Suburban :: 2000 - Vibration Noticeable At About 20 MPH / Audible Clicking Sound At Slow Speeds
Mar 16, 2013
I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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I've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
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I have noticed a louder noise and increase in vibration during driving at speeds of 70mpg + ... What is the cause??
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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Just had a hub get stripped a few weeks back and had to replace the whole hub assembly. Now just a few weeks later, I started developing this strange rubbing, almost scraping sound when backing of the garage in reverse and the diving speeds of like 5-10 mph. It has to be wheel related becuase the sound goes in and out as the wheel goes around.
Put the car up on jack stands , checked fender plastic underneath the wheel wells, dchecked the dust sheild on the rotors, checked the tires out, even spun the rotor around with my hand and I couldn't replicate the sound?
Just Started about 5 days ago and was only noticeable at slow speeds every other day, then today it seemed worse and I can almost hear it when driving 25-35 mph and I'm also starting to feel it in the steering and body of the car as a vibration.
I just want to get this car back running smooth... Just put new suspension on as well, new strut bearings, but I had to reuse the strut mounts because the dealership was out of mounts. Don't think the suspension has anything to do with it, but you never know. How to upload a video... I can see if I can somehow record the sound.
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This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
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I bought 2012 Prius ii around 6 weeks ago. From day one I started noticing vibrations in the steering wheel most noticeable at highway speeds. I can describe this as high frequency vibrations that become very very annoying especially if you drive to work for an hour every day. This car has OEM Bridgestone Ecopia EP 20 tires. I took the car to the dealership twice already, they balanced the tires twice and road force tested it twice. They replaced front tires for me because based on the test results one tire was at 16 lb the other one at 19 lbs.
The new tires are at 8 and 10. They keep on telling me that this is by design and is a characteristic of the vehicle. However the Prius I test drove when I was buying it did not have this problem, otherwise I would never buy it. This vibration happens in any mode and I can even feel it at lower speed now though it is not as noticeable. I had a few people including Prius owners drive my car and everyone feels the vibration. With so many Prius models sold I highly doubt that everyone just accepts it as a feature.
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I have a clicking sound that seems to be coming from under the middle to rear of the car. Its audible with the windows down at anything over 15 mph. It sounds like some ball bearings are clicking around randomly and it's driving me crazy. I have continued to drive and nothing has hard failed yet after 2000 miles. My thought it was a front inner cv that went (grease all over) so I replaced that today, but no affect on the noise.
Other than wheel bearings, the only stuff back there is the haldex and shaft which could be big money. I know the shop I used had to remove the drive shaft to put in the exhaust- anything I can/should check on that?
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I recently bought a 2012 Golf 2.5L, and I absolutely love it. There is, however, a very annoying clicking sound that's audible in the cabin. I think it's coming from the overhead console area, where the lights, bluetooth, voice command, etc. are located.
Basically, it sounds like two plastic parts rubbing against each other. At first, I thought it might have been the latch on the sunglasses compartment. Then, I thought it might have something to do with the plastic reacting to changes in temperature. Ultimately, though, I can't figure it out. I've heard this sound when the cabin is both cold and warm, on bumpy roads and smooth roads, etc.
I don't know if I'm being excessively anal, but I find it really distracting. Is this something I should bring up with the dealer, or is there a quick fix/common sense solution? I feel a bit silly complaining over something like this, but it's beginning to drive me bonkers. Other than that, the car drives great.
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I recently got rid of my 13' Si and joined the Prius C family a few days ago. It was a big change change going from a high revving engine to a hybrid.
Over the last few days I've been figuring out all the different noises the engine makes. At this point I've figured out what all them are and that they're pretty much all normal sounds from a hybrid. There is one noise in particular that I have not been able to figure out if its normal or not.
Whenever the radiator fan turns on there is an audible ongoing clicking sound. It almost sounds like the fan is hitting something yet when the motor stops running and the fan is winding down the noise isn't present. You can't hear the clicking from the inside the cabin or even outside the car, the noise is only audible when to hood is popped.
I'm aware that I can drive to dealer and test one of their Cs but the drive is quite far. 2014 Prius C...
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I have 124,000 miles on my 2002 subaru impreza outback sport and this car runs very well and has been maintained well however the last couple weeks I have noticed a slight rattling sound toward the right front side of the car almost as if there were pebbles inside the wheel covers when the car is driven at low speed and I begin to accelerate. It also sounds as if the rattling could also be coming from the exhaust also as if it were loose fitting but the tailpipe is on the left looking from the rear of the car. Another possibility I thought of was the fender was loose or the tire was rubbing against the wheel well or something. It is one of those small annoying sounds that does not seem to warrant bringing in to a mechanic yet but I am curious about what that is.
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So I had the cv joints and boots replaced last year. When I turn at low speeds I get a clicking and some road noise, when I turn at higher speeds I get a lot of road noise. I feel like its a combination of strut mounts and wheel bearings?
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I have a 2010 LS460 AWD with 42k miles and notice when I am making a medium to wide angle turn at parking lot speeds the front wheels make an intermittent metallic clicking/ticking noise that can be clearly heard when the windows are down and stereo is off. The noise can be heard when turning in either direction, driving forward or in reverse, and both accelerating and slowing down. Doesn't seem to happen when I'm turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary. Dealer suspects noise is due to dry contact areas between pads, calipers, and anti rattle springs and wants to perform a brake service for $330 before they're willing to investigate further (car still under warranty till end of the year). If noise is brake-related shouldn't it only occur when I'm applying the brakes? What should I do?
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At 100k I took my 2004 CR-V in for belated 90k maintenance. Besides the routine stuff, they had to replace the ball joints. They also rotated and balanced the tires, which are about 15k miles old.
Took the car home, and immediately noticed a loud clicking in the right wheel when I turned it hard at slow speeds, parallel parking, etc. Took it back to the shop and was informed that it was a spindle problem. Mechanics said this was merely a coincidence, not a result of their recent work, but nicely charged me only for parts not labor. They had to replace the ABS sensor in the course of this work.
Next day, had to take a long weekend trip, about 500 miles there and back. Half-way through, noticed two things: groaning/clicking noise in brakes at slow speeds, and a slight but detectable vibration through the gas pedal when traveling 30-50MPH. Also a faint "wobble" sound at this speed as though coming from front right tire.
Took it back to the shop: was told that brake rotors were rusted and this was responsible for groaning/clicking--something to do with warping due to the rust + car getting warm from long drive. They lubed up the rotors real good and there is no more sound, though I've not driven it a long distance yet.
BUT, faint vibration in gas pedal and wobble noise at 30-50 persists. Mechanic said that when they rotated the tires, they noted that they had gone "out of round," but thought balancing might bring them back in round. Is it possible that the sound & vibration are just from the tires trying to find their level? Is this the kind of thing where I'm all of a sudden looking at 4 new tires (seems premature)? Any other front-end possibilities? Should I take it to a tire shop? I have found my mechanics pretty good over the past couple of years, but this recent series of visits has made me slightly leery...
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A while back I posted a thread trying to fix a clicking noise coming from the front end on my F-350 dually when applying the brakes at slow speeds (under 15 mph).
While returning from our camping trip last week the noise is back again. It does not occur after the truck sits overnight or for a few hours. But after driving for 30 minutes or longer the clicking will return when I apply the brakes at slow speeds. I tested the rotor temps with a heat gun and it seems to start when the rotor temps get above 120 degrees F. So I removed the brake pads & calipers, regreased the slide pins, cleaned up the pads and applied some lubricant on the back of the pads. I also bent the pad clips so they would fit snugger/tighter in the slots.
Whatever I did seemed to cure the clicking while driving around this weekend. I made sure I got the front brakes nice and warm - up to 180 degrees or so.
When I did this same procedure a few months ago the clicking went away - but eventually returned.
Should I get some better clips? Replace the sliding pins? Pads? The rotors & pads were replaced this winter & the shop said they and the labor are still under warranty. But if they use the same clips - I'm concerned I'll be back to square one in a month or so.
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I just started getting this thumping sound, at very slow speeds from the bottom front end. What this could be. It sounds like it might be coming from the suspension or steering.
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Metal on metal rubbing sound when starting off from a stop at slow speeds? It seems like it is brake related because putting on the brakes stops the noise. The noise also seems to go away when you get a little more speed, and maybe when the it shifts from 1st to 2nd ? This also is intermittent.
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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I drive a 2002 4-dr 1.6 L Accent and there is a strange, high-pitched squeaking that comes about from somewhere under the car at very slow speeds (30 mph or below). If I hit the brakes, the noise continues sometimes as the car slows. (The noise isn't the brakes, though, I know that), but if I hit the gas pedal slowly, the noise stops. Whatever is vibrating underneath doesn't seem to be causing a problem at high speeds. Or I just can't hear it.
Secondly, I am going to try to do some tune-ups for the summer for lack of better things to do, mostly, I can pretty much do anything (intake/exhaust, engine, electrical) as long as I can find detailed instructions.
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I'm experiencing a weird problem with my Passat (2000 TDi 110), where the brake pedal is buzzing at my feet when braking from slow speeds. If I am doing around 5-10mph and lightly apply the brakes, it sometimes buzzes in the peddle and I can't apply full pressure (this can be tricky when behind another car!), but if I take my foot off the pedal or wait around 3 seconds, the buzz and pressure restriction goes and then I end up braking quite sharp as the pressure releases. The buzz is quite audiable and can be heard by others in the car and sounds quite electronic. Pads and Discs are fine, they will need replacing soon, but this issue has been going on for a while, so I don't think it's related to them.
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Ever since my last oil change, I've been having this low whirring or moaning sound at slow speeds (below 30mph). Switching the dial from 2WD to AWD, the moaning noise increases as if it engaging AWD; then it decreases. When switching back to 2WD, the sound doesn't go away. Other times, I don't hear this moaning sound and I hear/feel a very slight clunk.
It's like my truck is always in AWD and won't disengage. When I took the truck to the dealer, the service manager was with me and heard this noise, but when the 4x4 tech drove it, of course it acted perfect. Apparently, they had engaged/disengaged the AWD/2WD so many times that the 2WD/4WD appeared to work. The guy said, oh what you're hearing is normal, lets get back to the shop. My mileage is also dropping - another indicator being in AWD.
The dash panel always shows the electronic shift as successful. I know it engages while I'm driving because I sometimes hear/feel a slight clunk and then the roaring as if I'm in 4WD.
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