Suburban :: 1997 - Shakes Vigorously At 65 - 75?
Mar 24, 2012
First i know this subject has been covered, but i am at a loss. I have a 1997 burb 2wd that started the shake right after i bought it. it shake from around 65 to just under 75. Here is the list of items I have done by reading the forums. I am on 2nd set of tires both different brands. Last set has been road force balanced new inner and outer tie rods new shocks new rear trans mount new front and rear u joints had drive shaft rebalanced new front wheel bearings this is also the other stuff that has been done in last 6 months new a/c compressor and lines new alternator new radiator new plugs , cap, rotor, wires. It is hard for me to tell where the shake is coming from as sometimes it fells like the whole truck and other times just the front end. at this speed i also have put the truck in neutral and let it idle down and still nothing.
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My 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
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I have a 1997 suburban vortek 5.7 with 200k miles. Went on vacation for a week and when I got back it wouldn't start. Cranks strong, good spark at spark plug and coil wire. I can hear fuel pump humming when key is turned on. Fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago (4th time in 6 years) with GM OEM pump. New plug wires. Engine will almost start and then goes back to just spinning. I sprayed starter fluid (generously) in the air intake while cranking it and it didn't fire at all (despite good spark). I thought that would be a good test to see if it was getting fuel. Strong smell of raw gas after attempting to start it. I'm going to download trouble codes this weekend....
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Where the factory amplifier can be found in a 1997 Chevy Suburban LT? MY Suburban still has the original radio with tape deck and with the 1-disc CD player under the A/C controls. I have already replaced all 6 old '97 speakers with new ones, and I would also like to install a better aftermarket amp with a sub woofer.I looked inside the rear quarter panels, under all seats, underneath the middle console.
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My 97 Suburban died and will not start. Things I have done:
1 Changed fuel filter
2 Changed fuel pump twice
3 Checked fuel pressure 60psi
4 Changed plugs and wires
5 Changed rotor and cap
6 jumped switch to make sure pump runs
The Suburban will start only if I pour gas in the throttle body and will idle as long as I continue to pour gas in but will die when I quit.
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I recently replaced the whole rack and pinon on my 1997 Honda crv and i had to drop the muffler and drive axle as well as drop the engine about 2 in"So i supported the the engine with a jack and wooden blocks then i remove the bolts that hold the engine mounts and drop the engine when i replaced the bolts and torqued then to 100ft lbs the car shakes when in reverse HOWEVER WHEN I PLACE A LONG SCREW DRIVER ON THE MOUNTING FLANGE (where the bolt of the motor mount comes through and into the motor mount) THE NOISE STOPS. AS SOON AS I REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVE THE NOISE COMES BACK. the motor mount doesn't look like its in bad condition
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My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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My '97 Chevy Suburban diesel dies at random times. Nothing seems to trigger it; it usually happens when I'm just driving along, minding my own business; not accelerating or decelerating, turning, stopping, etc. Has happened with the fuel tank at every level: full, half full and quarter tank. When it dies, the dashboard lights do NOT come on. When I turn the key "off" and back "on", the lights come on and the engine will crank fine, but won't start. Ten minutes later, it starts and everything is fine. It may not do it again for weeks, or it may do it again in 10 minutes.
This last time, the fuel tank was fairly low -- below a quarter tank -- and it seems to "buck" or "hesitate a little just before it died the first time. The dealer replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the fuel injector pump. When it started doing it again, they ran every diagnostic test they had and could find nothing wrong. Ran fine for a few weeks, then quit three times in 30 minutes. It's back there now.
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I have a K2500 suburban that has a rather aggressive/violent "vertical" shake when braking above 30mph... I bought it about 6 months ago and was told it just had a full brake job all around(receipts provided). The shake has been off and on, mostly reserved to highway speeds, however recently it has been constant at any speed above 30mph... Thinking it may be the rotors. I pulled the wheels off and even though everything looked brand new (as described) I replaced the rotors and put on new pads... did not fix the shake... and I had the old rotors mic'd and they came back good as new with zero need to turn/resurface.
I was told it may be the ABS, So I pulled the fuse... and it didn't fix the issue also I have no light on the dash
I was told it may be a flat spot on the rear drums, so I replaced the rear drums and it didn't fix the problem... the shoes looked brand new and had just as much pad left as the set i was replacing them with, so I left them alone.
I had happened to have new tires put on it, and they advised my pitman arm and idler arm were shot and that they couldn't do an alignment, so I replaced the pitman and idler and brought it back to be aligned which they did... this did not resolve any issues...
I spoke with the previous owner and he said he had the same issues and couldnt figure it.. he said his mechanic replaced the wheel bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, brake lines, ball joints(all receipts provided, and all these parts look brand new)...
The shake is very aggressive it makes the dash jump up and down and vibrates the hood to the point where it looks like it will rattle off.. the pedal doesn't pulse and the steering wheel aside from vibrating up and down doesn't pull or shake one way or the other... truck doesn't pull when braking or during this shake... and the second you let off the brake the shaking stops... and only ever shakes when you hit the brakes...it rides as smooth as can be when not braking...
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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I have a 1997 F-150 4.6 Liter 2WD ATIt rides and brakes smoothly when not running the A/C. When I switch on the A/C it still rides and runs smoothly and still brakes smoothly at first. After a few minutes, when I brake, the front end shakes slightly. While not braking it's still fine.The problem doesn't go away immediately when I switch of the A/C, but does eventually. However, on rare occasion the front end will start shaking like I have a square tire, even when not braking. This never occurs when I'm not running the A/C. Pads and rotors seem fine, tires are good, on visual inspection. A/C blows cold and the clutch seems to engage/disengage properly.
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Truck seems to have a rough idle not bad I had kid in back seat and ran into store came out and he asked why my truck was shaking. Plugs been changed dunno anything else I could do.
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I have a 1997 explorer xlt 2 wheel drive 4 door. It's got 189,000 miles on it. It's shakes a lot on idle when put in drive. I've replaced a lot of stuff. I've also lost a lot of power. I can put the gas pedal to the floor and still not get enough power. The shaking feels like it's about the stall out but it doesn't. Oh and there a rear main leak if that works.
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Its not the tires/wheels. I just had them balanced. It only shakes when hard accelerating. If I am easy on it, then smooth as can be. It gets worse with the RPM of the engine. I am thinking its in the tranny.
It still shifts smooth and I have been pulling 17 mpg on the interstate with it. So I know its acting correctly? Could I have blown something in the trans or ballooned the torque converter?
It just started the other day, I drove about 350 miles on vacation and noticed it when I went to come home. Like i said it only shakes when you lay in to the throttle, and it gets kinda violent.
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I've owned the truck for 8 months, did a fair bit of maintenance in the first two months (plugs, tranny fluid change, maf cleaned, o2s replaced), 320,000km runs very well, no codes.
When the truck is in gear and I put my foot on the brake after a second or so idling, the engine shakes. Releasing the brake, the shake stops, but it does it every time. Also, the belt or one of the pulleys will squeak a bit at the same time, but only idling with the brake on.
It doesn't seem like it is a serious problem, but what and why? My instincts are telling me it may be transmission related.
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Every time i run 50 miles per hour i feel shaking on my steering wheel..i did balance on my tire and alignment..still the same..
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Have an 01 f250 superduty with a 5.4 triton ... Plugs done 1500 miles ago along with boots just tested and put in 4 new coils.
I have developed a miss and i feel like I am parts chasing. The miss only shakes the cab when it goes to the lowest rpm for that gear. It is very subtle when it is in idle.
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2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
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For over a year, the truck took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start, but always started. This morning it started, but shakes, coughs, and vibrates like hell. It revs up but still sounds like its hitting only on a few. replaced ciols many times over the years, but this sounds different.
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I've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
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