Suburban :: 2001 4WD - Gauges / Instrument Cluster Short?
Oct 4, 2005
I have a 2001 Suburban 2500 4WD. When driving over any bumps, the gauges go to 0 (all gauges, speedo, tech, fuel, temp,etc.) and the battery, abs, and airbag lights come on. It is just an intermittent problem. Everything immediately comes back up until the next bump.
Note: nothing else is compromised (headlights, radio, performance, etc. are not affected)
I have taken the cluster out and "bounced" it around in my hand while the truck is running and cannot duplicate the problem. I have check ground wires and battery cables.
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My problem is similar to that of coyote54 back in 05. I have a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport. Instrument Cluster is dead, Information lights on top of dash are dead, Turn signals and Hazard lamps are not working. Found Hazard Lamp fuse to be blown. Replaced fuse and blows immediately indicating a short. Haynes describes a Turn Signal/Hazard Lamp and Daytime Running Light Module located on the junction block but there is no such animal that I can find. One of the responses to coyote54 described a Hazard relay located within the steering column........again, I do not see anything on the column that resembles a relay. Is there a hazard flasher/relay on the 2001 GC.
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I have a failing 2003 Chevy Suburban instrument cluster and wonder if I can replace it myself. All I have to do is remove it and re-install it when they send it back. 4 bolts and one plug. No reprogramming. What could be easier? Is it really something I can/should do? -
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I have a 2004 F150 (New Body Style) with 5.4L 3v and about 266k miles. My Alternator finally bit the dust and my instrument cluster went from reading speed, temp level, odometer, RPMs to being blank and all needle gauges bottoming out on the "0" side. Removed Alternator and had it tested, found Alternator Failed tests. Ordered and Installed New aftermarket 110a Alternator. Battery was fully charged (13v) and passed load test out of the truck. After installation, started the truck with no problem, instrument cluster gauges all read normal when turning key to on position, after starting and let run, instruments and gauges blacked out and returned to "0". Battery was reading 13v and with truck running read about 17v. What could be causing this?
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I have a 2000 f350 XLT SD v10 gas. The radio works, the heater works and the power windows work too. It's just the cluster. Lights work in the cluster it's the gauges are dead truck starts fine.
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On the way home the instrument gauges start bouncing around, and then the car dies and won't restart. Battery is at 14v and jump charge with charger won't turn over. Passlock has been bypassed. Checked bypass and still intact.
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I have a Hyundai Elantra 2004 automatic 4 doors. On my instrument cluster i have no speed, no rpm and the odometer is at 0. All the others signal are ok (fuel, engine coolant, lights, etc.) The car works great, so i think the problem is not the sensors.
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On my 2002 Santa Fe I just noticed that the instrument lights on the dashboard are out. Also the ones that show the shift position do not work when you put the parking lights or headlights on except R lights up. I have checked about 10 different fuses, but they are all good. All exterior lights and turn signals work.
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2001 Ford Escape 3.0L XLT V6 : I disconnected, then reconnected the negative battery lead (to reset the 'learning' after changing tranny-oil), BUT it killed my instrument cluster gauges (temp, revs, speedo, fuel and the LCD shift display!). All fuses checked/interchanged, all seem ok. Pulled out instrument cluster, all ok behind. I tried the self-test (pushing the trip button in while ignition key at 1st position), nothing, but it may not exist on this car. I tried the battery negative lead again, still nothing. I am wondering if there is a simple electronic 'reboot' somewhere (or a relay to change). The car drives fine, but no speed/rev/fuel/temp/mileage/shift position info!
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I have a 2001 1.8t Passat that won't start. The story starts about 6 months ago with occasionally (maybe once a week) finding the clock and trip odometer reset. Figured It would eventually get better or worse. Then once last week I lost power to the instruments completely when driving, The tach and speedometer dropped to zero and returned to normal in a second. Yesterday on the way to work that happened again several times, but it never effected the drive-ability at all. After work , went to leave and the dash doesn't light up and is dead silent when turning the key even the clock and odometer are blank ,the Traction control light is the only response on the cluser. It won't crank, the power windows and sunroof also won't work. Most everything else is normal, blower motor, headlights and interior lights, blinkers, door locks, all work, radio powers on.
Here's what I've done so far. Removed the negative battery cable to see if a reset would work. No change. Checked every fuse I could find, no bad fuses. Replaced the Ignition switch, no change. Have 12.05 V on the red starter wire in the crank position. After replacing the ignition switch, the radio now displays SAFE --- 0001 and doesn't do anything else (not sure if that means anything). I have reseated all the relays under the hood, and under the dash. No change. Wiggled every part of the wiring harness I could get access to to see if that changed anything. No change.
I'm now expecting the solution to be the wiring to the CCM, the instrument cluster, or the CCM itself. Going to try push starting it tomorrow, If that fails I'll have it towed home and get back to taking things apart Friday night.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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I have a 2001 F350 and instrument cluster lights will not work. Fuses are good and the gauges still work just not the lights.
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I purchased a 90 Suburban and the fuel gauge reads low. I then changed the fuel pump and sending unit. The fuel gauge still reads low.
Then I noticed that all the gauges read low. Temp is low. Oil press is only a quarter up, the ammeter reads zero.
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So I have been having issues with a cluster in a car I recently bought. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes no gauges or MFA, sometimes just no gauges. All of the dummy lights work, and the odometer has power, although it does not seem to record miles when the cluster is not working.
I checked for power, good. Looked in the Bentley for grounds, there are 3. Terminal 9&24 and a sender ground, terminal 7. 9&24 both show continuity, but I get zilch on the sender ground. Tried looking in the wiring diagrams and google but I cant figure out what a sender ground is or if it should have continuity?
Next step is to try another cluster, but I don't want to go through the trouble of switching it to a new cluster if the ground is bad.
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What could cause my Instrument lights to stay on for a while as well as my gauges to malfunction when the temperature is cool.? It just started doing this.
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So I'm getting ready to do some repairs on my Yaris (almost 200k miles, clutch went out recently, have a kit on order). Driving a manual without a tachometer us dynb, so I've been looking into third party tachs or replacing the stock one with a different cluster that includes one.
Specifically something like this one: [URL]
I don't know if this would be a drop in replacement on the hatchback or not though. 07 hatch replace your panel with an OEM from another model that includes the tach?
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With DRLs enabled and a Euro switch in Auto, I get HIDs, city lights and side markers during the day - no DRL indicator on instrument cluster.. With switch in Off, I get only HIDs, but with DRL indicator lit. In Auto I expected only HIDs as DRL and DRL indicator lit. No city lights or sides.
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Turned my lights on in my 2001 VW Passat and my instrument cluster lights are no longer working. The area showing MPG and Outside temp is functional but nothing else is. The lights for the radio, fan hazard sign etc are all fine.
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The speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, battery meter, temp gauge and idiot lights went out. The car works fine. Dash is just dead. I did a quick look at the fuses in the glove box but it doesn't have the little card to tell fuse locations. So, I can't narrow it down but I don't see any blown fuses.
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Just wondering how to remove instrument cluster?
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This has been a wonderful car to say the least. Has about 150K on it and it drives like a champ. Recently the instrument cluster went out, sometimes it will randomly work but 9/10 times it's off. When I used it to jump start another car the instrument cluster began working almost instantly, although this was only temporary. When the temperatures are low as they are on the northern east-coast right now around 30ยบ and lower (shivers) it will work. Why is this? does anything to do with the battery having to work harder?
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