Suburban :: 1997 - Only Start If Pour Gas In Throttle Body
Jan 4, 2012
My 97 Suburban died and will not start. Things I have done:
1 Changed fuel filter
2 Changed fuel pump twice
3 Checked fuel pressure 60psi
4 Changed plugs and wires
5 Changed rotor and cap
6 jumped switch to make sure pump runs
The Suburban will start only if I pour gas in the throttle body and will idle as long as I continue to pour gas in but will die when I quit.
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I need to clean my throttle body on my '97 F-150 and it has a label saying not to clean directly. Is it still safe to use TB cleaner and to go ahead and clean it? It needs done but how would I go about it.
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The Throttle Body on my 2001, 4.6 L is making a strange whirring noise, when you puy your hand on the intake pipe, you can feel a slight vibration. The Truck idles and runs okay, with no codes. Giving it a little gas and the noise goes away. The last thing I did was clean the IAC with Gum Out Carb cleaner, the second or third time I've done this over many years, with no problems. I'm a little perplexed at the cause.
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I'm usually over in the EX forum but today was working on my brothers 1998 F150 - V8 4.6L. Had the EGR code P0401 and due to FTE I found the problem took the throttle body off and found it was definitely plugged. One of the bolts was really loose and came off way to easily. Didn't realize until cleaning why... Now I drilled 8 studs out of my aluminum EX heads but this one has me pondering how I'm going to clamp this thing down and center a bit..
1st pic - ports WOW - guessing this was the problem ...
2nd pic - bigger issue ...
3rd pic - the ports cleaned up ...
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I have a throttle body noise that sounds like a warble,It is sporadic and I think it should not be their. But I have heard some other f-150s make the same noise. Is it normal or is something not right.
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97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
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My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
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I busted the cable end by not removing it properly. My question is what is the proper method of remove the cable from the throttle body? Are the cable ends replaceable? If so who has them as a google search didn't find any? I've tried to find written information but haven't any luck. bl2009
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I accidentally broke the control lever where the cruize control attaches. I've looked all over but I can't find the lever. Where I could buy just the lever? New throttle body is more than I want to spend.
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High mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
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So, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
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The rpm with the A/C on are 550 , I was told to replace Throttle body, I did, rpm continue the same,when im driving and I stop the car start vibrating, some one told me that i have to program the new throttle body , how can i do that?
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Obviously its not a good thing, but this seems a little severe for a truck that hasnt had any issues prior. The truck is a 1998 F150 4.6 and was running just fine until POP!! A puff of grey smoke coming from the throttle body and followed by (obviously) a rough idle. So basically, I know that any metal fragments were directly sucked into the intake and based on the size of the chipped area (roughly 1.5cm). I am wondering what type of internal damage this would (or already has) caused.
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The engine turns and air blows out of the throttle body. My fuel pump and TPS is good. What else could it be?
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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I went to clean my wife's throttle body out with brake cleaner and I think I sprayed too much into the throttle body now the car won't start. It makes a small clicking/grinding noise when I try to start it. What have I done?
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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I have a 1997 suburban vortek 5.7 with 200k miles. Went on vacation for a week and when I got back it wouldn't start. Cranks strong, good spark at spark plug and coil wire. I can hear fuel pump humming when key is turned on. Fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago (4th time in 6 years) with GM OEM pump. New plug wires. Engine will almost start and then goes back to just spinning. I sprayed starter fluid (generously) in the air intake while cranking it and it didn't fire at all (despite good spark). I thought that would be a good test to see if it was getting fuel. Strong smell of raw gas after attempting to start it. I'm going to download trouble codes this weekend....
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My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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So i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
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