Suburban :: 1999 K1500 Won't Start After Rain - Engine Fire Off But Not Stay Running
Jun 27, 2006
'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
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I have a 1995 suburban k1500 4x4 i just pulled a check engine code 35 what could be causing it to appear? I need to know if its something small or a big fix?
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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I had to choose the Yukon, as there is no Suburban?
Anyway, I have a very bad misfire in my truck. Lopes at idle stumbles under load. Through substitution, I have tested: module, coil, and crank sensor. I have replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and upgraded from SCFI to MFI (can you say "expensive best guess"?).
Still getting P-0300, P-0302 and mostly P-0304, using a Snap-on Modis scanner.
Compression tested today: all cylinders between 160- & 170 psi. After this, leak-down seemed redundant.
Back pressure test: 0.5 psi at 2500 RPM, both banks.
Steady fuel at about 60 psi.
I am going to pull distributor (175K miles) and examine drive gear. Not too sloppy at rotor bearing. However, how do I set baseline timing when I re-install distributor? If the distributor is OK, what test or part should I look at next?
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I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
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What's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
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99 F250LD 4x4 w/5.4 and 215k . I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Just had quite a bit of rain in my area. I didn't drive the truck in it but 3 days after the rain stopped I did. Skipping badly ! It has done it before and will clear itself up after a heat cycle or two. This time it kicked a p0307 code. # 7 cylinder not fire correctly I believe. I got ready to replace the cop but decided to wait a day. In the mean time I pulled the connector and blue compressed air through it and the male connector.
The next morning I decided to drive it before replacing the coil. Absolutely no skipping at all. Drove at different speeds , up heels slow , high speeds, no skipping. Ran the truck for about 20 minutes or so. Is the connector getting moisture in it ? Can I fill the connector with dielectric grease? Is there another problem. I cleared the codes and am going to drive a couple of cycles to see if any come back. Like I said it has done this before but not bad enough to throw a code so I'm not sure if it's always number 7.
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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So here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
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Well I just set the timing on my rebuilt chevy 5.7 1999 suburban. It still runs sluggish when I accelerate and idles nice when it'd parked. I rebuilt the whole part part of engine. This is what I did notice when I cleaned under the lower intake manifold where the fuel injectors plug in. Here is a attached picture.
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I have a 95 VW Corrado VR6. The indications are that the vehicle will turn over and increase RPM when ignition is turned over. When RPM goes down to idle it continues to zero and dies. If I press the accelerator while starting the car the same thing happens. This originally happened back in October and I did not get it fix or looked at until early April. The shop I took it to replaced the battery and it started right up. I then drove it off and on for about 3 weeks (low speed/no freeway and no more than 1 hour in duration) and then it started doing the exact same thing. That day I had driven home from work which is only about 3 miles. Several hours later I needed to move the car and it started and I moved it 40 feet or so. I then decided I didn't like my parking job and tried to start the car again and it would not start. I am thinking a faulty alternator but not sure if it would fail like this.
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Its a 1996 vw gti 2.0 it wont stay running. Changed the spark plugs, air filter, distributor cap. itll crank but wont start. if i give it gas it will start. but you have to stay on the gas to keep it running. when you let off the gas, it dies right away. Could it be the mass air flow sensor?
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I have a 1995 Chevy 2500 with a 454 engine with 72K miles. The engine won't stay running (won't idle). There is fuel spraying into the throttle body. Not sure about the pattern being correct. If I spray starting fluid into the throttle body the engine starts running fine for a short time(until the fluid is consumed). So, I'm assuming it is a fuel delivery problem. The fuel filter is O.K. Don't know about the fuel pressure.
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My 05 f-150 Supercrew 5.4l, will start for a second and then die. I can sometimes feather it and rev it up, but it dies as soon as you let off. I changed the fuel filter and while we had the lines off we turned the key on and it pumped fuel but only for a few seconds. Shouldn't the pump run constantly with an open line?
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My 2010 Toyota Corolla caught fire IN THE RAIN yesterday ( Jan 9, 2014) while I was driving ..... I was lucky to get out of the car before the fire came in the passenger compartment.... Trying to find out a way to see if this has happened to other Toyotas....
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I had a Viper 5701 installed and it only stays on for 20 seconds then shuts down as if I was pressing the brake pedal. What is the work around? The hand held computer says the alarm is set for 12 minutes.
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I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
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The car will be at the dealer to trouble shoot why the windshield wipers stay on when the engine is running. Will not shut off! Obvious parts replaced to no avail.
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I don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
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The engine cranks and turns over when I turn the key, but won't stay running unless I give it some gas. My mechanic doesn't know what's wrong with it, but I haven't starting having him replace parts. What's going wrong. Could it be the fuel filter? fuel pump?
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