Service ride control, change engine oil. The battery has not gone dead as of yet but the ampmeter is charging at about 16.5-17 volts. I disconnected the pos terminal while the vehicle was running and it continued to run even with the lights on.
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Just had to replace the steel line that runs from the motor to the firewall with a rubber heater hose due to the steel line rusting through and spraying coolant around. (i left a steel section above the head along the firewall due to heat concerns. I refilled the system through the reservoir but I hear coolant sloshing around in the heater core and the low coolant light is popping up.
The coolant is not low in the reservoir but I really do not feel like the lines were filled when I added coolant to it after the repair.
The temp sensor indicated the car was running normal temp range and the car ran fine when I gave it a 6 mile test drive following the repair. No leaks in the new hoses.
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My 2005 Santa Fe, 2.7 liter, automatic, FWD. with 180K miles had a cracked radiator. The leak is in the front of the radiator about 6 inches right of the filler neck (as you stand looking at the front of the car).
I've found an OEM replacement radiator and looking to replace this weekend.
I can see I need to remove most of the front grill and support, drain the radiator, move some parts out of the way and disconnect to hoses and fan electrical leads. Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there a good write-up on a radiator change that I'm missing?
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Wife's 2002 elantra is leaking at the fuel rail pretty badly. Looks like maybe there should have been a hose clamp on it, i can see the indentations on at the rail on the rubber fitting. So i put a hose clamp on it. stopped leaking....just went out a few hours later to check it again, started it up....started leaking same spot.
We are getting a new car in 3-4 months. All i want to do is replace the line from the rail to...the next closest fitting.
Are there any videos? PIctures? Documents how to do this? I've never replaced a fuel line, doesn't seem like it could be hard. Just don't know how those fittings work. I've been known to turn a few wretches here and there.
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My daughter has a dodge stratus 2001 with about 150,000 miles she has had it for about 2 years. She has had it over heat a couple of times and has had it repaired simply fixing a radiator hose. It overheated again and it was almost empty of antifreeze. She has been filling up and checking the radiator level and fills it as needed, which could be daily or now only weekly. She took it to a mechanic who thought it was a blown valve-cover gasket and basically said the car repair would be more than the car is worth. I have a feeling the car did not get really checked out. She didn't really know this guy and took it there because it was close to her. She is still driving it, but only short distances and always stops before it over heats. She really cannot afford another car for a least another year.
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2002 Santa Fe with 140K. Superbly well maintained.
I notice . Looked all around....then on the radiator toward the top where the metal meets the plastic. I noticed wetness across the entire radiator. Thought it may be coming from the upper hose and spreading across....Replaced the upper hose....Not the problem.
Still has anti freeze seeping across the radiator / plastic area. Does the mean the entire radiator needs replacing? I have searched the forums and seems like no one had replaced a radiator on the Santa.
Is the radiator breaking down. Oh, it's NOT the water pump.
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Our Elantra never overheats or shows hot on the gauge but every couple months it is a little low on coolant. When I shut it down I sometimes get the sweet antifreeze smell. I see no leaks. Never a spot on the driveway. Just need to add a little. Car has about 80,000 miles. as a matter of annual maintenance I drain and fill the coolant and trans fluid once a year. Hoses are in good shape. The oil is clean and shows now sign of contamination. We Love this little car.
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OK, my '01 GTI VR6 has been giving me overheating problems - I've had to replace the crack pipe, and I've been having problems with the plastic fittings (coolant lines around throttle, heater core) all breaking. Turns out the electric fans were bad, I replaced them yesterday. I did check them, neither one was coming on with the AC on, and with 12V jumpered directly to them, still no go, so it wasn't the fan controller.
I was looking forward driving my car without overheating, but that doesn't seem to be in the cards. Looks like the fans weren't the only thing wrong. The sympton I see is that the coolant overflows the coolant overflow tank, but the temp gauge, while it comes up to temp (190 degrees) it doesn't go beyond that - but I'm having coolant boiling out of the overflow tank?!
I really don't want to say out loud - but maybe a bad head gasket? I've heard there's something that's like litmus paper you can use to see if exhaust gasses are blowing into your coolant - where can I get it?
What may be wrong? Almost anything would be better than a bad head gasket! While I've been having these problems, I've not seen the temp gauge ever go beyond the center 190 degrees, what's happened is that while driving the low coolant warning will come on, I pull over, and coolant is bubbling and overflowing the tank.
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Went to start my truck to leave work yesterday and blew the coil on #2. It's happened before and I can fix that. The other weird thing that happened was that the radiator leaked out some antifreeze. Not a lot, but a good 2 foot puddle. The reserve was still full and it leaked from the passenger side at the bottom (below the upper hose). Upper and lower hose show no sign of leakage. I suppose the drain is on the lower end of the passenger side of the radiator and it leaked from there. Would the compression from the engine cause that to happen? Or is it something more, dare I say, like the head gasket blew?
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Every time I start this car there is a strong smell of gasoline. I've already checked for leaks and didn't find any. Could this be caused by the fuel canister in the rear of the vehicle this has gone bad?
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I was sitting in my car on lunch break. I noticed the temp gauge was higher than normal. Then I noticed a little steam coming out from under the hood. When I checked, there was antifreeze leaking out from where the tube connects to the overflow tank. It didn't look like there was a hole in the tube, it was squirting out right where the tube connects to the tank. I turned it off, and had to go back to work. I'm not mechanically inclined. When I got off work, I put a bottle or Bars stop leak in and filled it back up with antifreeze. Started it up, didn't seem to be leaking. Drove it home. Any time I am idling or cruising, the temp gauge will go up to the 3/4 mark , when accelerating it will drop to between 1/4 and 1/2, which is where it normally was.
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We now have a new problem. Motor is leaking antifreeze out of what i will call a weeping hole in the on the #5 cylinder side of the block. The hole, which is manufactured in the block. Is where the antifreeze is seeping from. The hole is located above the bottom bolt an just below the top bolt for the transmission. the hole is on the block. I think that there might be a freeze out plug on the back of the motor block where the leak is coming from. The block was not leaking before we removed the heads for valve job.
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