Suburban :: 1999 Vehicle Will Not Start With Security Light On Constantly
Feb 17, 2014
I have a 99 Suburban k1500 that will start and stall out after a few seconds. The security light is on constantly and will not reset after trying all the procedures listed. I have even tried the resistor bypass trick using 3200 ohms as required in procedure. Light would go on and off intermittently for several months on regular pattern and would restart and run fine after setting for a few hours or overnight. Now it has been weeks after a tow home and nothing seems to reset it or work in bypassing it.
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Security light constantly flashing whether running or not. Key fob doesn't work but battery is good (master key), car will start and drive fine though. The power locks don't work, top will not go down, gas door won't open with the button in the cabin (manual release from trunk is ok), trunk won't open unless I use manual release, the electric steering wheel works but not automatically and won't retract to the stored position, auto up/down on windows won't work, pass window control on driver door doesn't work but works on pass door, seat settings won't store, dome light doesn't come on when doors open and doesn't register them as open but puddle lights come on, fuses ok, power mirrors don't work, power seats and everything works individually. I think that covers everything.
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I removed the cluster in my friends 2003 Suburban last week to send it in for repairs as the gear selector and backlights as they were not working. I used this company several times before and they do excellent work. When the cluster arrived back a few days later I installed it and the truck would not start. I made sure the battery wasn't ran down and that everything was connected and still nothing. I called the GM dealer and the service tech told me that the truck should run without the cluster plugged in. Tried it and still no luck.
I proceeded to do the passkey security relearn procedure even though the security light was not lit and nothing. I got on here yesterday and read a post of about possibly a bad connection in the steering column so I lifted the column up and down several times while trying to start the truck and got nothing. All of the lights come on and I hear the fuel pump prime but it does not attempt to start. I drove the truck in the garage the day I removed the cluster and it ran great.
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Parked my truck and headlights wont shut off on there own like normally do after few seconds. That is the only issue with my vsm. Or maybe I have a gem? should i replace it now or wait. Also where to buy one if I need one?
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I have a 2006 GMC Canyon i5 4x4 with 86000 mi. The problem started about 3 years after purchase. I would try to start the truck the starter engages but doesn't start, let off the key and the security light on the dash starts flashing. The manual instructs you to leave the key in the run position for ten minutes turn to off and retry to start. This usually works, on a couple occasions, I've had to do this twice. I've had the vehicle to the dealership with no results, it doesn't leave a code on the computer and hasn't happened while they had it. They tell me everything checks out fine but the problem still persists. I hate having a vehicle I can't depend on.
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My '99 Suburban 350 with the autotrac 4wd is having electrical problems. The transfer case fuse always blows. I thought it may be the transfer case shift motor, so I took it out and tried and the fuse still blew. I tested the pins on the fuse, and sure enough they are shorted together, but only when the car turns on.
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My wife stopped at a local store(car running tip top as usual)turned off the car. As she came out of the store after about 20 mins. NO START! Security light is flashing all interior lights,radio etc work but NO headlights and if you turn signal it blinks real fast like a bulb out condition! The fuel pump does its prime up etc. NO CRANK,after say 15 seconds security light goes out,still NO CRANK!I did 10 minute reprogram(key in accy for 10-20 min) -no change!I also tried the valet key!NO GO!!!
I know GM had a few security problems but I have been out of the mechanic loop since losing the use of my legs!
2001 Buick Lesabre
6cyl automatic
155,000 miles
passkey 3 with transponder on outer ignition ring
battery is new and loads out fine
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I have a 93 firebird. it has a new engine ,starter and battery. fuse under hood is good. turn switch lights work as usual .
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My buick has a weird problem, basically it wont start the security light comes on, nothing and i mean absolutely nothing works inside of the car and the power window circuit breaker under the back seat is burning hot, obviously its an electrical problem but I am thinking its the body control module but I want to be sure .... what it could be?
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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I first thought my issue might be the ignition switch or maybe the neutral safety switch but through some info I've come to realize that my issue appears to be from the anti theft system. I did a test where I turned key to start and backed off to run and then leave car for 10 minutes. I did this 3 times and it was supposed to go around the security system and then try to start but it didn't. I went through two trials with the same result. On the first of 3 times in each of the two trials the security light was not on but the 2nd and 3rd times it stayed on. I've heard this problem can be nearly impossible to trace and repair.
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For the past few months security light of my 2003 Alero keeps on activating preventing the engine to start or it doesn't even crank.
I always do the reset technique..."Turn ON the engine key for about 20 minutes and wait till the flashing security light become solid before starting the engine." Today when I started the car the security light comes ON and stays on for my whole 50 Kilometers travel. When I reached my destination,I tried to turn ON and OFF the engine waiting for my luck to have the solid security light to come OFF,but no luck.
Will this problem have any effect on the performance of the car? Will the car stall while I'm on the road?
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I've read tons of posts about the security system and passlock on the ignition...but my truck does not have a chip key, as the dealer even looked into the key issue with me. There is no chip or resistor on this thing at all.
So, with that said, I have the identical problem as the passlock system people do. The truck will start, then stop, and the security light flashes at me. That's the last thing I want flashing me at 6am when I'm trying to leave for work.
It only happens about once every 2-3 months, but I want to eliminate the problem as I have a feeling one day it's not going to start on me and then the real problems will start...
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Every once-in-a-while I've noticed a "security" light is illuminated on my dash-board. When this happens, I can't start my 92' Buick LeSabre for about 5-minutes or so. Aggravating, to say the least. Is there something I can do? Including "disabling" it?
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I have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am coupe. Over 195,000 miles. Not worried about someone stealing it This past month we have the SECURITY light come on and blink.It's do that 3 times. Two times I remained in the car, with the windows down, while my wife was in a store, with her keys. I have my own, but just sat there reading, no A/C or radio on, According to the manual, it is an anti-theft "feature". When it does the computer shuts off the fuel and the car won't start. It turns over. We have to wait until the light goes off, then it starts. Dealership says they can't disable this "feature". They said it could be ignition switch or computer $$$. What can I do?
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ok so i have this park ave. that i had a new key cut. started and ran fine. then it shut down. nothing showed in error codes. now i insert key in ignition and security light on dash blinks. turn ignition to on(run) security light goes out. tried the 30min relearn for key with no results.
where is the BCM located? is there a decent diagram of where? last diagram i used said the ECM was located by evap. can. damn thing is located in the air filter assembly!
the fuel system is charging. but not staying charged. no cranking of the starter.
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We have a 2007 Ranger. When the temps hit 32 degrees F or below, the truck won't start. The security system light comes on. We have to run through the security system reset process, sometimes a few times, before it will start. Afraid all this key turning is going to burn out the ignition. Don't have a lot of confidence in my Ford dealer as they replaced the brakes and put the shims in wrong. Local mechanic says it's probably electrical. Is there anyway to bypass the security system or can it be removed?
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2000 Maxima - I just changed the head gaskets, got it back together and no start, no spark, solid security light and linking error to ecu. 50 miles to a nissan dealer. I have 12v to the injectors but no ground, I just checked spark last night and have none. I tried all three keys, will no battery for a month or two cause key security issues? I hate to drag it to Nissan and have them tell me I need a new ecu for a few thousand dollars. Does a security issue cause a linking issue?
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Ok, got a 99 Buick Century that is a cantankerous old hag. It doesn't like to start sometimes. naturally when i really need to get somewhere. The security light blinks at me for a while, goes solid, then i cycle the ignition and hope it will start. It happens with multiple keys and remote start(which has been removed multiple times because each mechanic thinks that will magically fix it). No rhyme or reason, it sends no code, the local buick dealership couldn't figure it out. I think its my security computer. what is the easiest/cheapest diy solution besides get full coverage and leave it in the ghetto with the keys and hope it ends up on cops? battery is fine, it starts normally most of the month, just maybe a handful of times a month it won't. Starter I believe is still good as well, and gets voltage when it starts. Fuel pump audibly works all the time.
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My engine revs up no matter if the thing is hot or cold when I come to a stop at a red light, SOMETIMES. Other times it will idle at 100 and then wants to idle around 1000 and has idled as high as 1200. I've been told EGR, TPS, Idle Control Motor, or Intake gaskets. I did have a code 22 which occurred after a friend unplugged the TPS and reconnected it, but no other codes or check engine lights. Tuned engine 2 weeks ago, but problem still persists. Where do I start and what equipment do I need. I am a professional diesel tech, but not so much with gas.
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The air bag lite is flashing 3-3 when you start up the truck. After several 33 codes it stays on constantly. I look up on internet and 33 is "passenger air bag open circuit". Pulled the glove box door and disconnected the wires and wiggled and reattached, still have code.
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