Suburban :: 2000 - Running Into Vibration At Highway Speeds Along With A Clicking Sound At Idle Speed
Aug 9, 2012
I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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I have noticed a louder noise and increase in vibration during driving at speeds of 70mpg + ... What is the cause??
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Getting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
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I did a search and see that this random clicking sound has been discussed but a source never identified. Thought I'd ask again 'cause mine is doing it more often and it's driving me nuts now that I hear it. Mostly at highway speeds, not tied to any particular function or steering wheel turning. It's like a solenoid flipping on and off. I know I could never get the dealer to replicate it and I assume if many Tregs have it, it's just a normal function but thought I'd ask.
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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I recently got a used 2000 silverado 1500 ext. cab with a short bed. Has a 5.3L engine. I noticed it has vibrations at highway speeds. I thought it was the crappy tires on it so I had all the tires replaced and balanced. Now it has all new tires and does the same thing. Runs really smooth all the way up to 40mph and then the vibrations begins. It is mostly felt in the steering/dash and pedals. A little more pronounced on accel. but vibrates if your on the gas on not.
Once your reach 65mph, the vibrations stop. I have also noticed that asphalt makes it vibrates more. When I go over concrete overpasses in the problem area of 40 to 65mph it smooths out. I took a look under the truck and saw nothing obvious. U joints feel tight and no play, seen it had weights which appeared welded onto the one piece drive shaft.
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I have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
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Our V6 just turned 40k and it's developed some interesting sounds. First of all, from time to time at highway speed a whirring/whinning sound has developed. I was driving down the road the other night, no rain, about 60 degrees temp outside, and between 50 and 80 mph this noise seemed constant. I turned off the radio, turned off the climate control and the problem still existed.
It *sounds* like a drive train noise (my old jeep would make a sound when it was in a low gear that is similar). Second, also intermittent, a clicking relay from inside the dash on the drivers side. The frequency and rate are inconsistent and I can't correlate it to anything happening while driving.. just highway driving.
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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Ok so this is something I can't quite wrap my head around. I have a 1999 K1500 Suburban, 5.7L. I have only owned it a few months. The thing is, shortly after I got the truck, we took it out of town, where it died after a little over an hour of driving at highway speeds. I had punched the odometer to watch the gas mileage, and we had run it about 70 miles when it died. We got it to our friend's house, where we were headed anyway, and stayed over, planning to look at it in the morning because it was later than part stores stay open in our rural area. Thing is, in the morning it fired right up. So we headed home, and once again, after about another 70 miles, it shut down and refused to crank.
This time it happened as we were coming back into town, and on a hunch I said that something must be overheating for the problem not to be present until after an hour of road time. So we pushed it a safe distance off the road, and went and grabbed something to eat. After about an hour we made it back to the truck and success! It cranked back up and we made it the rest of the way home. Since I have driven it to town and back, and to my parents a few times, but never more than thirty or forty miles away. It never hesitates to crank, and sounds ok running. Although I will say, I have not owned a truck before or a V8, but it seems to not have the power it should (my thunderbird with a 3.8L had more punch), and I did noticed both times this happened that that problem seemed more pronounced right before it died. But I don't know if I just feel that way just because I am used to driving cars, and the truck is heavier. When it dies, you hear the starter relay click, and that's it.
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Have replaced BOTH half axles. Clicking sound present when driving - does NOT change when turning right or left. Seems slightly affected by acceleration/deceleration - makes clicking slightly louder/quieter. Clicking is DIRECTLY proportional to speed - slows down until car stops. Transmission works fine, fluid level is correct. New trans fluid and filter. What the heck could this be? Wheel bearings seem solid - jack up car and try to wiggle wheel - solid as a rock both right and left sides. WHAT ELSE COULD THIS BE???
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I just had four new LT E rated tires installed (balanced). Alignment is good and did not require adjustment. Tires are correct size for the vehicle. I noticed during an extended highway trip yesterday that the truck (94 K1500 Suburban) seemed to shake or rather bump slightly when I was accelerating to pass in the sixty-five to seventy-five mph range. Almost seemed like driving on a fine washboard. I looked at the balancing weights which on three of the wheels appear to be nearly the same size. Then I noticed the right front weight is obviously larger than the other three. Could this be the problem?
There's a bit of a story here. (Isn't there always?) I bought the tires from one source (whom I would never trust to do any repairs) and had a shop I deal with regularly close to home install them. The morning after the install I went to check the pressure cold and discovered that the right front tire was a standard tire while the others were the LTs which the bill showed I had paid for. So I missed this when I bought them (they threw them in the back of the truck after assuring me all four were the same) and my mechanic missed it when they were installed. Now the tires do look almost identical but the lettering on the standard tire was black both sides while the LTs were white on one side. Of course the standard tire has a lower maximum psi rating.
I went to the mechanic first and he admitted to noticing this but I guess it just didn't register with him to double check to see if it was actually a different tire before mounting it?! I should say I am having second thoughts about using this shop in future, especially after they under inflated the tires at 30psi as well. When I told him I was running 45psi he looked at me like I was from Mars but then, upon checking his Mitchell Manual he says that yes, this truck should have 45 to 65 psi. Anyway, the guys who sold me the wrong tire made good on the problem however they installed and balanced it and I'm wondering if they got this part wrong hence the vibration I'm getting at around seventy-five.
The work order from the guys who installed the tires also states I need two upper ball joints, pitman's arm and left outer tie rod and alignment (which I understand is standard when doing this job). Now I had them show me this and while I'm no mechanic I could see the play in the ball joints was extremely minimal and pitman arm almost negligible (the mechanic had a lot of trouble showing me this had any play at all and admitted he had seen much worse). The boot on the left outer CV joint is also split and missing its grease. I'm not saying the suspension is perfect but I think they are on a fishing expedition here and I am skeptical this is what is causing the vibration at high speed because I never noticed it until the new skins were applied.
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For a while I had been having vibration at between 60-80mph I think I mentioned it in a thread before too. Well anyway when I got my 30,000 mi check up they told me it was probably due to the tires being unbalanced and that my tires were in such bad shape that balancing them woudln't make a difference. So I got to new tires (and my rims as you all remember) from NTB. I took it back to Toyota to get the alignment done after that I got on the highway to see if it was vibrating still and it was so they told me to bring back in.
So today they told me one of the tires that I got at NTB was bad because they couldn't get it balance within the range of the other 3 tires so I took the car back to NTB got into it with the guy there and they eventually saw things my way and put a new tire on the car. So after that I get back on the high way the car starts vibrating right when it hits 60. So I take back to Toyota, the guy tells, I heard him mention to one of the mechanics that it might be a bad axle.
Around 6:30 or so they call me and tell me they are going to take rims and tires off a brand new Camry and put them on my car and the manager who lives far away is going to drive my car home and then back again in the morning to get a better idea of the problem with the car. And to top that off they wanted to charge me 40 bucks for a rental car, but luckily I can drive my dad's Cam to work.
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On my 09' passat wagon 2.0t: I've been on a couple of long highway runs and noticed that my steering wheel is vibrating slightly at higher speeds. Naturally I went for a wheel balance. They showed me one rim was slightly bent from a pot hole or something, but they were able to balance it and put it in the rear. Still a vibration. Took it back to the tire shop and they checked the balance again.
At this point I was still noticing the vibration and went so far as to swap the "damaged" wheel with another off of a passat with the same wheels. No difference noticed. Is it my imagination or is the steering so light in these passats that im feeling every imperfection of the road? I don't remember the car always feeling like this. I am at 14k miles and have the crappy stock good year tires.
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for the last several weeks, I've noticed a problem that seems to be getting progressively worse... there is a vibration seemingly from the front end (possibly passenger side), and it only appears on the interstate at typical highway speeds (70-75 MPH). facts:
1. It does not happen below ~70 mph.
2. It doesn't appear to be a wheel bearing - no noticeable change in tone or "amplitude" while turning at speed.
3. I use cruise control all the time on the highway, and it is more noticeable going downhill (increases in vibration), when the engine is obviously off-throttle.
4. The car is a 99 V6 5mt.
5. The axles that are presently on the car are Raxles, and have been on it for ~4 1/2 to 5 years.
6. I recently changed over (this past weekend) to my winter/stock wheels and tires, but it was doing it with the summer wheels and tires.
7. It happens regardless if the gears are engaged or not (5th or neutral - I coasted down a hill on the interstate today in neutral to add more info).
8. I've replaced the wheel bearing on the passenger side about 6 weeks ago.
I'm thinking I have an inner CV Joint that is starting to fail. The boots are intact, as I inspected them recently while replacing the clutch/pressure plate/throwout bearing/flywheel. The transmission axle flanges had no play. The vibration was occuring prior to when I changed out the clutch.
Thoughts? Inner CV joint, or...???
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Driving on the highway the other day and I was doing about 80 and I noticed that the front end started to vibrate pretty loud so I slowed down to around 70 and it stopped. I got home and called up the local tire shop had all my wheels re balanced as I heard that could be the cause they were near perfect. Tires have about 3,000 miles on them. so yesterday I took it out to see if it would do it again and I noticed when it starts to vibrate at about 80 and I push in the clutch it stops immediately. Could my clutch be going out? or possibly like the throw out bearing.
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I'm having an issue with my wife's 2008 Camry. We're feeling vibration at highway speeds. Feels like it's coming from the front passenger side. We've had all 4 tires replaced (two of them replaced twice because we got lucky and the shop gave us a set of 4 for free with all the trouble we were having with the goodyear tires they sold us), and added hub-centric rings to her wheels. There are no noises to tell me whether it's a cv axle or a bearing. I've been under the car and the only thing I can find that comes close to loose is that the passenger side axle has a just a little more side to side play (runout - inner cv) than the driver's side.
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My 04 Solara 3.3L vibrates like crazy at highway speeds, but the vibration goes away after a couple of miles, only to return again later, and it isn't a tire balance issue. The vibration comes on quickly, and I have to hold the wheel with both hands, then it slowly diminishes and runs smooth again.
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I have been feeling a vibration in my right rear at highway speeds (70+mph) At first i thought that maybe it was a wheel bearing but that would constantly be vibration and it wouldn't be off and on like it is. The car is on coils and a friend mentioned to check and make sure my right height is the same all around. I checked just by comparing the fender well gaps and it does seem as if the right rear is a bit lower. If this is the case, can ur car being a little lower on one side cause this vibration? if so, how?
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So about 5 months ago I started feeling vibrations in my seat and steering wheel. I got my tires road force balanced and it solved the issue. I just got back from a weeks long vacation in Maine. Before I left I had the tires road force balanced again to ensure a smooth ride up. I left some shaking in my seat so I wanted to get it ironed out.
While driving up my seat and the entire cabin shook when I exceeded 70 MPH, it got worse and worse the faster I went. The steering wheel didn't shake at all. I figured the tech balancing the tires did a bad job so I visited the BJ's in Portland. They re-balanced all my tires, I was present when the job was being done and noticed they were all out of balance.
The BJ's tech said it look like the shop that did the balancing over balanced each wheel (too much weight on each wheel). As soon as I hit the highway the same thing happened, shaking above 70MPH. At this point I determined it was probably a bent wheel. I visited a local wheel repair shop, they checked out both my rear wheels, since the steering wheel wasn't shaking I didn't bother checking the front ones.
It turns out both rear wheels are ever so slightly bent, they attempted the straighten out the more bent one. They tech repairing the wheel said he was surprised I even felt anything at all. So I had my hopes up that the problem would be fixed but as soon as I hit the road the same shaking returned. At this point, what's wrong with my car. I'm thinking of buying 4 new wheels, the car came from the factory with low profile 18 inch wheels which have been a curse.
A few more details about my car:
Toyo Proxes 4 Plus - Ultra high performance tires (Maybe contribute to harsh ride?) 20K miles on them
Installed thicker 20mm rear sway bar 6 months ago (But I never had shaking until now)
Installed front tower strut bar 6 months ago.
Total mileage 32K
I have hit lots of pot holes the past 2 winters lost 2 OEM tires and bent 1 wheel last year which was repaired.
Also I can't drive through it, the shaking doesn't stop with more speed it only gets worse. And the back end has started to feel squirrely over bumps.
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