Suburban :: 1999 - AC Running Too Cold And Freezing Up The Evaporator
Jul 18, 2012
So here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 06 expedition limited and have been having a ac problem for some while now.. Around town both front and rear ac work and blow cold air just fine. While on the hwy 20-30 miles on road outside temp 90+,ac starts to fade, on high you can barely feel it coming out of the vents but it's still loud... Evaporator is freezing up..after a hour plus of hwy driving the rear will slowly fade away also..I can turn off the ac off and around 5 minutes turn it back on and the ac will work good for around 15 or so minutes before fading away again. Had the ac checked out,no leaks,not low on freon. Suggested the front expansion valve be changed..tried that and still same problem..temp monitored from the vent gets as low as 28-30 degree F before fading away?
View 10 Replies
The A/C on my 2012 Escape keeps freezing up. Happens mostly on highway and humid days. It's been to the dealership and had literally everything except the hoses/lines replaced.
The final paperwork from Ford said to run it only on the recirculate setting when running the a/c. This works but I really would prefer the fresh air setting.
I feel there is a problem with the system but maybe it's a design flaw instead of an equipment malfunction? Humid and warm weather.
View 10 Replies
Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
View 6 Replies
I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
View 2 Replies
Well I just set the timing on my rebuilt chevy 5.7 1999 suburban. It still runs sluggish when I accelerate and idles nice when it'd parked. I rebuilt the whole part part of engine. This is what I did notice when I cleaned under the lower intake manifold where the fuel injectors plug in. Here is a attached picture.
View 1 Replies
'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
View 14 Replies
Another problem just came up with my 1999 1500 suburban. When I press the AC button, the indicator light comes on, but no cold air.
I am searching for some schematics at the moment and thought I'd drop a post here for some expert advice.
I realized that the ac clutch does not engage at all when the button is pressed. Does this mean low refrigerant, bad relay or switches?
It all worked a few months ago, before I started fixing the random engine misfire problem. But I did not touch the AC components back then.
Also, read some info on using a scanner to find info on AC request. However, not sure if this scanner (MD9000) has that ability (it's a friend's).
View 12 Replies
I just had a new evaporator installed in our 03 Gx 470, and now it is making a gurgling, bubbling type sound while the air conditioner runs, it almost sounds like air is in the system.
View 2 Replies
My a/c was blowing but the air wasn't cold. No freon, so the dealer loaded up with freon containing a tracer. After a week, the tracer is coming out of the evaporator drain only, which implicates the evaporator as the source of the leak.
I just hit 150K miles and was extolling my repair free existence, when I had to do the front struts, brakes, and new tires (again); followed by this. Can't find a reference to evaporator leaks anywhere (a lot of mold maybe, but nothing requiring replacement. Did my luck just run out, or is this more common than I think?
View 12 Replies
Its just around freezing, and damp in Ontario and suddenly, in the mornings my Accord won't start. The battery is fairly new, the engine cranks and seems to almost catch but never quite. Yesterday, i came home at lunch and it started right up (though i didn't drive it), then this morning it wouldn't start, and it still won't. The fuel pump comes on when you turn the key to II.
I had the main relay problem on an older Accord but that doesn't seem to be the case for the 98 to 02 models. It seems like the most common problems are with the ignition switch (recall...but it causes random stalling while driving). The other common one is with the coil pack/ igniter. I'm not sure how to really check these, other than by replacing them. I haven't checked for spark yet but i am about to. How to measure the resistance of the coil (and what it should be?). What about the wires?
Is there an easy to access fuel filter on this car and if so, where is it?
View 14 Replies
This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
View 6 Replies
I have an 07 SE (manual transmission). In cold climates has noticed a noise at startup on a cold engine when the temperature is below freezing (colder than -5C or so)?
The engine has to be cold (like sat overnight) and the outside temp has to be cold. Then at start when I turn the key, the engine starts fine, but as I release the key from the start to the run position I hear what sounds like the starter motor make a noise (short zipping sound).
At first I wondered if it might be slow to disengage, but if that shouldn't make a noise because the gears should be meshed ok? There is no noise with a warm engine, or with a cold engine on a mild day.
View 14 Replies
My Forester blows freezing cold air sitting in the driveway idling or at a stop light. As soon as you get out on the highway, it blows about 10-15 seconds of cold air and then 10-15 second of warm air. On a really hot day it is borderline uncomfortable. Already had the freon checked and it is fine. What this could be? I've searched all over the internet for people having a similar problem, but everyone else who has intermittent A/C has like ten minutes of cold and then it blows warm until they stop.
View 11 Replies
Pressure tested the system and found fluid running off lower hose where it connects to the water pump. I'm guessing replacement is a difficult job.
View 2 Replies
My '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
View 8 Replies
Started with the p0410 trouble code. Pump was seized, so replaced pump along with the check valve and hoses. Ran fine for about a day, then noticed pump was running when I passed by the vehicle. Unplugged it, plugged back in, and all seemed to be fixed. Now the check engine light back on, and again the pump stays running- vehicle turned off and key removed from ignition. Have to go borrow a code tester again, but what is causing the pump to stay running? I don't want this one to burn up. I need to get it smogged for my reg renewal asap before I get penalized for it being late. The guy who replaced the pump and did the unplugging thing just wants to reset the codes and try again. I'm thinking there is a more logical reason or a step he neglected to do when replacing the pump.
99 suburban LS 5.7l V8
View 3 Replies
My problem is that I had to replace the hose to and from the compressor, it had a bad Schroeder valve and was leaking. Now only the front A/C gets cold, and I am wondering if there are 2 orifices, one in each line. I have only found one in the front A/C, and the parts store said there was only one.
View 3 Replies
I have an '05 Suburban with starting issues. When it's cold out (below 40 degrees) and you turn the key, all accessories come on but truck will not crank. It then seems like the power just cuts off.......dash lights go out but gauges are fixed in place and a couple of seconds later, I hear a strange buzzing noise from the dash area behind the radio and the gauges will then go to power off position. Then if I try to start it, there is nothing, no lights on dash, no starter engaging, no clicking of the relays, nothing. I tried, on a hunch to disconnect the ground lead from the battery. Had it off for 10 minutes or so, put the cable back on, tightened it down (wasn't loose to begin with) and it started right up first try in 20 degree weather. I had previously had the battery and alt checked and both were good.
View 3 Replies
Replacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
View 6 Replies
I have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
View 6 Replies
