Suburban :: 1997 Chevy LT - Where Factory Amplifier Can Be Found
Sep 7, 2007
Where the factory amplifier can be found in a 1997 Chevy Suburban LT? MY Suburban still has the original radio with tape deck and with the 1-disc CD player under the A/C controls. I have already replaced all 6 old '97 speakers with new ones, and I would also like to install a better aftermarket amp with a sub woofer.I looked inside the rear quarter panels, under all seats, underneath the middle console.
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I have been having problems with the rear heat & ac. It was blowing intermittently then we would have to tap the panel in the back right side to get it to work, it won't blow at all. Is it the blower motor?
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I have 2002 Chevy suburban. Recently, a high pitch whine has developed. When accelerating the whine intensifies. I replaced the alternator ... No change! What could it be? Speedometer cable?
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The truck we have is a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, 2-Wheel Drive with a 350 vortec engine. We replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets with no leaks for about a week and several hundred miles then it started leaking oil and then antifreeze after that.
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My husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
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I have a 2002 chevy suburban 4wd with 156000 miles.. I had tires replaced last week due to them being chopped. They caused a low humming noise between 65-70mph. That was coming from the front.Below or above this speed the sound was not noticeable. I had new Coper AT-3 tires replace all around and balanced 5 days ago. The noise has become worse and starts at 61 mph and gets louder up to 70 an with a slight vibration . I have not gone above that speed to se if the noise goes away as I feel a bit uncomfortable going any faster with this issue . The tires were balanced so was wondering if I have bad tires or if the new tires being all terrain are causing more strain on what could be a bearing. The wheel bearings are fine and the rear bearings and pinion bearing were replaced two months ago . I know all terrains will make noise but not to this extent .
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban and for some reason I've having this problem the my one brake on the passenger side won't light up when you press the brake but the other side will. And also when I apply the turning signal on the passenger side it blinks really fast and you can see the front signal flashing fast but the back does not flash at all. So for some reason the brake and signal lights don't work at all on the back passenger side. But the running lights do go...
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So yesterday my truck decided to start giving me fits right after it finally got extra cold and snowy here! I noticed early on this fall that my water pump was leaking, so I replaced it. I also found that my truck only blew hot air while in motion, and cold air while it was stopped or at idle. At this point I replaced the thermostat and housing. I originally had the stock setup with the combined thermostat and housing. The new one is and updated GM version with the separate thermostat and housing assembly. Everything seemed to be ok until yesterday morning.
This is where my problem is now. Yesterday on my way to work, the message center said my coolant was too hot. The temp gauge showed the truck at about 250 degrees. My speed was only about 45mph and it was 6 degrees outside. I ended up parking the truck and looking at it after work. I found it was still doing the exact same thing. When I investigated further, I found that the upper radiator hose was hot, while the lower one coming out of the thermostat housing was cold.
At this point I figured that I had a bad thermostat, and bought a replacement. I tested the old one on my stove top in a pan of water and found that it did actually open at about 175 degrees, so I'm not so sure it was bad now. With the new thermostat installed, the engine is no longer overheating and the temp stays around 235 while driving. However, I am back to the heater blowing cold air at idle and while stopped, and warm air while driving. In addition, the rear heater now only blows cold air, it never warms up.
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I bought a 2003 2500 4x4 suburban a couple of weeks back. The seller had purchased and installed a new module for the quadra steer system before I bought it but hadn't had it programmed yet. Not sure what's involved in programming the module - something best left to a chevy dealer? From what I understand, quadra steer is relatively rare because GM had priced it out of sight, but those who have it love it so I want to get it working (seller told me he can do a U-turn on a two-lane road + a foot or so of shoulder on each side - pretty unreal for something that size).
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1997 Olds. Bravada. 4.3L original engine. 217000 miles, maintained well (routine oil changes, fluid checks, etc)
Intermittent stalls. When stalling, voltage found to drop to 0 even though radio, headlights, and dash lights remain functional. Engine will sometimes "automatically" return to running (it doesn't turn over, just runs) and the air bag light flashes, other times it needs to be restarted. No problem restarting, but may or may not stall a few seconds later. No specific action triggers the events. On a potential side note, the rear wiper motor will spontaneously start running occasionally (once per week frequency typical).
Attempted fix: cleaned both battery contacts, removed and cleaned frame ground, removed and cleaned body ground, all done with either sand paper and/or a wire brush
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I have a 77 bronco with a 5.0 efi engine from a 97 Ford Explorer. I noticed there is oil in the cold air intake area and upper intake manifold. I was checking on things and noticed oil around the PCV valve and on the outside of the cold air intake system. Should I be concerned about this? I have done some research. I checked the PCV valve and intake manifold gasket which appear to look fine.
The PCV valve rattles and the gasket is intact. Granted there isn't a lot of oil when I looked inside the upper intake manifold but thought I should write and ask if this is a problem or not. Should I just replace them pcv valve any ways and recheck it after driving it for a few miles? The explorer did have 110K on it but when we took it apart we thought the engine looked great for how many miles it had on it. We did change out the cam and timing chain but as far as the other parts, we did not replace.
I am also getting a unusual reading to not reading with my oil gauge. When driving for a about 30 minutes or so, My oil gauge goes down to zero when I'm stopped but when I'm drive off then the pressure comes back up. When I have it in park the gauge reads fine.
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97 Aerostar 3.0. Factory A/C system staying on defrost. Going to check and replace as necessary all under hood vacuum lines as soon as it cools down. I can already see some cracks in the plastic lines.
But. Just in case, where is the actuator for the door that directs the air flow either to the dash vents or defroster vents etc? Is it the one I can see from under the hood or in some impossible location?
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Plain and simple. 97 F150 with factory radio and cd changer. Just wanna know what wire to cut on the factory harness to make the radio not dim when I turn on the headlights. Or is there more to it than that?
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I've got a 97 f150 with 4.6l and my factory tach needle hangs up. Sometimes doesn't move at all and I can tap on the tach and it will work ok. Then I check it and it is stuck in the 2000 to 3000 rpm range. Can I take it apart and clean it or won't .....
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2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat, the back window is the factory sliding window, it is leaking around the top on the drivers side, leaks bad. Question is how easy is it to remove the window and replace the seal?
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I'm really not liking my carpet after 174k miles. I wanted to replace it with a vinyl one from rockauto. I've seen some trucks that had their carpet replaced with diamond plate, 1998 F150 Supercab. Unbolting the seats & bench and removing the carpet should be no problem for me, but the fabrication of the diamond plate floor seems to be difficult.
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I have a 1997 suburban vortek 5.7 with 200k miles. Went on vacation for a week and when I got back it wouldn't start. Cranks strong, good spark at spark plug and coil wire. I can hear fuel pump humming when key is turned on. Fuel pump was replaced 2 years ago (4th time in 6 years) with GM OEM pump. New plug wires. Engine will almost start and then goes back to just spinning. I sprayed starter fluid (generously) in the air intake while cranking it and it didn't fire at all (despite good spark). I thought that would be a good test to see if it was getting fuel. Strong smell of raw gas after attempting to start it. I'm going to download trouble codes this weekend....
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First i know this subject has been covered, but i am at a loss. I have a 1997 burb 2wd that started the shake right after i bought it. it shake from around 65 to just under 75. Here is the list of items I have done by reading the forums. I am on 2nd set of tires both different brands. Last set has been road force balanced new inner and outer tie rods new shocks new rear trans mount new front and rear u joints had drive shaft rebalanced new front wheel bearings this is also the other stuff that has been done in last 6 months new a/c compressor and lines new alternator new radiator new plugs , cap, rotor, wires. It is hard for me to tell where the shake is coming from as sometimes it fells like the whole truck and other times just the front end. at this speed i also have put the truck in neutral and let it idle down and still nothing.
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I have a 1997 chevy s10. Speedometer stopped working..abs lights come on once in awhile and wont shift into other gears. I have replace speed sensor, computer, wheel sensor and ignition switch assembly.
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I have a 97 chevy s10 4.3. Did a complete new ac system installation. Install new ac pump and put oil in holes, new condensor, new accumulator, new evap core, orifice tube, ac hoses. Did a vacuum for a couple of min it went to -28 closed the manifold gauges and turned off vacuum pump..waiting 30mins it held -28. Next added freon and put about 3 cans of freon. System took freon starting cooling fine. Ran truck for about two hours then heard some noises near glove box then ac started losing its cool slowly. Did i over charge? not enough oil in compressor? Did i damage compressor? How can i check compressor before i buy another..
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I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
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