Suburban :: 1997 - Won't Start After Some Rest
Aug 15, 2012
I have a 1997 suburban vortek 5.7 with 200k miles. Went on vacation for a week and when I got back it wouldn't start. Cranks strong, good spark at spark plug and coil wire. I can hear fuel pump humming when key is turned on. Fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago (4th time in 6 years) with GM OEM pump. New plug wires. Engine will almost start and then goes back to just spinning. I sprayed starter fluid (generously) in the air intake while cranking it and it didn't fire at all (despite good spark). I thought that would be a good test to see if it was getting fuel. Strong smell of raw gas after attempting to start it. I'm going to download trouble codes this weekend....
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My 97 Suburban died and will not start. Things I have done:
1 Changed fuel filter
2 Changed fuel pump twice
3 Checked fuel pressure 60psi
4 Changed plugs and wires
5 Changed rotor and cap
6 jumped switch to make sure pump runs
The Suburban will start only if I pour gas in the throttle body and will idle as long as I continue to pour gas in but will die when I quit.
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My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
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I've got a Chevy Malibu with roughly 120K miles on it. It runs relatively well - when it starts - which is why I'm here, obviously. The battery is brand new with all the connections seeming to be great, so I doubt it's an electrical issue in that regard.
Furthermore, in cases where the car doesn't start, almost always it's on an incline where the gas tank is lower than the rest of the vehicle.
When it's either level or higher than the rest, it seems to start up fine, which has led me to wonder if it's something to do with the fuel intake (note that the car doesn't stall at all - it simply won't start in the adverse conditions I said here).
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2002 Excursion, 7.3L 375,xxx miles ... As the weather is cooling off, my excursion has a starting problem for a few years.
Replaced all the glow plugs last year. We (my brothers and I) thought it was injectors, but in the summer time or if block heater is plugged in, she starts normally and idles smoothly. And no smoke and runs fine once she warms up.
When cold, it acts like 1 or 2 injectors are not firing. Have run all kinds of cleaners through the oil and fuel.....
Don't want to swap injectors just to swap parts. Would like to diagnose problem....
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First i know this subject has been covered, but i am at a loss. I have a 1997 burb 2wd that started the shake right after i bought it. it shake from around 65 to just under 75. Here is the list of items I have done by reading the forums. I am on 2nd set of tires both different brands. Last set has been road force balanced new inner and outer tie rods new shocks new rear trans mount new front and rear u joints had drive shaft rebalanced new front wheel bearings this is also the other stuff that has been done in last 6 months new a/c compressor and lines new alternator new radiator new plugs , cap, rotor, wires. It is hard for me to tell where the shake is coming from as sometimes it fells like the whole truck and other times just the front end. at this speed i also have put the truck in neutral and let it idle down and still nothing.
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Where the factory amplifier can be found in a 1997 Chevy Suburban LT? MY Suburban still has the original radio with tape deck and with the 1-disc CD player under the A/C controls. I have already replaced all 6 old '97 speakers with new ones, and I would also like to install a better aftermarket amp with a sub woofer.I looked inside the rear quarter panels, under all seats, underneath the middle console.
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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My '97 Chevy Suburban diesel dies at random times. Nothing seems to trigger it; it usually happens when I'm just driving along, minding my own business; not accelerating or decelerating, turning, stopping, etc. Has happened with the fuel tank at every level: full, half full and quarter tank. When it dies, the dashboard lights do NOT come on. When I turn the key "off" and back "on", the lights come on and the engine will crank fine, but won't start. Ten minutes later, it starts and everything is fine. It may not do it again for weeks, or it may do it again in 10 minutes.
This last time, the fuel tank was fairly low -- below a quarter tank -- and it seems to "buck" or "hesitate a little just before it died the first time. The dealer replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the fuel injector pump. When it started doing it again, they ran every diagnostic test they had and could find nothing wrong. Ran fine for a few weeks, then quit three times in 30 minutes. It's back there now.
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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I have a 99 Suburban 5.7L that does not like to start when outside air temperature drops in the fall. This only effects initial morning start and once started it starts and runs fine all day! If i give it a very small shot of either in crankcase vent opening in intake bonnet it starts and runs fine after that! The pump cycles and seems to be fine! Once started all is fine untill the next morning after it sets 12 hours! Could it be the AIT switch?
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I have an '05 Suburban with starting issues. When it's cold out (below 40 degrees) and you turn the key, all accessories come on but truck will not crank. It then seems like the power just cuts off.......dash lights go out but gauges are fixed in place and a couple of seconds later, I hear a strange buzzing noise from the dash area behind the radio and the gauges will then go to power off position. Then if I try to start it, there is nothing, no lights on dash, no starter engaging, no clicking of the relays, nothing. I tried, on a hunch to disconnect the ground lead from the battery. Had it off for 10 minutes or so, put the cable back on, tightened it down (wasn't loose to begin with) and it started right up first try in 20 degree weather. I had previously had the battery and alt checked and both were good.
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Strange thing occured this morning. My 99 Suburban 1500 2wd 130,000 miles would not start. It would turn over but it sounded as though it was starved for fuel. It eventually started but then I noticed that the word "SECURITY" was lit constant on my dash and I read up on it in my manual. If it is faulting I would like to pull the fuse, but the manual says it shares a fuse with steering. My mechanic pulled out the steering sensor about a year ago because the steering wheel would turn sharply in a curve for no reason. Do you think the reason my truck would not start is because of Passlock? I have not done a fuel pressure test and the fuel filter was replaced almost 2 years ago.
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99 1500 2wd 5.7 burb
Out of the blue I started old red up yesterday (after charging the dead battery) and got a huge cloud of white smoke. Smells of coolant so Im thinking oh great a head gasket. The thing is, I can see no trace of coolant in oil or vice versa. I started it up with radiator cap off, while cranking I got a little fluid spit out the neck but once it started it was not gushing or bubbling at all.
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I have been checking on the automotive forums for Suburban no start problems and have tried some of the solutions, but my vehicle still doesn't start. Here is where I'm at: I have spark, fuel pressure at the throttle body, the fuel pump in the tank is working, new cap, rotor, coil, module, fuel filter, and ECM.
I just ran the truck 2 days ago for 10 minutes to flush the radiator, turned it off to install a new t/stat, then it wouldn't start again. I have tried starting fluid, gasoline, it cranks but no fire, not even a sputter. The pump has been replaced probably 9 years ago. The only other thing not replaced is the pickup coil in the distributor, although the distributor was rebuilt about 10 to 12 years ago. This vehicle just sits until needed, can't afford to drive it daily. The truck is a 1987 Suburban 1/2 ton 350K engine, automatic, 4wd.
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My Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."
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I have a 99 Suburban k1500 that will start and stall out after a few seconds. The security light is on constantly and will not reset after trying all the procedures listed. I have even tried the resistor bypass trick using 3200 ohms as required in procedure. Light would go on and off intermittently for several months on regular pattern and would restart and run fine after setting for a few hours or overnight. Now it has been weeks after a tow home and nothing seems to reset it or work in bypassing it.
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I am working on a99 2500 4x4. 7.4 Replaced 230,000 engine with 90,000 engine.I had to fix a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sensor. Replaced it and delivered it.
Ran great Gal was driving at 50mph. Engine died and wouldn't start. She fried starter trying. Replaced starter, has no codes. 59-60 lbs fuel pressure with key on then holds 50 lbs. 60 lbs while cranking. Has spark at plug. NO security light staying lit or flashing. flashes then goes out. Smell of unburnt fuel is strong. Also no oil pressure at gauge when cranking and her key fob doesn't work.
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1999 gmc suburban shut off no start next morning will crank then act's like it loads (cranks hard for a second then back to normal) has good spark has a fuel vapor out of exhaust but will not fire.
What I've checked
Spark on every plug. Good and new
When I pulled the plugs they were wet with gas
Distributor turns new cap & rotor
Checked time manually (TDC looked at distributor rotor Pointing cylinder at # 1 cylinder
Will check fuel pressure when I get home
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97 Suburban 5.7. When starting, engine turns over normally, but every 2 seconds or so the motor will completely and suddenly stop rotating for a split second, then start cranking again. It is as if every few seconds there is a buildup of compression in a cylinder that won't allow it to turn over. It will eventually start and run normally, but i believe this has contributed to going through 3 starters within 20k miles. The starters are free (warranty) but getting tired of putting them in.
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