Suburban :: 1999 - Oil Tank In Radiator Leaking?
Mar 9, 2014
I have a 1999 suburban I got about 8 months ago when i got it it had a miss #6 plug porcelain was gone around electroid, mis fire returned to #6 agin about 2 months ago changed #6 it was gone this time porcelain was just cracked, now I just noticed oil in coolant I drained oil n didn't see any water in it.. Oil tank in radiator leaking? What else could cause this? By the way it hasnt over heated.. temp does fluctuate between 160-210 . What made me notice it was cap was leaking coolant changed cap gonna look at it tomorrow again.
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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The truck we have is a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, 2-Wheel Drive with a 350 vortec engine. We replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets with no leaks for about a week and several hundred miles then it started leaking oil and then antifreeze after that.
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Gas leaking near tank 99 1.8t
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I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
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My transmission cooling line is leaking. It leaks where it connects to the radiator. Im not sure how I go about removing the connection from the radiator. It is tough to tell from the rust on the connection weather or not I can use a wrench on it. I have read here that there are cooling lines in this part of the radiator for the transmission. Is it serviceable or do I need a new radiator. I dont want to touch it until I know what I'm looking at.
05 F250 5.4L 4x4
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So this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
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I have a 2004 suburban with approximately 125k miles on it, it is nominally my wife's car.
Recently it seems to not be able to access the last 1/4 tank of fuel. A couple of weeks ago my wife (who likes to run it down to the dregs) got it sub 1/4 tank, and it cranked but didn't start...put in 2 gallons from a can, started right up...took it to a gas station, filled it up (less the approximate 1/4 tank of fuel).
So, fuel pump? Pickup clogged? If so, what does it take to replace/repair...
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I have a 2000 suburban and it's leaking anti freeze but not going on the ground not sure where the leaking anti freeze is going to. it started out with no heat I, with my dad replace the cabin filters and got front heat back but after awhile I lost heat only in the front I have rear heat. not sure what the problem is? I am afraid to take it to a dealer and get scammed. it's not over heating or getting hot, but in the winter when it first started it i doled hard and it sounded like something was wrong with the lifter?
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My 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 slx is overheating, probably on its last legs. First time this happened the radiator overflow tank seemed low so I topped it up with glycerol and added some leak plugger to the radiator for good measure. The car drove just fine for 20-30km then it happened again. At the same time, and I don't know if this is relevant, the windscreen defroster, which should bleed warm engine air, now only gives cold.
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I just noticed this morning that the coolant tank (close to radiator) is empty. The other coolant tank level is normal. Big surprise! I thought they are connected, and coolant can flow between them.
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1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse. 2.0L 5-speed. 195,000. When I complete my 33 mile trip home and shut off engine, I can hear air bubbling into the overflow tank from radiator. Temp gauge shows normal. Just had new water pump, thermostat, radiator flush and refill and new 16 lb radiator cap installed. Overflow tank fills up to near top (not running over) and when engine cools, the tank is back down to half way. I've checked water level in radiator when cool and it is full. Question: Is this normal? Don't think I've ever noticed or heard the bubbling sound before. The engine runs great and smoothly.
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2005 K1500LT: I've read quite a few posts about the wet carpet problem with these suburbans, but now I have to pin this down quickly. It's not from the a/c condensation because I'm not running the a/c right now and the water has seeped in again. So, scratch that one.
I first noticed it the other day after 6 days of rain (yeah...in Las Vegas). The floor was wet from the front to the rear seats on the passenger side...and the windshield was fogged on the inside when I opened the doors after it sitting for a few days nose up on my inclined driveaway. I dried it all out with a heater and fans.
Then, I took it through a local carwash to see if I could find the source of the water. There wasn't really any inside that I could find, but the upper footwell against the firewall did seem damp. Still, nothing that would be a problem. So, I parked it in my driveway nose downhill. It rained last night so I checked the carpet again this AM. It was soaked and even had a small puddle in the r.f. corner. I pulled up the carpet and am now trying to dry out the pad underneath.
I had looked as closely as possible at the firewall yesterday and couldn't see any open holes or missing grommets. The front end was repaired just before I bought it and the two cowl trim pieces on each corner below the windshield are missing...but any water coming in that area should drain down outside the interior area. I haven't found any plugged drains YET. If the windshield was replaced I guess it could be leaking, but not sure how to isolate that from the cowl to test it. The door trim/gaskets were dry on the inside so I don't think it's coming through the door seal...maybe.
So...where are the drains and any other place water could come in from a light rain coming directly down and the truck facing downward?????
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Last week during a hot/long day on the road, my engine temp gauge started fluctuating between 1/2 and almost 7/8 on the gauge. The weird thing was that it was fairly stable most of the time, but every 10 minutes or so, it would heat up, and spend bout 15 seconds at the high mark before dropping down again. It didn't seem to be related to rpm, A/C operation, or driving intensity. When I got home, and let it cool down, I checked the coolant level. I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator, but the expansion tank was nearly full. I guess the low coolant level can explain the symptoms above, but I can't figure out what is happening to the coolant.
I took the car to a mechanic and had a pressure test, which didn't show any leakage. I had a new thermostat and radiator cap installed. They flushed the system, and tested the hose between the expansion tank and radiator. After driving the car home, the coolant in the radiator had already dropped to the point where I couldn't see it, and the expansion tank was 3/4 full. Now, I am planning to keep track of the levels of both reservoirs (and refilling the radiator of course) to see if the fluid is leaking, or if it is just not returning from the expansion tank. Hopefully this bit of knowledge should locate the problem.
The successful pressure test leads me to believe that it isn't leaking externally. However, I'm wondering if there is a small enough leak that wouldn't be detected by the pressure test, but is significant enough that it would allow air in when the engine cools instead of pulling the fluid back from the expansion tank.
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Having an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
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While I was looking at my coolant level in the overflow tank yesterday I noticed pinkish coolant residue on the overflow tank cap and then looked at the radiator cap and it was covered in the same pinkish coolant residue.
2006 Cam LE 4 Cylinder, 52,000. Already done 2 coolant drain and fills--the Head bolt issue scares me.....
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Have an 02 Camry 4 cylinder. The car retains pressure overnight in the radiator - the morning after driving the release of the radiator cap produces air bubbles in the over flow tank and a noticeable hiss of air from the filler neck. Car is not running hot and no CELs. Fluid is not being pulled into the radiator from reservoir after driving due to high pressure.
Here's what I have checked so far:
Exhaust - no white smoke
Oil - Looks fine no evidence of antifreeze
Replaced radiator cap
Hoses and clamps appear to be good
No fluid leaks found
Compression - all cylinders 145 psi +/- 1 psi
Exhaust gases in radiator - no evidence, fluid remained blue after test
Bleed air from system - was hearing the "waterfall" noise from within dashboard when accelerating. Put car on ramps, took rad cap off and ran for 45 minutes. Saw lots of big air bubbles at first then bubbles stopped. The overnight pressure retention stopped for about 2 weeks / 150 miles - but now has returned.
So it seems clear that air is being pulled into the radiator from somewhere. Beginning to think I have a small head gasket leak that is not showing any other signs. Any other potential source that could cause air to be pulled into the radiator?
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2007, 4.0L, Explorer, 113,000 mi. Week ago noticed coolant expansion tank empty while hot and cold. Looked inside ex. tank and looked like it had not seen any action in a while. Looked inside radiator and coolant level was about 1 inch to 1.5 inches below bottom of rad. cap would be...approx. level with rad. seam, where black plastic top of rad. attaches to metal portion of rad. I filled expan. tank to "cold fill" line. Kept an eye on it while doing light, around town driving. The expan. tank level (cold-fill) didn't change.
Friday, my wife returned from work (30 mi., interstate drive). After being parked for 45 mins, went out to find fluid puddle at very front of car. Expansion tank was empty. Looked in radiator, and it was about one inch to inch and a half below bottom of rad cap...about level with rad seam, where the black plastic top is attached to metal. I topped off the rad. this time, along with filling expan. tank to cold-fill line. Turn car on, and after warming up coolant starting coming out from what appeared to be the seam at the top of the rad., where the black plastic portion meets the metal part of the rad.
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After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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So today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
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In my 02 Camry (2.4 Liter 4 cyl. engine), my mechanic pointed out a slight coolant leak in my radiator in a little circular area right below the cap. He said the entire radiator would have to be replaced.
I decided to continue driving and keep a close eye on the leak and the coolant level until I could leave it at the shop for the day so he could replace it. At first, I did notice a slight drip in the spot he pointed out whenever the engine was running or had been running (it didn't leak when the engine was off and was cool).
Well, this past week I've continuously been checking the leak/coolant level, but for some reason the leak has stopped. Every time I get home, I'll pop the hood with the engine still running, but the spot in which it was leaking has been bone dry. The coolant level in the reservoir has not dropped at all either (although I did notice it drop those first few days when it was still leaking).
My 1st question is why has it stopped leaking, and my 2nd question is is it safe to keep driving without getting the radiator replaced?
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