Suburban :: 1999 - Exhaust Gasket Keeps Failing (Part No 31575)
Dec 17, 2015
1999 suburban, 5.7, 140K miles. The exhaust gasket between the cats and the muffler (Y-pipe connection to intermediate pipe) keeps failing. I have tried various brands, from Dynomax to Walker. It is part #31575 and has the two holes.
History: The first time I replaced the gasket, I twisted off the studs so I replaced them with SS bolts and use never-seize to make it easy to remove next time.
The cats were replaced a year ago with a new Walker 50410 because the passenger side pipe near the manifold kept cracking and weld repaired, but eventually split open all the way to the O2 sensor 1.
A shop advised me to try using some Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer on the new gasket. I tried this and it still failed after a few months.
In my latest attempt, I stacked two gaskets and liberally applied the Permatex on all sides of both gaskets. This has survived for 6 months, but is now leaking again.
I'm starting to wonder if I have a restriction in the muffler that's causing a higher than normal pressure inside the exhaust system.
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Could these Knock sensor low input codes be caused by a failing battery? My battery was dead 2 days ago. I charged it and it has been starting but today after starting a couple of times in a row these codes came up. I've never had any codes before and it was running fine. It is a 2002 Suburban with the 6.0 engine.
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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So, I just got my turbo back from my pal Ruben at SoCal Porting (does good work fast and inexpensive) and, I have a question about the exhaust housing with the EBPV.
Is there a gasket that goes between the turbine housing and the adapter that the down pipe mounts to? And, if so, what is the part number for it? If it's steel to steel cool. If not, I'd prefer to put the OEM gasket in there versus permatex or something similar.
Pic of the compressor housing with a little port work....
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I need to remove my EGR valve to clean the unit of carbon. While there I will be removing the intake elbow to check if I have the throttle plate installed on my engine. What the part number is for the gasket / o-ring that seals the elbow to the intake manifold??
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Have to do a replacement and if so.. is removed the intake the only way to get at those stubs on the ex manifolds.
I thought it was the flex-pipe.. but after listening to the sound and getting an engine code for b1 s1 the leak has to be before the o2 senor for it to pop a code..
It sounds like a standard header leak from backing out bolts or a faulty gasket leak..
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I've been getting bad gas mileage for the past two years or so. I also get a fume smell when I run the car for a while. I have strong suspicion there might be a leak in one of the exhaust gaskets.
I'll be changing the exhaust manifold gasket and both exhaust flange gaskets. I'll also be changing both O2 sensors. The car runs well and smooth. It's just those two things.
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I just purchased a 2003 F150 Supercrew 4.6 that had been wrecked, but somewhat repaired. I knew the owner said it had a blown head gasket. It has water in the oil (small amount asi it is lightly milky) and water starts dripping from the exhaust after it has run for a few minutes. I did not run it long, but throttled it up to warm the engine. It started dripping soot filled water from the exhaust connections. I bought it to put a 4bt in it anyway, but want to sell the motor with the ability to tell the buyer the skinny on it. I drove it on the trailer and off with no apparent loss of power noticeable.
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I have a 2001 echo with 140000kms on it, nothing ever has gone wrong with it. But I now have what sounds like a exhaust leak. I cant find any holes in the pipe anywhere. There is some dark residue that looks like it is coming from the exhaust manifold gasket. I replaced this but the sound continues. Do i need to get the manifold completely out of there and plane the mating surface of the manifold smooth. It looks really pitted right now?
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If the exhaust manifold gasket is broke / cracked will it making a ticking sound?
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2001 Oldsmobile Alero, 4cyl, purchased in March with around 150k miles.About a month and a half ago I topped off the coolant. 2-3 weeks ago I noticed the exhaust was intermittently throwing off white smoke. Not thick, opaque plumes or anything, but more like how your exhaust might look on a cold day. Being May though, I knew the temperature was not responsible.
This white smoke would occur intermittently and usually stop after driving for a a little bit. Since the white smoke was not constant and the coolant levels seemed to be okay I figured maybe it was something with the EVAP system or the fuel mixture. On a hunch and as a matter of maintenance I put in new Oxygen sensors a few days ago. The next day my coolant light went off again. Since then I've put radiator stop-leak in the coolant and some STP "gasket rejuvenator" in the oil.
My theory: if the head gasket is indeed cracked, it's a very small crack--small enough so that after the engine warms up a bit the gasket expands essentially sealing the crack. This would explain the intermittent nature of the white smoke and and slowness of coolant leak. Are there any other tell-tale signs I should look for with a bad gasket, if this indeed that case? I saw in the store some stuff similar to stop-leak specifically designed for sealing head gaskets that involved draining the radiator, dumping this stuff in and running the engine for a bit, draining it out, and letting the car sit for a day before putting new coolant in. If the head gasket is the issue would the combination of stop leak.
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I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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