Suburban :: 1999 GMC Just Quit When Going Down Freeway
Jan 12, 2016
I have a 1999 GMC with 280,000 miles. No engine light on. I was going down the freeway and the engine light flashed 5 times and the engine quit. Left 4 ways on and the battery went dead. Towed home. Checked code and it was p0304. Because the battery was dead for a few days I don't know if it's from back then or just now with me trying to start it. The fuel presser is good and it holds presser. The engine try's to start I think. It stumbles and simi locks like it's trying to fire but not enough to keep it turning. fuse's look good, the ones I know of.
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I can drive below 40 mph and nothing, once I hit the freeway engine light turns on and gears start slipping. I erase the code and it runs fine at first this would happen once in a while but lately its every time I get on the freeway. I cant keep driving and erasing the code, Every shop says I need to replace the transmission?
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The engine of our VW Passat 2000 quit suddenly while driving home on freeway. Night. Rain. We put on the flasher lights as we were slowing while trying to move to the right lane. No shoulder as we we were on a bridge. Do not remember being rammed from behind. Had a new battery installed one month earlier after VW mechanics could find no reason for intermittent non-starting of car which we had been experiencing. They had run "fault codes".
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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I have a 99 passat 1.8t AEB. I currently have the APR 91 Octane chip. However, I now have the "new and improved" EO5 turbo, ported polished head, port matched intake and exhaust manifolds, Forge diverter valve, Apr turbo inlet, K&N drop in filter, N75 valve, ECS lightweight crank pulley.
When first getting to full throttle the car seems to sputter b4 it takes off. The other day it registered a misfire briefly on the freeway. I have some Genesis 380cc injectors on the way but there has to be a software upgrade of some kind to run smoother!
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I have a 1999 suburban I got about 8 months ago when i got it it had a miss #6 plug porcelain was gone around electroid, mis fire returned to #6 agin about 2 months ago changed #6 it was gone this time porcelain was just cracked, now I just noticed oil in coolant I drained oil n didn't see any water in it.. Oil tank in radiator leaking? What else could cause this? By the way it hasnt over heated.. temp does fluctuate between 160-210 . What made me notice it was cap was leaking coolant changed cap gonna look at it tomorrow again.
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I have a 99 Suburban 5.7L that does not like to start when outside air temperature drops in the fall. This only effects initial morning start and once started it starts and runs fine all day! If i give it a very small shot of either in crankcase vent opening in intake bonnet it starts and runs fine after that! The pump cycles and seems to be fine! Once started all is fine untill the next morning after it sets 12 hours! Could it be the AIT switch?
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As I mentioned in the title, I have a 1999 GMC Suburban with about 150000 miles. I love the car, but lately, it has been acting peculiar immediately after starting it. Whether hot or cold weather, the car will sputter, pop, backfire, buck and generally not get up and go for the first 3-5 minutes the engine is running. I can put the gas to the floor and the car continues to sputter along at about 20 mph - bugging the heck out of drivers behind me. If I do lay on the accelerator, however, the car will rev high RPMs as if it wants to go through the gears behave like it's in neutral.
After about 3 minutes of sputtering, the car will again start accelerating as if nothing is wrong. This happens every time I start it.
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My Crankshaft sensor has broken off in the hole for it and will not come out. Does the whole brass looking piece come out to be flush with the black or just the dome looking piece inside the brass. This crankshaft sensor is located at the 7 o'clock position behind the flywheel. What is the best way to remove it? 1999GMC Suburban c1500.....
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Strange thing occured this morning. My 99 Suburban 1500 2wd 130,000 miles would not start. It would turn over but it sounded as though it was starved for fuel. It eventually started but then I noticed that the word "SECURITY" was lit constant on my dash and I read up on it in my manual. If it is faulting I would like to pull the fuse, but the manual says it shares a fuse with steering. My mechanic pulled out the steering sensor about a year ago because the steering wheel would turn sharply in a curve for no reason. Do you think the reason my truck would not start is because of Passlock? I have not done a fuel pressure test and the fuel filter was replaced almost 2 years ago.
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So here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).
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I've read that a scan tool is required to bleed the ABS unit. A brake line has rusted out on the vehicle which I can replace, though not looking forward to it. The ABS unit is disabled by pulling the fuse. Do I still need to have a tech bleed the abs system? Of course I will bleed all four lines at the wheel cylinders and calipers.
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This morning everything worked on a 1999 Suburban 4x4. One hour later, my blinkers (turn signals) were not working. Flashers were.
I checked the fuse (fuse 16) for the turning signals - blown. I bought some fuses - replaced turn signal fuse. It blew immediately and then the hazards no longer worked. I replaced that fuse and the hazards lasted a few seconds.
Hazards & brake lights are on the same fuse (fuse 1) so I am left with no brake lights, hazards or turn signals - I am an accident waiting to happen!
I switched my cigarette lighter fuse for the hazards/brake light fuse - didn't start the car - and turned on the hazards. I heard the fuse blow immediately.
My husband put a new radio in last year at this time and has fog lights wired to it - but that was last year not last week...
I know trailer lights are attached to fuse 16 (turn signals). I bought this car used, but it does have a trailer hitch with wires that I have never used.
Where to even start looking for the short... a short that would cause the hazards/brake lights to short out also.
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The truck we have is a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, 2-Wheel Drive with a 350 vortec engine. We replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets with no leaks for about a week and several hundred miles then it started leaking oil and then antifreeze after that.
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Ok so this is something I can't quite wrap my head around. I have a 1999 K1500 Suburban, 5.7L. I have only owned it a few months. The thing is, shortly after I got the truck, we took it out of town, where it died after a little over an hour of driving at highway speeds. I had punched the odometer to watch the gas mileage, and we had run it about 70 miles when it died. We got it to our friend's house, where we were headed anyway, and stayed over, planning to look at it in the morning because it was later than part stores stay open in our rural area. Thing is, in the morning it fired right up. So we headed home, and once again, after about another 70 miles, it shut down and refused to crank.
This time it happened as we were coming back into town, and on a hunch I said that something must be overheating for the problem not to be present until after an hour of road time. So we pushed it a safe distance off the road, and went and grabbed something to eat. After about an hour we made it back to the truck and success! It cranked back up and we made it the rest of the way home. Since I have driven it to town and back, and to my parents a few times, but never more than thirty or forty miles away. It never hesitates to crank, and sounds ok running. Although I will say, I have not owned a truck before or a V8, but it seems to not have the power it should (my thunderbird with a 3.8L had more punch), and I did noticed both times this happened that that problem seemed more pronounced right before it died. But I don't know if I just feel that way just because I am used to driving cars, and the truck is heavier. When it dies, you hear the starter relay click, and that's it.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
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My 1999 GMC Suburban just started "catching" when accelerating uphill and going 50+ mph. Does not occur any other time.
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1999 suburban, 5.7, 140K miles. The exhaust gasket between the cats and the muffler (Y-pipe connection to intermediate pipe) keeps failing. I have tried various brands, from Dynomax to Walker. It is part #31575 and has the two holes.
History: The first time I replaced the gasket, I twisted off the studs so I replaced them with SS bolts and use never-seize to make it easy to remove next time.
The cats were replaced a year ago with a new Walker 50410 because the passenger side pipe near the manifold kept cracking and weld repaired, but eventually split open all the way to the O2 sensor 1.
A shop advised me to try using some Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer on the new gasket. I tried this and it still failed after a few months.
In my latest attempt, I stacked two gaskets and liberally applied the Permatex on all sides of both gaskets. This has survived for 6 months, but is now leaking again.
I'm starting to wonder if I have a restriction in the muffler that's causing a higher than normal pressure inside the exhaust system.
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I have a 99 Suburban k1500 that will start and stall out after a few seconds. The security light is on constantly and will not reset after trying all the procedures listed. I have even tried the resistor bypass trick using 3200 ohms as required in procedure. Light would go on and off intermittently for several months on regular pattern and would restart and run fine after setting for a few hours or overnight. Now it has been weeks after a tow home and nothing seems to reset it or work in bypassing it.
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Another problem just came up with my 1999 1500 suburban. When I press the AC button, the indicator light comes on, but no cold air.
I am searching for some schematics at the moment and thought I'd drop a post here for some expert advice.
I realized that the ac clutch does not engage at all when the button is pressed. Does this mean low refrigerant, bad relay or switches?
It all worked a few months ago, before I started fixing the random engine misfire problem. But I did not touch the AC components back then.
Also, read some info on using a scanner to find info on AC request. However, not sure if this scanner (MD9000) has that ability (it's a friend's).
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban and for some reason I've having this problem the my one brake on the passenger side won't light up when you press the brake but the other side will. And also when I apply the turning signal on the passenger side it blinks really fast and you can see the front signal flashing fast but the back does not flash at all. So for some reason the brake and signal lights don't work at all on the back passenger side. But the running lights do go...
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