Suburban :: 1998 Silverado 4x4 - Driver Side Air Bag Blown Out?
Feb 6, 2012
I had a slight head butting contest with a deer. My driver side AIR BAG BLEW OUT. I want to replace the air bag. ( I live in N.C. air bags are NOT required) so I don't care if it is functional. I just want it there un-blown, for looks. I've been told that a special tool is required to remove the old one ( and the one in a salvage truck I've located). What tool I need? Or what it might be called or where I can get one????
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The speaker in my drivers door is blown or there's a wiring issue I haven't taken off the card yet to inspect it. I have two stock speakers from a buddies car that only have 8k and two years on them. My question is should I stick with stock ones since I plan on sticking with the stock head unit, or should I upgrade? What speakers that work well with the stock system?
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So I just got my 04.5 GLI chipped with GIAC 93 octane program two days ago. Obviously I've been driving it reasonably hard because I'm pumped on the chip. I noticed today as I sat at a light a very small bit of white smoke billowed out from the driver's side of the engine (looked like it was pretty far to the side). It stopped for a second and then a little bit more came out. I pulled over as soon as the light turned green and looked around with a flashlight to see if I could spot any more smoke, but couldn't.
The car has 120,000 KMs, catless dp, and an aftermarket exhaust. It was chipped in 2011, but went into limp mode, the owner then traded it in and I got it in limp mode. (long story short they reflashed and replaced several parts and got it back to 10psi, and I then rechipped 2 days ago). So the car hasn't seen too much chipped use I'm assuming. The boost holds strong at about 17lbs (unless it's low rpms in 5th or 6th, and it kinda bounces around until higher rpms and then holds steady).
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Ok, so I have a 1992 GMC Suburban with a 350 TBI with a full dual exhaust and long pipe headers. The problem I'm having is that there is a tapping noise that comes from the driver's side of the engine when you push the gas pedal down. It only makes the noise when you push the pedal down more than about a quarter of an inch. I have tested it down hill with the transmission out of overdrive and the rpms up and there is no tapping. I'm thinking it might be pre-ignition in one of the cylinders but how to test for it other than just disconnecting plug wires one at a time until it stops. Much more I don't know what would be causing it to happen if that is the problem.
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Truck was sitting for a month, now drivers side power window has quit working. tried switching circuit breaker. can hear clicking sound in switch and lights dim but the window will not roll down. All other electrical is working fine.
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I am having the headlight problem on my 2006 prius (and have seen thousands of posts about it). The drivers side goes in and out and has done so for 6 months. But now the passenger side is doing the same and the 12 volt outlet fuse has blown. There are 133000 miles on it (nothing done to the vehicle except oil changes and new tires) Replacement bulbs from eBay are on the way. I have replaced the fuse and its ok now. I don't know if they are unrelated or if this a battery issue.
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I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
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Picked up my new ride yesterday, 2012 F-150 STX tuxedo black, supercab
4x4, 3.55 e-locker, 5.0l. It is one nice ride but it already has a blown speaker rear drivers side which is frustrating, I see this is a common issue with these trucks. Just hope it is not a recurring thing. But still a great truck.
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My fuse keeps getting blown, mechanically and emotionally. My 91 gmc suburban blows the a/c fuse every time i slide the a/c switch to any position. when the fuse goes my emergency brake light turns on and my speedometer stops working. one weird note, my engine seems to run very smooth after the fuse goes, to the point that im not even sure its running but it is. So my question is, where should i start looking to fix the problem? It's too hot/cold in here!"
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I am driving along on Interstate 26, smooth road, no weather going on, clear night, about 7:30 pm, and the rear window on the driver's side just exploded.
Oblong hole in window, rest like a spider web. All fell out as I drove home.
Nothing hit it, had not been raised or lowered for hours, there is NO reason that I know for it to have happened. Bought car in March, 2012. 12,000 miles on it. NO other damage to car, inside or out.
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Ok I got this truck from my mother-in-law for free with a blown head gasket cylinder 6 driver side. I did the replacement had the heads machined put it all back together by the book. Now I can't get it to fire on all 6 cylinders only 5 I think. Thought maybe bad gas (it sat since late November) put 5 gallons (over double the gas) fresh gas and half a bottle of b-12 chem tool. Dubble checked all plugs wires connections (coils plugs wires all new). I drove for about 10 miles oil pressure and temperature stayed perfect but no change in running truck shakes a lot and no real power. Don't sputter or backfire no engine codes other than imcr bank 2 open. Engine is 4.2l v-6 170k miles.
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I have a 1995 Chevy k1500 Silverado Z71, I am having problems with my tail lights where when my headlights are on and I hit the breaks the driver side tail light completely turns off, if I use the left blinker it blinks very fast up till I hit the breaks. When my headlights are off they still don't work properly but legal enough, the left blinker blinks in between fast and slow and when I use the brakes the left side works but very dim, the wiring is all original never tampered with, all I did was put aftermarket tail light covers on it which shouldn't affect anything. The problem usually comes and goes but this last time it lasted for 2 months and now everything works perfect, the problem will be back and I'm afraid I'll run out of luck and a cop will finally notice it.
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This morning everything worked on a 1999 Suburban 4x4. One hour later, my blinkers (turn signals) were not working. Flashers were.
I checked the fuse (fuse 16) for the turning signals - blown. I bought some fuses - replaced turn signal fuse. It blew immediately and then the hazards no longer worked. I replaced that fuse and the hazards lasted a few seconds.
Hazards & brake lights are on the same fuse (fuse 1) so I am left with no brake lights, hazards or turn signals - I am an accident waiting to happen!
I switched my cigarette lighter fuse for the hazards/brake light fuse - didn't start the car - and turned on the hazards. I heard the fuse blow immediately.
My husband put a new radio in last year at this time and has fog lights wired to it - but that was last year not last week...
I know trailer lights are attached to fuse 16 (turn signals). I bought this car used, but it does have a trailer hitch with wires that I have never used.
Where to even start looking for the short... a short that would cause the hazards/brake lights to short out also.
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My 04 Chevy suburban blows cold for about 15 minutes then turns hot...sometimes it will turn back cold, but not lately
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I have an old 98 Lesabre, and it runs and drives great. When I first got it I had to do the Vacuum line mod on the programmer to get the HVAC to blow out the face vents. That was the best $1.60 and 30 min I spent on a car
That mod still works and was done about 1.5 years ago, the ENTIRE time i have owned the car the temp blinks when I start the car, but the HVAC has always worked fine so I paid no attention to it. That is until 3 weeks ago when I had to replace my intake manifold. I disconnected the battery without turning the system to "off". I have been doing a bunch of reading online, and it seems I may have thrown the system's sync off by doing this.
Right now my problem is this, colder air coming from the pass side then the driver’s side. When I start the car it will seem synched for a few seconds, then it will start blinking and both vents will go FULL COLD, eventually it brings the temp back up the d-side gets hotter than the p-side. I have done the following:
- gone through AT LEAST 50 on/off cycles
- Removed the 9c fuse to try to reset
- Pulled down the glove box door and watched both the upper and lower blend doors go through there whole range of movement (which they do)
- Tried to re-sync by pushing the temp full hot, then full cold a few times in a row.
Besides getting this scanned by a tech 2, which is my last resort, is there anything else I can do?
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My 2009 silverado ltz is haveing heating issues. when you first start truck all work fine. After a couple min the drivers side vents loose heat and blows cold air. the heat on the pass side works fine. then the vent will change to defrost even though the display still shows its on vent. the only way to get it back is to mess with the vent control. then it will last about a min then back to defrost. at this point i just turn it off. I have already replaced the control panel to no avail ...
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Today my driver side seat belt got locked in the retracted position for no reason. I drove the truck to work, no issues with the seat belt, but when I got in to go get some lunch, I went to put the belt on and it moves about 2-3 inches out of the retractor and locks.
The other issue I'm having, is that I can't get the retractor cover off to see if theres something inside locking the belt or if it is going to need to be replaced.
How to get the cover off and if possible, fix the belt without replacing it.
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I have a 98 bravada that is leaking oil from drivers side of engine just above u joints on front driveshaft. pours out on start then stops. does again on stop.what is there to cause?
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I have a 98 explorer, I try to unlock the drivers door with the key and I can turn it to lock the door but it will not unlock it however I can go as far as I can and unlock all the doors, now the strange part (to me anyway) I can not unlock the door from the inside either by using the power lock or by trying to unlock it manually....
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I've been having to add a quart of oil between every 3,000 mile oil change. This is a used 2000 2.5L motor now with about 150,000 miles on it and 317,000 on my truck. I notice the oil is coming from somewhere on the side maybe in a few places. I think the oil plug is dripping a little. I'm going to try an OEM Ford plug because I've changed them several times with aftermarket plugs and they never seal right. I thought it might be the oil pan gasket but it doesn't really look wet around the flange all the way around.
Then I checked higher up thinking it maybe the valve cover gasket which has been replaced and it's drive around the cover. I noticed under the power steering pump bracket it's all wet with oil. It's not the power steering, I've never had to add to it. It appears to be in the middle under the intake. I didn't see anything from the pressure switch. It looks like it's mostly around the pcv valve box. Is there a gasket that leaks there? Or anywhere else that is common to leak? I fixed my transmission pan gasket leak which cleared up some of the mess on the bottom. How hard is it to change that pcv valve box? They call it a crankcase vapor separator where the pcv valve goes.
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I recently bought an '98 Oldsmobile Intrigue, I do not know much of anything more than how to check fluids and were to put them when low, So here's the issues that I have come across.
Roughish idle. when stopped and in drive it has a rough idle but not bad yet.
Driver Side windows do not go up or down. The driver window is stuck with a 1/4 inch gap I keep weather proof tape over it. the back window slides up and down but not with the button also held up by tape. I can hear the motor running when I press the button but no luck.
A/C motor works but no air blows out of the vents.
Driver side back up lights don't work and Driver side front blinker or parking light does not work.
Security light recently come on and can't get it to go off whenever the car is started and it is a steady light no flash or blink.
I already know there is a small leak in the radiator and even with the issues it has I love the lil car and want to fix it up to proper working order. So, what I can possibly do?
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